jacob's hammer

On 4/30/2016 at 7:11 PM, Soupyjones said:

I must agree with this. It is awfully intimidating trying to decide if your question is worth typing in. I do not see the value in running someone into the ground for not knowing better than to ask for help.

If you took some time to read you would understand.

it's the blight of this site. same ones always. ignore is your friend and i use it for all the self proclaimed 'curmudgeons' no matter their expertise. I'll figure out stuff on my own before i put up with that.

and then you complain when people wont answer your questions, when in fact they did, you  are just rude and ignore them. Not to mention you do not seem to help anyone yourself,  So be it.

good thing about being left handed is that you get pretty good at using both hands since most of the world is right handed. kind of like forced ambidexterity. I have two anvils that face opposite ways and only really thought about it now because of this thread. I hammer with both hands. right hand for power left hand for finesse. slowly getting better 'smithwise' with both.

like it. why does it look like 1/2"(or so)was added to bottom of leg?

ranger springs inferior? my beater truck is 90 ranger long box and i have hauled more firewood and dirt in that thing than most would dare put in a full size truck and never tweaked a spring....or even burned up a clutch for that matter. I had such a load of dirt one day that even the sidedump truck drivers in the cut gave me a 'air horn ovation'! great old truck.

look like twist tongs. if so may not have been hot enough for 'twist'. i have broke one same way.

my propane tank not done yet but i'm going with two 3/4" t burners. i think one works per 350cu/in and 20# tank is 580 cu/in i believe.

thanks for this thread!

i had been collecting materials to build the 'ray clontz grinder' shown at anvilfire but now i think i would be better off just getting the kalamazoo belt driven version without motor for $279. i prefer the belt drive idea anyway so i can put motor where i want it like underneath in a cabinet like i did with my bandsaw.

On 9/2/2015 at 11:06 AM, ThorsHammer82 said:

I have the benefit of being height gifted. At 6'5" my "Normal working height" is above the average man's. So to get the vise up to a comfortable working height, there was about 1.5" between the bottom of the shoulder, and the concrete base of my stand. 1/4" plate + pipe to make up the difference.

i have read that the hand of a tall man( 6'5" in your case)'hangs' nearly the same height as a man who is much shorter and of a man much taller. so wouldn't working height be similar?

very good video. just reading some comments on your videos it is obvious you are a big help to a lot of folks...me included. thanks

make some of jock dempsey's twist tongs. real easy and work quite well.

look nice. they rigid or do they flex?

33 minutes ago, matto said:

Jacob I will work on finding you a good hand crank blower.  Will have you vise pics today.

ah, that'd be the coolest!

i went ahead and put sheet metal sleeve inside with one inch of air space all way round and now it never gets too warm to touch. i ran it all night, and now i feel much better that the wall it penetrates will never heat up due to the forge.

i will wrap it in something the days not in use to keep cold out. the forge will be clean and cold and no risk to fire.

Yes, it has little door on it but thinking of making polystyrene cover for it when not in use since I had to go through north wall.

Hey guys, I recently finished up my side draft and it works real well. The horizontal is 12"x14" that I made from filing cabinet and the vertical is 26guage galvanized  10" duct. The horizontal penetrates through 2x4 framing with drywall on inside and vinyl siding on outside.  It's wrapped inside and out with sheet metal flashing.Li ke I said it works well and horizontal don't seem to get terribly hot and cools quickly after air blast quits, but I think as an extra precaution I would like to insulate the horizontal from the opening out past the framing and vinyl a couple inches to keep it cooler yet and wondering if others here had done anything similar. My idea before I hear from others is to make 10"x12" sheetmetal sleeve inside the horizontal with one inch air gap all around from door to couple inches outside the building. Like to hear what you all think. Thanks in advance.

i'd a sent him away.

scary world.

it's all in good taste, though

3 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

Just google "Donner Party" for the skinny

is it ok to laugh at this?

Think 30 gallon drums have 18" diams.

could heat em up at the handles and unroll to make longer. then heat up business end to make jaws for your own use.

On 12/24/2015 at 1:11 PM, Charles R. Stevens said:

If you do that, then the real x-spurts won't know your askin. Most of us ere on the side of safety/ caution, not knowing your skill set and intelligence.

You are absolutely right and I totally understand. Will better convey my thoughts in future so no misunderstanding. Thanks much.

51 minutes ago, Shamus Blargostadt said:

I just did this, $15 for the circuit breaker (busy beaver), around $90 for 8g 2wire wire (lowes), $10 for a welder outlet (lowes), $6 for pvc conduit(lowes) (to run underground between the house and garage), $30 Field And Stream gift card (I got as a thank you last year) for an EE buddy who terminated the ends for me.

I estimated (intentionally over a bit) for a 100 foot run.. ran the wire myself and just called my buddy to do the electrical box and outlet. It looked pretty easy but I really didn't want to burn down my house.

One problem I ran into, the manager at the local electrical supply shop advised me to use 8 gauge wire for 40A and that long of a run. When my buddy checked his wiring guides, that gauge was smaller than specifications for that amperage and gauge due to heat.... so we used a 30A circuit. It should still be more than enough for the welder I have but my intention was to wire it in event I wanted to get something bigger one day. A guy at church had said he ran a 220 line using 10 gauge an even longer distance, which is even smaller... definitely seek out a friendly professional.  Better a slice of humble pie than to be on the morning news... I always say.

 

  

 

 

 

This is exactly kind of info I was originally searching for and very similar scenario I have here. I have found licensed electrician through friend of friend that will allow me to do the grunt work and will do the connection at very affordable cost. I have a building permit so everything will be inspected. Thank you much! I will soon be enjoying my new shop.

Thanks to all who gave good advice. It is appreciated. I got all info I was looking for in this thread.

From now on I will just seek out help from those that offer knowledge without ego/attitude via pms and stay off the main boards.

Thanks for the info guys. I did say I was going with a professional. I was just trying to figure best way. Either from the house or complete new meter at the building.

With all do respect, I did not say I was trying to install a 220 volt system, which i now learn doesn't exist, myself. Of course I'm confused and would certainly have trouble with the calculations, I am not an electrician. That is why I was asking advice of those inclined in that field. Thanks for making me feel like an idiot for my lack of knowledge in that area.

My breaker in house i believe is 'pushomatic' type and box in building is buss fuse type. I will go with a professional for hookup per building permit, though, I would like to do as much of it myself as possible to reduce costs.

I am nearly complete with small shop setup. My last major hurdle is getting 220 hooked up. I currently got a small fuse box with couple 30amps that comes from the house(shop is a detached building) main breaker. So wondering and asking the electricianally-inclined here, what would be best way to get 220 to building?  get seperate meter from house? Run new wire from house?and maybe ballpark guesstimate of what it could cost? My building is 40ft. from house, both 50 years old and in city. Thanks, in advance, for any advice you may have for me.

I know ideally you want the blanket to wrap forge in whole pieces but was wondering if the scrap bags being sold could work just as good? would refractory make it one piece just the same? I did search but not see anybody using the scraps. Would surely make it more affordable option if it was as good.