Scrambler82

Things changed...  I can not get in touch with Dennis from Diamondback Ironworks, where I was going to use their Idler Valve Kit, I decided to go back to the original Idler Valve Circuit, piped in.

I will be using the diagrams from the site and modifying them a little to fit my cart/forge/tank location.

Thanks for all the info, parts ordered so there is no turning back now.

I will post pictures when things get going.

Put the final specs to paper yesterday.

I think I will be using, as suggested, 1/4" pipe for the main manifold plumbing and some 3/8" copper thing as a connection from he main manifold o the burners.  

I was going to use one of the Diamondback Ironworks Idler Valve Kit it not being ale to conscious Dennis and the shop I have decided to go the piped/tubing/needle valve version instead.  

I keep changing my mind it I know this is I because I ordered all of the material las night.

Thanks for all of the input, based on this site, my reading and the Diamondback Ironworks (DBI) Videos, I am thinking of using the DBI One Valve Idler Circuit.

I started out drawing diagrams on the extra ball valves, the needle valve, all the fittings and pipes and the cost of this circuit/plumbing, based on new parts and thought about the DBI single valve setup...  the cost being less than half for the DBI Unit.

The video explained how it works and shows the simplicity of the product and I kind of liked it !

Thanks everyone for your thoughts, postings, and ideas.

Now to get Dennis at DBI to respond to me so I can order one of his units.

From reading manufacturers sites info some manufacturers coat their forges and some don't !

From reading on this site all gas forges will benefit form the coating !

Thanks Frosty, appreciate the advice.

Yes, I plan on going to the rear of the Forge, that will be on a cart with a Gas Tank in the rear area too, so it should be straight forward; I just wanted someone who knew better than I to say what was correct !

Hello,

I am looking to replace the rubber Propane Hose that came with my Gasser (a 2burner Diamondback Blacksmith) with either hard pipe or soft tubing.

What is the recommended pipe/tubing sizes, how do I determine the proper size ?

What tubing size can be used in place of 1/4" piping ?

Thanks to all for any commenting.

I read through the "Forge101" Thread, a lot of info and a lot over my understanding level but this thread goes into building, building, building, good info don't get me wrong but not a lot about a pre-made Forge Lining.

I can extrapolate and use what I think is right OR ask the experts on this site, which I am doing !

My status now is buying some Metrikote and going to apply it to everything inside of the forge.

Also wondered about sealing the seams in the floor.

Thanks to any and all for info that will get me to a forge that will last longer than one that is not treated.

6 minutes ago, Frosty said:

It's the valving that determines how much gas flows not the plumbing. 

Frosty The Lucky.

Thanks for responding Frosty.

Are we talking 1/4" valves and 1/4" pipe, is that what you are referencing ?

Is there a norm on the main pipe size and the idle circuit or is there a way to determine the flow rate of the burners vs feed pipe size OR is this going too far in determining the correct pipe sizing ?

Also, what is the spacing usually used to mount the piping from the burner body ?

Again thanks !

Wayne, as in the emails, I have a list started to contact you about.

Thanks for all of the info !

Hello to all,

I recently purchased a Diamondback 2-Burner Blacksmith Forge, looking forward to using it but I want to get the longest, most efficient life out of it !

My question is about coating the inside with a UV Reflective Coating !

Note:  I will be using Metrikote as suggested by a number of members of this Site !

How do you determine if the new Forge needs a coating on the inside ?

How do you determine if you need to fill in any spacing between bricks and edges between sides and floor, before coating the insides ?

What if there is a different insulating material on the walls, larger main door, and the floor, do you use the same coating material ?

Sorry for all of the questions but I am getting excited about using the new Forge and want to do it right and yes being a newbie, I tend to go overboard very fast on what to do !

Thanks for your time,

Grev

Hello to all,

I will be setting up an idle circuit on my new Fore, when it gets here, and I have been reading about them on the Site.

The thing I haven't read about is the size of the piping/tubing that should be used for both the Idle Circuit and the full feed portion of he Gas Supply !

I see, what looks like, 1/4" brass pipe being used for the main gas supply line and a 1/4" Tubing is used on the Idler Circuit; will these sizes work or is there a better size ?

Thanks for your time to read and give your opinion !

Ltr

1 hour ago, EnglishDave said:

Yeah the first time I used Metrikote I misunderstood the instructions to make it like 'paint' and mixed it far too thick, this flaked off when it got hot. This time I mixed it much thinner and so far it has stayed put, in fact I fired up the relined forge yesterday and it got to forge welding temperatures pretty easily.

EnglishD, 

What is the mix you used that stayed in place ?

this could help a lotofpeople !

Thanks

Thanks Mikey and Frosty.

I contacted Wayne and an order will be placed for the Metrikote.

Wayne told me to use a thin coat, similar to Stain, brush it on.

ltr

Thanks for the posting.

A little to late sorry, I already purchased a Diamomdback, 2 burner Blacksmith Version.

All the small shop talk up their Forges, can't blame them, but to me they all do the same thing.

Diamondack got the best reviews, most love them, and one,of the main reasons I went Diamondback was the main door is a full length piece.  The door is full length and width allowing for larger pieces to be used.

Again, sorry, yours looks great and would have a contender !

Thks guys !

i still need to read up on this some more !

ltr

On May 3, 2017 at 9:36 PM, Mikey98118 said:

There are several coatings that can be used; any of them will help lengthen the life of ceramic fiberboard. Two of the best are sold by Wane in small quantities. Metrikote seems to beat out Plistex, with some customers, for heat reflection. Larry prefers Plistex for toughness. I have no idea which you should prefer; you can always devil Wayne about that (Oh...what a bad old Mikey)  How many materials these coatings will work on is something else to ask Wayne about

Thanks for your time !

Mikey98118,

You mentioned in another thread about coating the interior of the ceramic board with a material but I did not catch what !

Could you direct me to the proper thread or material, please ?

Also, I believe the front door or larger door, uses a different material, would the use the same coating material ?

Thanks for your time, appreciate it !

Novice's opinion...  then whole "Hand. & Anvil Forge" should be used, along with the "Hand".

Your placard should have the "Hand & Anvil" part should be arched and the "Forge" placed under the arch with a hand in between the two lines or the "Hand and the Anvil" can be under the "Forge".

Just my 2 cents !

Great name, I am on the list for liking it !

Ok been reading too much, confused... whittled it down to two manufacturers... Diamondback and Chile, although the Devil Forge  was a close third.

I did a search on Diamondback Forges, every review was good to great, never a bad one.

The two burner blacksmith forge looks like a nice one and would allow for my growth without changing the forge AND the price is under $500.00 and shipped to SoCal around $600.00.

The Chile Forges look good and have good reviews but the prices are double the Diamondback.  I like the Cheyenne Oval, 2 -burner, is interesting and I read somewhere that the oval has better flame travel; after adding a stand, extra floor plate and door opening brick... Price shipped to SoCal is around $1500.00, ouch, a little over my budget !

For what it is worth, based on opinions here and reviews both here and on other sights out there in Web Land, I will be buying a Diamondback Forge.  Probably the 2-burner blacksmith Forge.

Thanks to all for your comments and guidance.

My problem is I read TOO much !  Get too much info, can't keep it all in, all I need is a good simple forge, easy to set up and use.

I was just reading about the Devil Forge, so far they seem like a nice simple but efficient forge and can be purchased in 1, 2, and up burners.

Guess I need to read more.

4 hours ago, Mikey98118 said:

If you have been reading much lately about turn-key forges here, you should know that Chile forge and Diamondback forges are about the only models that consistently get good reviews. If you aren't using a hydraulic or air hammer, the prices on Diamondback will probably seem more reasonable; they are also considered easy to maintain by their owners. I am sure you can find someone who likes Forgemaster forges, if you look long and hard enough; just my two cents worth.

Thks, I will look at the Diamondback brand a little more.

Hello to all, warm or cold, it is about 75 here in SoCal and going to the 80's today.

Here where I live at 2000 ft there is a nice breeze to keep things cool.

When I built my barn people asked why I pointed it toward the prevailing winds...  to keep things cool, the breeze blows in the large front doors and out the roof vents.

Anyway...  I was looking at the Forgemaster Forges and was wondering about anyone opinions f Forgemaster itself and the Forgemaster 2000, see pic below.

I am 70 years old and do not want to build a forge, I do not want to lug around coal or make my own charcoal, I just want something to heat up small pieces of steel to make small ornamental items,  max bar size will probably be around 1" rd stock, maybe a little larger, maybe some flat stock too.

As an Amatuer Radio Operator I was an appliance operator, that's a person who uses prebuilt radio and does not tinker with them, so I am headed in the same direct when bending metal, the end result !

Anyways... I am looking for a decent forge I can do my small stuff in and if needed some larger pieces and was hoping to find a GREAT pre made forge so I can get started.

I HAVE READ A LOT OF POSTINGS AND THREADS ON THE SITE and can not pin point what I really need but I am getting closer to actually forging here in SoCal now that the new shop is up.

Thanks ahead of time for any comments about the forge posted or any other forge or about me and my methods... go for it !

ltr

p.s.   I just checked the temperture...  83 going to 87...  Sorry I stand corrected !

Thanks an interesting topic lately and I thought everyone just used a hand-grinder !

From a novice, I know she asked for engraving her initials but...  what about cutting out the initials from a separate piece of steel and weld them on, raised lettering.

Another thought would be cutting the lettering out of the cross with say a Plasma Cutter... sort of a hollow look !   The missing part !