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I Forge Iron

keykeeper

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Posts posted by keykeeper

  1. Compromise, or ride it out for a while.

    She may come around, after you've made her and all her friends nice little trinkets. So far, everytime I make something new, the wife gets the first one, then she places her order for gifts for her friends. Roses, hearts and crosses seem to be the trinket of choice in these situations and almost surely will work to your advantage.

    In return, I get better shop time priviledges and budget revisions to allow for whatever new toy, er, I mean tool I want and she even occasionally brings me iron to work with she may find here or there.

    Keep your clutter/junk/stockpile out of sight, that will also work to your advantage. The only time the wife sees my stuff is if she wants to.

    Guess I got a good woman for a wife.

  2. Since we've been discussing clinker breakers and such, I thought I would share this.

    Biggest clinker to date I've pulled from a fire, this one was created with one of the "rotating disc/triangular shaped" type clinker breakers in one of our associations shop forges. This took about 3 hours of forging to make, note the hole in the middle, this was all one piece but broke when I pulled it and cooled it off. Approximately 5 inches across, never slowed the fire down one bit, just kept rolling away from the blast into this nice donut. I worked the "Clinker breaker" several times while managing the fire. Never saw any clinker in the ash bucket. Enjoy.

    I'm kinda proud of this one....LOL.

    17625.attach

  3. That's a dandy forge, Bill. Enjoy it.

    For what it is worth: This seller on eBay has a very nice replacement tuyere plate for sale. Blacksmith Tuyere Plate Iron Forge Repair Item - eBay (item 270431164923 end time Sep-19-09 21:01:39 PDT)
    These are heavy, cast ductile iron. I have one I have used in a brake drum firepot, and another small round forge I built. Still in great shape, even after laying around outside all last winter and spring.

    I bought several things from him, and bought more at Quad-State last year. Nice fella, good product. I recommend him highly. Not saying you have to buy from him, but thought I would throw this out in case you want a new air plate.

  4. I made a half scale froe from a hoof rasp. A friend wanted one for splitting basket splints from hardwood. Stuck my first forge weld on the eye. Tricky little beast to get right. Third try got it to go. Fun but hard project, although I did learn a lot.

    Anywho, I agree, if you want one to use, start from scratch. If you want one restored, take it to someone that can do it right. UnicornForge was dead on in his advice.

  5. Unicorn:

    The one I was speaking of has a half round depression in the bottom of the firepot, with the three slots. That part actually sits down into the top of the tuyere. The so called "clinker breaker" in it swings into the side slots, in a pendulum like action.

    To be honest, I like the ones like the Buffalo, where the fire is sitting directly on it. I think it allows better control of the blast, which allows you to have a fire either real hot in the middle, or spread over a wider area.

    Seems like that type makes a better "donut" clinker, at least the one at our assoc. shop does. I like pulling apart the fire, and fishing them out after we shut it down.

  6. Bill, Sorry, didn't know I wasn't supposed to say anything. I've heard of more than one pritchel hole welded up by unknowing folks, so I figured that is what happened.

    For what it is worth, I think the anvil is a decent one, as evidenced by the slight sway in the face it appears to have. Probably seen more work in its time than I ever will.

    Good luck, I won't say anything more, for fear of being quoted (twice) and flogged publicly.

    Geesh, try to be helpful............

  7. Thank you Jr. I agree. I use an old Champion Whirlwind with the three slot arrangement, the only thing the "clinker breaker" reaches is inside each slot, but doesn't reach out enough to affect anything lying inside the air grate slots. The middle is not affected by any movement of the device. There is no way the clinker is touched by it. Most of the time, what clinker I get fall through the slots anyway with a little coaxing from the poker when I lift the fire after burning for a while. I have yet to find a sizable clinker in my pot. Luckily, I have a supply of good coal that doesn't form much clinker.

  8. the 40 means the points of carbon. So 1065 would be .65 points carbon, and so on.

    There is a chart link posted here somewhere, I'm just too lazy at this juncture of the evening to find it.:D

    Wait, google fu found this http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-aisi-sae.htm

    and this.... http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/aisi-sae-steel-numbering-system-d_1449.html

    and this ... http://www.jjjtrain.com/vms/eng_metal_stds/eng_metal_stds_03.html

    Maybe that will help.

  9. I battled a few large wasps last week. Hit em with the spray, finished the escaping ones with my weedburner torch. Just waited them out, incinerated them as they flew out their escape route. Some of em pop in mid-air.....he he heh heh. Love the turbo lever on that torch.

    Fire gooooddd, wasp bad!!!!

    Dr. Jim-next ones I fry, will keep you in mind as motivation. One less to attack those that are allergic

  10. Ah yes, George, I forgot about doing it that way. An infinite number of possibles exist doing those like that. Even have that handy space like bolt tongs for holding headed items or spikes.

    I have a pair of tongs I bought in a package deal of 11 different ones that are straight lipped tongs with a split piece of 1/2 inch pipe welded onto the straight bits. Work a charm for holding smaller gauge railroad spikes. (an half-inch stock, also!)

  11. Top pair is a hoof parer, bottom is a hoof nipper. I don't know a farrier that still uses parers, nippers are found everywhere at flea markets as "blacksmith tongs".

    Many blacksmiths have made usable tongs from them. Your creativeness is the limit in how to rework them. Only warning I can give is don't quench them in water, some or most are tool steel, and will crack pretty quickly when quenched in water. At least that was my experience on one pair I reworked. Jaw cracked and then fell off when I layed them down on my hearth.

    You can use a v swage (make one from angle iron) and a piece of square rod to reform the jaws once you straighten them out. Then they will hold round or square stock. This could be done to hold any number of sizes of stock.

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