I know this is an old thread, but I use surface grinder almost daily at work in a machine shop and even know how to do some mechanical work on the Brown & Sharpe 2L with an automatic table reversing mechanism. My forum avatar is the gearbox from when I had to rebuild it after it sat unused for a few years, the rack pinion shaft was severely damaged, the oil lines had to be replaced, and I had to fabricate a lot of parts for the traverse distance mechanisms and the table reversing switch. The coolant pump/tank doesn't work anymore so we can only grind down about .003" at a time using a spray bottle with coolant otherwise it will burn the part and wear out the wheel in no time.
There's also an old Cincinatti one in the shop but I don't particularly like that one now that I have the B&S running again.
We use them from anything from sharpening sheet metal punches and dies (auto turret, duplicator, ironworker, etc.) to holding an extremely close tolerance with a nice square ground finish on a part to cleaning up the surface on mill and table vise jaws. Or the face of a lathe chuck.
The most important parts to remember for reliable operation were mentioned above, dress your wheel regularly, be sure that the spindle is running true with no runout, and absolutely positively be sure that your travel stops are tightened down and working properly before turning on the table reverser. If you don't the table can jump off the rack pinion gears and either break teeth on the gear rack or the gears themselves and you're opening a can of worms. A good travel distance on Y would be about 15-20 thou per ratchet. There really isn't any need to travel more than that each pass, IMO.
Oh, and if you do happen to have a service manual, don't pay attention to it, it's garbage, use your God-given mechanical instinct or call a professional. The manual on a lot of the older ones are specifically designed to prevent you from working on them yourselves, almost like new cars are nowadays!