KST1-Derek Fultz

This conversation is way out of my league, so take this for what it's worth...

You might consider horse stall mats as part of your isolation system. They come in 4'x6' sheets, are about 3/4" thick and are super durable. Most farm supply stores will have some in stock. I bought a couple a few years back for ~$35 each.

-Derek

I've thought of doing some (primarily my last name) by forging various components and then riveting them together. For example an "E" would be made from 3 forged elements then riveted at the connecting points. Haven't made any yet, but thought that might add some interesting dimension and craftsmanship.

-Derek

I've been told that some truckers and detail shops use ammonia to put the shine back on aluminum wheels. No personal experience so proceed with caution. And, as always a test piece in an inconspicuous area is a good idea.

Maybe someone else can provide more info.

-Derek

I went to Jefferson's Monticello two years ago. Jefferson built an industry around nail making. He imported "nail rod" from France. These were rough forged rods of varying length ~ 1/8" in diameter/cross section. He had young slave boys making nails and would sell them. Interesting to note as well that the slaves at Monticello could grow their own crops and chickens in their free time and sell them to Jefferson. In this way they could have their own money and some freedom.

-Derek

I should have added that I hope to be working on a couple of "bean can" forges (one for my Dad, and one for my son and I), a couple of small snakes out of 3/8" for my two nephews birthdays, and a hosta leaf fountain commission out of stainless sheet. Other than that, the constant cleaning and updating of the shop. Hope I have time to make progress on them all!

-Derek

Pics Thomas, we want pics!

:>) -Derek

Being ''aware of what you're doing'' is a simpler solution...........

Quote; Frank Turley

Agreed!! No substitute for that! And I rarely if ever come close to bumping the horn tip. However, my wife, kids, and buddies, join me in the shop pretty frequently and I can't say the same for them. Safety is a big thing in my life. Why take the chance when an accident can be prevented. Just an option...

-Derek

Found a couple more pics. The first one shows the tip cover hanging below the horn when using the tip. The others are of the magnet mount and how I mounted the cane tip for those that are interested.

With this cover in place, most of the horn remains usable. When going all the way around the horn (bending a ring, etc.) or using the tip, it it easily removed.

-Derek

When I bought my Trenton anvil the horn was slightly blunted. Gary Jameson showed me how to heat it with a rosebud and, using a heavy hammer on one side as support, hammer the other side back into shape. By working my way around the horn tip, I forged it back to a nice point.

To keep from stabbing myself with it I made a little cover that I usually leave in place. It pulls off and hangs below when I need to use the tip. Some of my buddies refer to is as an anvil condom or bra. Whatever, it works.

My appoligies for the bad pics.

-Derek

I followed this thread closely from beginning to end. Absolutely stunning outcome! Your skill and casual descriptions of the process make it seem so simple. Yet, I can see the underlying knowledge, experience, and talent in the final piece. Thanks for sharing! -Derek

For the first 3 years of my blacksmithing experience I had the horn pointing to the right (I'm right handed)believing it didn't matter either way. Recently I've turned it around so now the horn is pointing left. I did this because most of the demos and videos I've been watching have the demonstrator working with the horn to the left. Using the radiused edge of the anvil(off side) and the tight edge (near side) similar to the way the demonstrators are doing it helps me in the learning process.

I don't normally do things just because the majority do it that way, but this time it's beneficial to me. Just something to think about.

-Derek

Grant and/or Stampman,

What kind of pattern/drawing do you need to make the touchmark? If I send a sketch is that good enough, or do you need some kind of computer file?

-Derek

I'm in the process of rebuilding a blower right now. I used the acetone/atf mix and it worked like a charm on the bolts holding the blower to the forge. The flat head screws/bolts around the fan housing were to far gone (slots missing on many) so I used the grinder with a flap disk to make them disappear. Acetone/ATF mix again on the fan blade set screw with no problems.

-Derek

Hi AJ, I'm following this build with high interest. You're doing an amazing job, and the comments/suggestions are top notch. I had pretty much ruled out an air hammer for my build, but you're bringing me back around. Do you have any ideas on how much SFM will be needed to run this thing at a steady pace?

I guess I could ask this to everyone out there (haven't taken the time to search); Would my compressor (rated at 12 scfm @120psi, 14scfm @ 40psi)run a moderately sized kinyon or new style kinyon?

-Derek

Flock or Gaggle? I'm not sure, but seeing a new tutorial from Brian makes me GIGGLE!

-Derek

I'll be coming in from East Central Illinois on Friday afternoon. Bringing my Dad again this year as well. We'll be camping in my little RV in the electric area. Looking forward to learning a few things and soaking in as much blacksmithing as possible. Work has been pretty hectic over the last few months and I haven't gotten much shop time in. This should be a nice repreive.

-Derek

That's a great hoe! I think working with one off tools makes the job much more enjoyable (assuming the tool works correctly).

What's the deal with the lay-on-top grinder that guy is using in the link?

-Derek

I just wear mine. From the safety aspect, I don't see a lot of an issue with normal blacksmithing operations. If I were doing factory, construction, or farm work, I wouldn't wear it. To many chances for it to get caught on something and rip a finger off. But most of my forging is light weight smaller stuff so I'm comfortable (good or bad?) with the risk.

From a ring damage aspect, I think a beat up ring says more for the dedication to the marriage than and pretty one. Kinda like a scar, they say a lot about a person. I have a simple gold band. It gets welding spatter in it all the time. I usually just use my pocket knife to scrap out the big peices and leave the small ones unless they rub my fingers wrong.

-Derek

The Metal Artist Forum (My linkhttp://www.metalartistforum.com/) has a nice patina section with lots of good ideas and instructions. You might check over there.

I've got a small (5 gal) tumbler that I use for deburring parts. I just use old pieces of cut off stock from the bandsaw and misc. dry wall screws, nails, bad bolts, etc. Metal on metal. Everything comes out pretty clean, but after awhile I have to trade out the "media" and clean out the bucket to get rid of the slag dust and scale that gets knocked off. I would think that if using metal "media" you would have to use similar metals or you would get rusting issues.

Maybe try a little play sand to trap and hold the dust? I've heard that walnut shells work well too.

-Derek

Check out this thread over on the Metal Artist Forum http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3677&highlight=file+cutting

KNeilson goes all the way on file making! I found it very informative.

-Derek

RV antifreeze or Propylene glycol, is non-toxic and would work to keep your water from freezing. You can buy it by the gallon at most home centers.

As for it's effects on the metal you quench in it, someone with more knowledge will have to answer that.

Harbor freight sells replacement blades through their online catalog. I picked up a set not long ago. I couldn't get them through my store, but they had them online.

-Derek

You might try Penetrol. I put it on my rusty anvil, and while it is indoors, it has lasted quite awhile. Some people mix a little Japan Dryer in with it to harden it up a bit.

-Derek

Here's mine.

-Derek