FlyingXS

Was originally grey with a red fan inside.

it's all 3" piping

Any ideas on who made it, where I can get info on it etc?

Your right that is the exact same blower!!! Only difference is the ones here have a 240V plug.

Most likely the 3" is the go.

Forge isn't built yet. I am taking the approach of gather ll the materials parts first. Otherwise you get part way through and have those oh I should have done that instead or need to compromise/redo things.

PaulKrzysz.  Are you otherwise happy with the blower?   Do you use the air intake gate on the side or do you use a secondary one between the blower and forge?  My concern with the one built in the side of the blower it is used to cool the motor also.

Some great links there…..thanks.

I came across some small electric blowers today that look a lot like the old handcrank ones and have an closure built in over the air intake.

I have the choice of three units

2"pipe      192m3/h (113CFM)      150W 1.0A

2-½"Pipe  390m3/h (229CFM)      260W 1.6A

3"Pipe      510m3/h (300CFM)      370W 2.0A

All units have a cycle of 50/60Hz and 3000/3600RPM

So which one would you guys go for to use in a coke forge???

I am curious as to how to forge a simple padlock.  Is there any good free online tutorials?  I would like to see what is involved and how difficult it is to do as it may be beyond my current skills.

I think the bearing races are an upgrade and a good one. Mine just has loose balls packed with grease and are a pain to deal with.

I think there could be an easy fix to your thread.  If you can find the old type split die that matches the thread.  Just clamp it onto the good section of thread and then unscrew it. It will clean and recut the thread on the end.  You may have to file the burr/domed end closer to round.

Mine is missing the handle and I can't get the fan off :-(

Handles made and ready to go out of spotted gum.   Just waiting for an opportunity to harden the faces, unfortunately that may be a while off with my current to do list.

Looks like it will do the job to me.

Glad the tip turned out to be fruitful.  Are you going to display as is or clean her up, maybe a full resto.

John Heine still exist and still produce a large array of the presses.  They are also regularly availible on ebay & gumtree.   If you send them an email with a photo they may be able to provided more info on the model and date, etc.

Eddie, I'm glad you have enjoyed coming along for the ride. It has been a great introduction and learning experiance in blacksmithing for me.

Is the bar a consistent diameter, or are the ends where the weights sit fatter?  If it has fatter ends it is an olympic bar and will be a different spec again. Even general bars say used on a bench press come in a variety of grades.  What they are though I can't say.

I was thinking a under 12" Handle.

I have another smaller billet to make a second lighter hammer (3lbs est.)  of the same style when I can.  I made the bigger one first as it is always easier to find a small hammer to use than a large one.

Looks like a John Heine power press.

http://www.johnheine.com.au/images/Typical%20Press%20Layout.pdf

Thanks guys. I appreciate the feedback!!!

Can't wait to harden it and get a handle fitted so I can try it out

Well the journey has come to a climax…..First Hammer!!!!  It's  a 4lbs monster.

I don't know about a work of art but, a lot of hardwork…..So I'll appreciate it when I use it much more than any store bought item.  Still needs to be hardened and the eye tempered.

Work out the area and multiply by the density of iron.

Can you post some photos of it apart.

That is simply stunning.   Can you explain to a novice how you forge welded to get that sort of pattern.

Being European I guess it is solid cast steel, no tool steel top plate.   What state, someone may be able to inspect it for you and give you a better opinion.

I have seen a lot with the lip so not sure it is an issue?  I guess if you removed it in some section it would allow you to work over the edge if need be.

For a an Aussie…What is caulking?  is that like silicon in a tube?

If you warm your knife it should it the bees wax easier.

I have heard of using Mineral Turpentine rather than acetone. I wonder what the difference is? They would both thin the mix & evaporate out to help dry I guess.

Nice work around.  I also have a 400 without mount so may need to copy that concept. Thanks Mike & Mark.

What dave said. Your bronze gear will dissolve & electrolysis doesn't remove grease in my experiance. the grease doesn't conduct so acts as an insulator the the process.

Great for the rust though.