Krush

just had me a eureka moment, im going to build one of these but instead of using a bottle jack i am going to use a linear actuator with a 3 position toggle to raise and lower the whole ram assembly. I have easy access to heavy duty linear actuators that run off of 110 voltage that come off of old home wheelchair lifts. nothing wrong with the motors, gearboxes or the heavy duty threaded rod either. just loosen the ram assembly bolts and flick a switch.

i know the DP120 is simple enough and probably takes no time but might as well utilize the linear actuators i have access to. collecting the materials now.

good idea, from the information ive seen it looks like the DP hammers use Tubing for the ram. i will build mine with solid steel and a heavier base. from the different videos they can really move the metal and are so versatile. with a heavier anvil to ram ratio and a solid ram it will only improve the energy transfer into the workpiece and move that much more metal. a nice and quiet sand or shot filled box beam spine is the way to go.

im looking forward to the build.

thanks for the information, thats about all that i needed, i think i can piece the rest of what i need together from your video and some of the other DP120 videos ive seen. The adjustable height drive/ram assembly is the best idea ive seen since the tire hammer clutch design. thanks again!

awesome, i sold a very well built kinyon style hammer with a 70lb ram including dies and I was happy with it but was very expensive to operate and i think that DP hammer with the adjustable ram on the main beam would give even more freedom for different tooling and material sizes. From the video it doesnt look  like there is any yawning or flex in the beam the ram is bolted too. can you tell me what thickness that tubing is? also is the ram solid square stock or heavy tubing?

I have been reviewing different mechanical hammers and have been evaluating the difference in different fabricated hammers and buying an older LG, Beaudry or fairbanks but for my uses i think this style fabricated hammer possibly with the linkage style on the X1 powerhammer on the anvil fire forum would suit me best. great video thanks for posting.

Now here was someone with his thinking cap on. obviously built well based on the hammers ability to move steel and i dont see any yawning in the throat even with the adjustble ram. this raises the bar, has anyone else tried this before

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_IMPd-bapk

when building large presses and old school steam and air drop hammers generally the anvil targetted weight is 20X the ram weight, some people go 10x but if you go any lower than that you will be losing energy right through the floor and frame of your machine, alot of machines also seem to buck, jump around, flex and if you look closely you will notice sometimes the machine will yawn in the "throat" there is no substitute for heavy solid mass in the backbone of the press. an alternative is to use to a steel sided design. in the attached vid you will notice the fellow here fabbed his hammer using solid steel sides which reduces all of the welding and eliminates yawning in the neck. either way theres no substitute for heavy built, the heavier you go the more energy from the ram blows will go into your work piece and reduces all of the jumping around. helve or tire hammer or pneumatic hammer are all good in their own ways and people will advocate for each.

 

The soil is all clay under the 5 inches of stone dust, i could try the test unit but it may take a while to be able to see the effect. im probably being paranoid but i dont like doing things twice, i prefer to get it right the first time.

I am looking for some input. I plan on making a large 3 station coal forge in my shop and I plan to use field stone for aesthetics however with my powerhammer pounding away I am concerned that the vibration may eventually crack all the mortar. I currently have my 100 pound air hammer sitting on 5 inches of firmly packed gravel and stone dust with a 1.5 inch industrial shotblast rubber liner acting as an isolator. Should I be concerned about the amount of vibration? I would hate to go to alot of effort to build a nice fieldstone forge then have a losing battle with mortar cracking on me.

 

any input is appreciated

I love that you left the file lines in the blade, it looks beautiful.
Some of the finest work I have seen is on the East Coast, particularly Nova Scotia.

Did you work at the Heritage sight in Pictou? They have a great old school smith setup.

try the white rose, the stuff i got for my propane forge was from there. i dont know if they still carry it but they did before

Not Durham Region but pretty close to the twon of Durham!

W360 from Bohler Uddeholm would be overkill and very expensive but you can keep it in mind for any specialty tooling you may require in future, it is expensive but far outperforms H13 or any other steel I have used in hot forging applications for wear and toughness.

certainly dont think the weak mind applies, i shoe part time and forge the rest of the time, i want to have a long career at it. you can make decent money but as was said it is dangerous. Customer service is #1, quality and cost... there are always customers who know everything, clients who only care about getting it done cheap and then there are alo of good people who are willing to pay what it takes to get the service they want.

getting a fancy rig is alright but i prefer the tow behind trailer so that i can use the truck for alot more things. the fancier equipment you have the more money you will have to charge to make a living at it.

it will run on a 10cfm at 90 psi compressor but if you are able to get a little larger it sure is nice when you work with tool steel or larger stock

Blacksmith Air Hammer Specifications, Power Hammer, Trip Hammer

this is the hammer page of Davids website. i could get pics but the ones on the site are pretty good, David also has goo videos on the use of the heammer on his site.

I wanted to buy one from him directly or build it but ended up buying it from a landlord in an unusual circumstance. ended up getting it cheaper than i could have built it, repaired the gibs and the dies which were badly worn and she runs like a charm.

i love that hammer, its not a Nazel by any means but an extremely well built home hammer. it is very simple and requires only oil in the air system and the dies tightened now and then. David used a hydraulic cylinder on the one that i have which works great and i like for the fact that the shaft is a little heavier than what an air cylinder's would be for the same size.

i love mine, just bought a 10cfm compressor and off we go, took a little while but i have even worked 2.5 inch tool steel with it a few times.

Thanks alot Aeneas, Jarvis is my old stomping grounds i think i'll have to pay an unexpected visit to dear ol dad this saturday!

would help if i checked my spelling before i posted a comment (duhhh)
the barn door hinges were MASSIVE! axles can be really tough material and harden quite well just remember to test it first.

i have made some pretty MASSICE barn door hinges out of old axle. obviously manufacturers would use different materials but every all of the axles i have used i just cut the sline off of forged (which required my PH) And annealed, not a prolbem yet with any of the hinges.... i did water quench the one and could not put a drill bit through so had to anneal it again before drilled holes could be put in. i think you would be pretty safe using it as long as you try working with a small piece and test it to see if it will hold up for what you are wanting to do

if rebar gives you a hard time dont ge too flustered. it is not very good material but better than nothing! if you want to go on the cheap side for your first set old coil springs will do pretty good just anneal the tongs when finished forging i would sugggest you dont quench them as they may take a really high HrC depending on what they are made of.

have fun with them, search this site there are alot of different ways listed on how to make them.

Morlock, i have to say i checked out your web page and your work is absolutely beautiful. Its inspiring to see such beautifull work with so much attention paid to even the smallest details.

i would love to see your shop when travelling through Niagara sometime!

check out the David Robertson artist blacksmith website. he offers a course on how to build a propane forge. you wont likely find a better price for a prop forge but you'll also know how to build your own. i took the course and i am very happy with my propane forge. if you want tongs and are just starting out vice grips will do the trick. or you could check out Professional farrier supply.... or i could make you what you need.

making tongs for yourself are a great start into blacksmithing. they really are not too hard to do.

great do you have a website?

do you carry any good 150 -200 lb anvils? new or used.