Dave Hammer

On the forums I read, most smiths that have answered this type of question recommend a number 5 fly press. Larger flypresses require significantly more effort and the number 5 flypresses do the job for them.

Three sources for a small accurate scale:

1. Take your hammer to a produce department in a grocery store. They have scales for weighing fruit and vegatables. Stick your hammer in one of those plastic bags if you are concerned about cleanliness.

2. Use a postal scale. The small ones are generally up to 5 pounds.

3. Older hardware stores generally have scales for weighing nails or seed.

I believe Ferric Chloride is the most commonly used echant. Radio Shack used to carry it in every store (about $4.50 for 16 oz). They call it Echant. Mix one to one with water for knives. I have had trouble finding it lately in Radio Shack stores where I live, but it can also be bought on eBay in powder form. I have read this is the least caustic echant. The length of time you need to submerge will be determined by the amount of etching you want. Try 30 minutes first. Rinse well with water, blow dry (it will rust if you don't). If you want more etch... spend more time submerged.

I use Ferric Chloride undiluted for etching wrought iron. It works well.

Thanks Randy!

These forges must be upper crust. They choked on rebar:-)

When your trousers and shirts have lots of little holes in them (from forge welding).

And the refigerator door and cabinet handles also.

All the light switch plates and door knobs in your house have a layer of black on them.

I grew up in rural North Dakota. The town had a dump grounds that everyone used at will. Lots of treasures out there. When I was very young, I used to go with my dad. One day, while he was unloading our trailer, I wandered away and found a large pile of white ashes. I thought it would be neat to jump into and scatter them. I was wearing medium height tennis shoes. I jumped. The coals were still hot. I had never (before) seen my dad run so fast. I got out of the coals, they they were burning through the shoe laces and tounge of my shoes. He cut the rest of the laces, unhooked the trailer and raced me to a doctor. I still have scars on my ankles, and that was about 55years ago.

Blacksmithing injuries? Probably about the same as most of you. Sometimes we all forget things are hot.

A picture of the ornament I'm making this year can be found at

Blacksmiths Gallery

I made a Christmas ornament last year. Take a look at the pictures and text at these URLs.

Blacksmiths Gallery

Blacksmiths Gallery

Blacksmiths Gallery

Kevin D.... 47 pieces would be just over 2000 pounds.

A cubic foot of mild steel weighs approximately 490 pounds. This translates to about 0.2835 lbs per cubic inch. One of your reference bars weighs about 42.5347 lbs.

Before you worry too much about efficiency, you need to decide what you are going to be heating in your forge.

The size, shape, and number of burners of the gas forge you build should be determined by what you intend to forge. If you are going to be making small stuff, a single burner (1/2" aspirated), 6" OD tube (maybe 8" long), lined with thermal blanket (and coated) will probably do the job.

If you are going to do heavy larger work, the forge would need to be bigger, with more, and larger burners. With aspirated forges, the number of burners is determined by the internal measurement (cubic inches) of the forge. If I recall, it's one 3/4" burner for each 320 cubic inches.

You obtain efficiency by using the right size forge for the job, and having the ability to adjust the pressure of the propane and the amount of air that goes in with it.

How much propane pressure you need varies with the size of the pipe, orfice, and whether you use aspirated or blown.

You get money?

Heat the end of the flat-ended punch. Punch a small ball bearing in the center. Grind around the indentation to your satisfaction. Heat treat.

Sdalcher... I'm on the lookout for wrought iron whenever I'm at a scrapyard. I'm not sure how one would identify "plate" or cross beams as wrought, unless it is rusted enough to see the grain, but when I suspect a round, or a bar is wrought iron, I will cut (with a hacksaw) most of the way through the piece, then bend it till it breaks. If it is wrought, you will see a "fibrous" grains, like wood. The more crude (less refined) the wrought iron, the more pronounced the fibrous look is.

A very good example of how wrought looks may be seen at

http://www.forgemagic.com/bsgallery/bsphoto584.jpg

This piece of wrought iron was cut from a 2" round bar, then broken in two. I'd guess it is a fair example of a low grade of wrought iron (very fibrous). If you break a bar of highly refined wrought, those fibers will still be evident, but very fine.

First question... Do you live alone in the building?

If not, what gives you the right to put others at risk? I would not, under any conditions, run a gas forge in a basement. I don't believe any amateur could assure safety, and a professionally installed environment would not include a homemade forge.

Even if you live alone, it isn't worth the risk. Also, don't get comfortable because there are propane appliances. The ones that are in general use in homes do not pump high amounts gases into the air (regardless of what they are). Those that might (costruction heaters, etc), are only supposed to be used in non-living environments and with extraordinary venting, and NOT for general heating purposes.

It isn't worth the risk!

Do you have, or have you considered a belt grinder instead. I used wheel grinders for 40 years before I even knew belt grinders for metal existed. Now I don't even have a wheel grinder in my shop. I even sharpen drill bits with a belt grinder.
If you haven't used one, I'd recommed visiting a friend's shop to understand the benefits of both.

Butcher's Bowling Alley wax is a great finish for indoors. It has similiar content to the witches brew that some blacksmiths stir up.

If you want to use a clear finish for outdoors, Permalac (brand) lacquer seems to have the best (longest lasting) reputation I could find. It's pricy, but lacquer goes a long way. It can be brushed or sprayed.

Otherwise, the rumor is that it is probably best to paint outside work and expect to re-finish it every few years.

Congratulations Ed!

You mentioned the fan in question is 1/4 the price of the blower you really want. If you can buy from Grainger, you can get a very good blower (115V, 134 CFM) from Grainger for about $56 (Online catalog price). I believe the Grainger number is 2C647.

I was referring to the Photo Gallery on Forgemagic.com - Welcome. I'm not sure how often he reads/posts, but I'm sure he would answer questions if he sees you post over there. He is an amazing talent.

Click here to go to the image

Jim Keith, a blacksmith in New Mexico (I think), made a fist. He reads (and posts occasionally) on ForgeMagic.com. You can find a picture and short description of his project in the Photo Gallery (under "Jim K").

From my point of view, an acceptable height for an anvil depends upon what type of forging you are doing. If you are doing primarily heavy blows during forging, a knuckle height is probably optimal. If you tend to use lighter blows, or are learning Uri Hofi forging techniques, or are having arm or back problems, the anvil should be higher. How high is a personal thing. You should experiment. It helped me to move my anvil up almost to where my wrist bends (within an inch or so).

The business still exists in the same location. The name of the business may have changed. Relatives of Bill are running it. Blacksmithing is not the primary emphasis anymore, but, as of early this spring, there were still items of interest to blacksmiths in the basement, and another storage facility. I'm not sure what is still there now. You might try calling 302-539-5334 to reach the business (or someone involved with it). If you don't get an answer, leave a message and call more.