PaulF

I was thinking on if I should replace the gibs or just have the holes machined a bit slot like to allow them to be adjusted farther in. Probably check the wear surfaces for dips and make the decision on that basis. As I don't have a machine shop I have to rely on the kindness of strange friends for such work.

How is the back plate the ram moves against on yours?

Thomas
The wear on the Tup dovetail and backplane is minimal the gibs had the only wear, it showed that the motion of the crank caused the wear to increase on the top of one and the bottom of the other as the crank moves the Tup from left to right slightly on each stroke. I could re-machine the old ones and as you suggest, elongate the bolt holes thus giving me a spare set. Using soft steel for the gibs helped to reduce wear on the harder casting parts, I guess I could swap them around (like rotating tires) to better distribute the wear pattern.

This week end I'll machine the key-way into the main shaft.

I notice that with out the pully sheave in the central yoke position I may have to put a bushing in there with some teflon washers to keep the oil in the bearing oil resevoirs. Any advice?
Paul

The low motor is also the reason I'm modifying also.
As you have found, my bearings are in great shape as well. I've replaced the slide guide ways with new, and I can tigthten the hammer to move freely, not bind and , have no side movement.
All and all I think, this hammer will work very nicely once I've connected everything togeather.

PaulF

The project is moving along. I found 1-9/16 shafting and have a 1/2x40x 28 base plates to mount the stand on.
All this I will mount on pressure treated 6x6 timbers formed into a base under the 1/2 plate. This should form a shock absorber for the concrete slab.
This will also bring the dies up 6-1/2".
I've brazed the broken edge of the belt pulley and a coat of flat black will forgive all abuse.

I'm determined to get some pictures out. I think I'll post from work to photo-bucket and include a link.
Sorry I cant post them here. Every time I try, things just drop off the edge.
Thanks for the help.
PaulF

Thanks for the replies!
So let me get this right, I can use v or other belts and also use a friction idler clutch action like the flat belt??
This would work the same?

I am planning on putting my motor on a stand about 3 feet off the floor behind the machine thus keeping my belt shorter.
This is a great hammer and I want to keep it going.
PaulF

Sam,
Thanks for the offer, but transferring photos (even small files) is torture from here.
I live on the North Olympic Peninsula near Olympic National Park. We have no cable and I would have to cut 5 acres of 2nd growth dug fir to get a shot at the Meridian for sat coverage.
It’s a price I’m willing to pay to live in paradise.
On further examination, the shaft is 1.560” in diameter. Not a convenient size so it looks like I’ll have to machine a 1-5/8 (1.625”) shaft down to size unless I can find a 1-9/16” cold rolled shaft.
What I plan on doing is mount the hammer on a 40x25” ½ plate. This will allow me to build a motor stand behind the hammer and run the belt up to the sheave. It will take up some floor space but keep the motor low. Before, I had a bracket up high which made the CG of the whole thing unstable.
Suggestions are welcome!
PaulF

Sorry for not responding, work has reared it's ugly head yet again.

The shaft was cut in a band saw and the pulley sheave and counter weight/crank shaft segments were pushed out with a 20 Ton press. The shaft in the crank is indeed keyed with a tapered key that presses out from the back side. This pushed the 20 Ton press almost to the end before it popped.
Don't hit the belt sheave with a rubber hammer to loosten it, don't ask me how I know this, Im brazing mine now!

I'm on dial up so I'll post pics soon when I get them. It takes all day to upload them.

Thanks for the help.
PaulF

I have not worked with a champion but many hammers have a tapered key driven in from the end along with a fairly snug fit on the shaft. The crankplate will break easily so I recommend that you cut the shaft off close to the back side of the plate. center punch the center then start by drilling a small hole then step drill til you get to the key way the shaft will press out with ease. You are going to make a longer shaft anyway so it is best to be on the safe side. I have made many of this type conversion to little giants so the belts can be changed without taking the bearing caps off. works great .Phil

Just a thought. What about making a shaft extension with a socket on one end that will just slide over the existing shaft, and position the pulley where you need it?

I have a Champion #1 that I am modifying so the motor is on the base.
In order to do this I will have to incerase the leingth of the shaft to move the belt out of the yoke.
This will allow me to mount the belt shiv behind the machine and line up with the motor on the base.

I see a potential problem in removing the shaft from the crank/counter weight. Is it a screw thread or press fit??
I can't find any set screws.

If anyone has done something like this I would like to know the pitfalls.

Thanks for your help!
PaulF

Hi,
In the past I've used a Brass wire brush.
You can get one at most Auto parts stores for cleaning white wall tires.
Heat to black heat, heat that will make a fir or pine stick smoke and char.
Then brush with the Brass brush.
This leaves a nice highlite on the high spots and defines detail.
Paulf

David,
I wonder if Champion made hammers in the 1000-or beter sizes?

Your hammer looks like it could work today when you have things hooked up with the power.
Great pictures. Mabe we should have all the champion owners start an idea exchange!
I sure hope folks who know these hammers would help!

I know, the hammer I have, could be tuned to work as well as any import!!:D

I have the same champion hammer you folks have (#1 -75 pound Ram).

I've been using it with a sort of funky motor setup.

Harrismetalsmith, It sounds as though you have quite a bit of experience with these hammers. Could you recomend to D Ravizza and I the best way to attach, and or rig up, the motor? I have a heavy 1 horse Century (very old but a lot of tourque) .

I've been looking for a good way to connect it to the hammer via belts shafts and idelers. What I'm using now is not that great.
PaulF

Mulciber,
I have several, a 100# KOLSHWA (Swedish), 180# Fisher (US) and a 450# Nimba Gladiator (Port Townsend/ Tacoma Wa. US) and I love all three and would recomend any of them.

I live just a few miles from where Russel Jaqua who started Nimba anvils lived.
He has passed away now and I dont know who is making them now.

All three of these and meny more are well made, you don't want too hard because of chiping or to soft that mutes rebound and allows nicking and marring.

Even the best will dent if you, for example, skip a cold chisel into the surface.
As others have wisely said learn on railroad steel or buy a 6x6x10 saw cut bar from a steel supply house. With a section of square bar (or round) you could cut off a quarter inch or so to expose a new surface when the old one gets to rough. When you are not cutting off nicked surfaces, you are ready to drop 1.6K for a great tool.

With care they will last well beyond our lifetimes. Good luck.
paulf

I the 70s I was a journeyman shipfitter before I went back to school.

If that hammer is in the 3-5 lb range it is exactly the pattern of a top maul.

paulf

My shop is very small, the area where the hammer is located is just in the entry way and I have hit my head meny times.
Perhaps you are correct, I could mount the motor on the floor and use a drive shaft.
I just got off a research vessel in the Chukshi Sea (at sea 7 weeks) I was ducking my head several times a day on the ship.
What ever I do, I will remove the obstacle!
Thanks guys, for your help.
PaulF

I'm from Sequim Washington. I have a forge and prototype machine shop in the area beteween Sequim and Port Angeles Wa.

Hi folks!
I'm new here, and would like to say hello and ask a question.

I have an old 75 lb. Champion power hammer. The motor and belt are mounted to the side of the drive shiv.
I have been thinking of mounting the motor above the hammer as the old Jack lines ran the drive.

I was hoping to build the bracket from angle and attach it to the hammer and not to a seperate structure.

Has anyone done this and have a drawing? I can forge ahead, however if someone has a working system I don't want to reinvent the wheel.
Thanks in advance.
paulf