Phil Dwyer

Well, I haven't done any more research yet, but am about to go check the saw blade. I'll probably put another new one on and flip the piece over and see how it goes.

As for usage of titanium....

I'm making my Dad a set of hunters for Christmas. He's having his second hip replaced in a couple of weeks. I was thinking of using copper and brass for the hardware in his knives. But have decided to try to see what I can do with titanium (as in his new hips) for the fittings.

The pic below shows my start of his gift. The larger blade is 57 layers (random) of 1084 and 15N20 I made up at a friends, Indian George, with his press. The smaller blade is actually for my young son. (He's now a bit older than in my avatar. He just turned seven.) It's cable damascus with copper guard and butt cap. I still have to forge another small one out for my Dad from the 57 layer billet. The antler is from a buck Dad shot in 1959 when I was two years old. I've uploaded a photo of me and our dog, at the time, with it after hanging and freezing.

Thanks for all the ideas fellas. I'm on my third blade. It's a bi-metal variable 10-14 TPI. Got it from McMasters. Their chart says use variable blade for titanium. They also say use 2-4 TPI for my size stock, but for my blade length (64.5") 10-14 TPI is the fewest teeth they have. My previous blades both snapped. (I'm still learning how to use a horizontal band saw. Think I got all the guide bearings set right now.) I'll cut some steel with the blade in there now to see if it still cuts. Wouldn't that be a hoot if it's just dull? Anyway, guess I'll try and track down some folks who know more and can make more blade specific suggestions.

I don't want to use a torch. I'd really bugger this thing up then. It's also a too hefty a chunk (2"x4"x6") for hot cutting (for me anyway).

I got it as scrap for $10 a pound. I understand retail goes for over $100 per lb.

Hi Friends,

Any of you folks work with titanium? I'm trying to cut a 1" slice off of a 2"x4"x6" chunk of Ti-6Al-4V. It is slooooooooow going! I'm probably 6+ hours into it and still have almost 1" to go. Anyone have any suggestions, or is this par for the course?

Thanks, Phil

Hey John,

I started out like your doing too, but after knocking up a couple of spike blades I went on to some better steel. I chose to do this for two reasons.

1. Better steel works differently, in that it's harder to move, easier to over heat, not so casually quenched in the slack tub, and it's heat treatable.
2. You can go through the whole knife making process: guards, handles, promels, etc.
   

I "progressed" from spikes to coil and leaf spring steel. Once again, a couple of blades out of that and I again reassessed my choice of steel and ended up getting some known steel, like 5160, 1084 & 52100. Also rounded up some handle material: stag, koa wood, brass, copper and stainless primarily.

Anyway, just some thoughts. Hope you post some pix! Oh ya, I'd just quench those spikes to get what ever hardening you can (not much really). No need to temper. It's just not gunna get that hard.

All the best, Phil

Hi Friends,

I believe this blueprint snafu started nearly five months ago in last May when there was a system wide software change being made. At the time, when the Blueprints problem started, it was thought (hoped) it would take a day or two to straighten out. Obviously, that has not proven to be the case. As I understand it, Glenn and Andrew have been working on the issue ever since. Hopefully they will be able to rectify the problem. Although it would be a loss to lose several hundred Blueprints, it would not be the end of the world. As we have seen, we have survived (somewhat) the last several months without them.

I had no idea how much many of us used the Blueprints, perhaps even more so than the forums. I, for one, have found that my visits to IForgeIron have slowly tapered off, in part, for that reason. Perhaps we need to focus on making new Blueprints?!

I wonder if throwing some money at the problem would help fix it? You know, like to being able to pay for extra programming time or hire more expertise, or something? If it could help, I'd be pleased, as I'm sure many would, to make a donation for the cause!

All the best, Phil

Those sound like some good ideas. I've gone ahead and applied locktight (red). If it gives I'll probably try sweat soldering. Thanks, Phil

Well,

I figure some of it out. Part of the shaft is actually a bushing. I've got it separated. I guess I'll try some lock tight to re-seat it in the housing. I'm still not sure it'll retain the shaft though. There seems to be too much play between the bushing and the housing, thus am not sure the locktight will do the job. Plus it seems the forge's heat will challenge the locktite too. Anyone got any ideas?

Thanks, Phil

Hi Friends,

I've gone through the old threads, but couldn't quite find the info I need.

I just got an old Champion #40 blower with a bit of a prob. The fan propeller shaft slides out of the body thereby thrusting the blades into the outside housing face. Adjusting the blades and/or moving the blades further back on the shaft doesn't resolve the prob as the shaft just keep coming forward until the housing is re-engaged. When I take the housing apart, I indeed found, the shaft just falls right on out. I am mystified as to how it is supposed to be retained.

Anyone know?

Thanks, Phil

Thanks guys!

PMs sent. Justin, do please bring what you can to the hammer in.

I need some in NH too. Believe it or not, I've already got another 15 year old to teach. I knocked on a door the other day to try and buy a log that was in the yard (that hadn't cut and split into firewood yet) to help setup my NH smithy...and what do you know? The guy's teenage kid wants to be a blacksmith. Took a workshop at Old Sturbridge Village. He'll be over here to play around in no time.

I tell you, life's a trip. All I have to do is follow my nose and she unfolds in wondrous ways.

All the best, Phil

Hi Friends,

There's a saying that, one sure way to learn something is to teach it. Well, I'm giving it a shot. Here are some of my 10th graders with their final blacksmithing project before the school year ended. Need-less-to-say, nearly each and everyone of them hit a wall (burning blades too thin at the tips (or some such)) on their way to completing their rail road spike knives. But, as you can see here, they hit the finish line with plenty of vim and vigor...and steel to spare.

Enjoy. They did. As did I!

Mahalo, Phil

PS - Thanks for the spikes John and Richard. We put them to good use.

PPS - Can we trouble anyone for some more? I've got even more classes to teach this coming school year.

I've been noticing the whole tong rack at the forge idea somewhat of a bust (for me). Dragon's breath aside, the working end of the tongs get heated just handling material. Stick them back in the rack and, ouch, you're handling the hot end to get them back out. Even if smiths aren't reaching to grab them, they're there where their wrists can brush up against them. (Couldn't resist that sentence construction. )

Hi Friends,

Great work you guys: both the forges...and the soul searching re polish and paint.

I've noted (in my street psyche case studies :cool:) that often with guys, we express kindness and appreciation to each other via seemingly harmless little quips, pokes and jabs. You know, the proverbial slap on the shoulder kind of stuff. It usually goes over well, often instigates lots of fun banter and cordial interchange, but sometimes we get caught off guard and miss the underlying intention of affection.

For me, when I read the jest re 'ugly, but good ideas' I chuckled and thought, "ya ain't Uncle Frosty and his inventions, creations, projects, etc, GRRRRREAT!" Well, that's what I 'heard' in the quip.

Well, I better nip this in the bud as I'm likely to be digging myself into a pretty deep hole.

All the best guys, as you are the best. Keep it coming. I find great wisdom, guidance and fun hanging out with y'all in cyber-smith-ville!!!

Aloha, Phil

so John do you sell a set of plans for the tire hammer?

I finally phoned Clay up to get a set. You need to mail him a check for $30. His contact info is listed in other threads. Here's one posting with it, http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f57/new-tire-hammer-4704/#post41539.

It's great you're undertaking this project and sharing it with us. Please document it as much as possible. Thanks so much, Phil

Looking good. Say, what's up with that anvil?

I have tried electrochem etching, turbo carver with hand initials, stamping, having jewelers engrave them. Electrochem did not work well or consistently on Damascus, turbo carver (with my handwriting nah), Stamping was not neat enough, jewelers have become too expensive $35 per knife. I just purchased my own flat engraver and will be marking my name with that. it looks as good as any jeweler and I don't have to wait or pay for the service. Chuck

Hey Chuck, Can you tell us a little more about your flat engraver? What make and model? Where can we learn more about this method? Thanks, Phil

where in pa are you?
i have a peter wright and a mousehole i am not using

Did you see/check out this post?

Hey Friends, if you have a minute, I'd appreciate your input:

http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f43/questions-about-free-massive-diesel-generator-5817/#post53399

Hi Friends,

I'm a bit over my head on this one (what else is new). The manager of the condo complex we presently rent at has offered me the 11 story building's old generator simply for disconnecting it and hauling it out. It's connected to a bunch of electrical boxes with relays, humming coils and breaker switches. It hasn't been used for years. I just got a quick look at it in the near dark basement. All I could read was Lister Diesel on two lids next to the fuel tank. The exhaust is piped out, no fuel piped in. Heck of a generator. Sure wish I still had my farm. I'm going to scramble to see if I can find someone or place to stash it. Not sure how to go about moving the beast.

Got any suggestions, instructions, warnings???

Oh ya, looks like I can score a hefty Baldor motor and some whopper pillow block bearings shafted (well over an inch diameter) to an old blower. Apparently no one knows about the wiring and history of all this stuff. They just want it out. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks, Phil

It shouldn't be that difficult. You'll definitely need a slender long tapered mandrel to shape your circle. If you want to forge weld it you might want to try something like this:

• work with a length of stock the approximate thickness and width you want,
• heat up a few inches (a couple of inches up from the end),
• wrap hot rod around your mandrel (just a bit smaller than the intended finished diameter),
• it should look like a coil from a spring (overlap, don't try to butt fit),
• you don't have to make the end wrap (just cut the extra end metal off),
• scarf and forge weld to the remaining loop (with the long rod as a handle)
• cut off long rod,
• heat and strech/shape by tapping down on mandrel,
• file/grind weld to match stock,
• texture/finish as desired.
  

Now you got me wanting to try it.

If you don't want to forge weld it, you could cut your loop off at the intersection point with a fine saw blade (see illustration). Both ends drop off and you're left with a pretty nice jump-ring-like circle. Slide/push ring ends up and down until they lineup with each other and make a nice and tight butt joint. Arc or wire weld or braze or solder together. Again, tap down mandrel for final shaping and sizing.

This works with non ferrous metals real well.

Hey Chuck,

Looks fantastic! I hope to get to the Blade Show someday and meet you and your work. You never know, with a little luck it might could happen. Just as, with a little luck I might make it to Texarkana for a blade making class.

Thanks for your generosity!!!!

Phil

BP0072 Making a Hammer - I Forge Iron

Making a Hammer
Written by Irnsrgn aka Jr Strasil, Baby-Anvil
Friday, 09 March 2007

History, cultural context and customer aside, that is some fine looking work. For my book, forging two straight lines with four curving mirror image bevels all symmetrically is no small feat. Heck, for me, not melting the tip off is an accomplishment. Great work! I too will enjoy and appreciate any photos you post. Thanks for sharing!

Welcome back!!! What have you been up to? Power hammers? Knives? Etc, etc???

If you have enough of the iron stock, you might want to put a slight taper on a piece to make a forming mandrel. You could then form your brass to a slightly smaller dimension than the intended size. Then braze the ends together while off of the iron. You should then be able to hammer it down on your mandrel to shape and size it. (Knock the sharp corners off the tapered stock just a bit.) The trick here is to not make your brass too small as it will not hold up to a lot of stretching down the mandrel. If you end up slightly over sized you can hack saw out a saw blade kerf, or two, from your collar and re-braze the ends together to size it a bit smaller. Flip the collar over a few times as your working it on the mandrel, otherwise you'll end up with a tapered collar.

I often used silver solder (the stuff for sterling jewelry, not the low temp stuff) to join brass together. If the fit of your end seam is tight the finished solder line color won't show that much. Silver solder seems to flow a lot better than brazing rod, but you have to have a perfectly tight joint, it doesn't fill gaps like brazing can.

Let us know how it goes and post a few pix.