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I Forge Iron

Hofi

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Posts posted by Hofi

  1. Hello Strine
    U Wrote In The First Paragraf '' On The First Heat I Forge The Point And ''maybe'' Achive A Theired Of The Taper. Means That U Put It More Times In The Fire To Finish . Again May Be I Did Not Understand.
    Because I Learn All My Life I ''ll Love To Learn Your System ,taech Me And Show Me.if It Is Better And Eassier Than Mine I''ll Go With It And Teach It To The Others.
    U Realy Think That I ''calculate '' All The Time It Was Only To Explain The Simplicity Of The System The Moment U Understand It It Goes Outomaticaly.
    The Phrase - Each To His Own Eh ? - Privents U From Learning Something New. And To My Opimion It Is Not A Nice Way To Put It
    I Want To Learn Your System Do U Want To Learn Mine ?
    Hofi

  2. STRIN
    U MISSUNDERSTOOD ME!!!
    not eassy to explain the system with a mail not only because of my poor english.
    ican forge 8-10'' long point on 5/16-3/8'' round or squer steel in one heat!
    I NEVER STSRT A TAPER OR A POINT WITH THE FAR END (THE POINT) I ALWAYS START IN SIDE AND MOVE FORGING TO THE POINT.
    THE LENGTH OF THE POINT IS VERY EASSY TO CALCULATE BECAUSE WE KNOW THAT THE RATIO BETWEEN THE CONE IN THE CILINDER AND THE CILINDER IS 1/3 TO 2/3 IF I WANT TO FOEGE A 6'' PONT I LEAN THE STEEL ON THE FAR A BIT ROUNDED ADGE OF THE ANVIL 2'' IN THE AIR IN THE ''RIGHT ANGLE AND FORGE WITH THE HAMMER WHEN THE HAMMER IS A 1/3 OUT OFF THE ADGE OF THE ANVIL AND TURN THE STEEL 90 DEGREES EVERY 2 SWINGS OF THE HAMMER TO THE SAME DITECTION AND PULL THE STEEL TO MY SIDE EVERY TURN IN THIS SYSTEM THE ANVIL AND THE ''MANAGING ''HAND ARE MAKING THE ''JOB''. BY GORGING THIS WAY U DUBLE FULLER THE STEEL U MOOVE THE METAL FAST CREAT HIGH FRICTION AND HEAT AND U FINISH THE 6-7-8 10'' POINT IN ONE HEAT!!!!
    SOME TIMES U CAN NOT GO TO THE OTHER SIDE OF THE ANVIL AND U MUST FORGE THE POINT ''ON'' THE ANVILE FACE, THEN COMES SYSTEM NO 2
    AGAIN I START FROM THE INNER SIDE AND NOT FROM THE POINT.
    LET US SAY I WANT TO FORGE A 41/2'' LONG POINT I FORGE WITH THE HAMMER TILTED 40 DEGREES OUT 11/2'' FROM THE END OF THE STEEL AND FORGE IN THIS PLACE AND SOME THING VERY INTERESTING IS HAPPENIN BECAUSE OF THE REACTION THE FAR END OF THE STEEL WIL COME UP (RAISE) from the anvil 1/32'' and when u forge again after u turend it 90 degrees it will rais again and so on until u finish the point or the ''punch'' in this way also the steel n e v e rb tuches the anvil and u can forge for a long time creat and priserv the heat for a long time.
    hope it is clear this time
    HOFI

  3. ALAN
    IF U WAnt to forge a pouint or a punch u have to hold the steel on the anvil with your managing hand when the angle of the steel to the anvil is half of the futuer angle , means if the futuer angle is 5 degrees u hold it 2,5 degrees from the anvil . doing that and whil forging u turn the managing hand 90 degrees back and force all the way down to the end of the taper u will get a tapered squer.
    u have to decide before what will be the OD of the punch. we know that the squer i volume is having 22,3 % more matirial then the round so u must forge it in a way that the squer on the end of the punch will be smaller accordingly then when u forge thw corners to 8 then to 16 and rounr it with the hammer u get the pland OD. USUALLY I forge it a bit bigger and the grind on the belt grinder to the finel OD. HOPE IT WILL HELP.
    HOFI

  4. thanks a lot to every one on the IFI JUST RETUREND YESTERDAY FROM germany AND TOK MY SON BACK HOME HE IS BETTER NOW AND HOPE FOR THE FUTUER TOO !!!!!!!!!
    THANK YOU ALL VERY MUCH AGAIN FROM ALL MY HURT
    HOFI

  5. As Some Of You Reffered To Me And My System. I Just Want To Make It More Clear. My Anvil Hight Is 321/2'' (830 Mm) Which Is My Knuckle Hight. This Gives Me The Possibility To Stand Straight Up Not Bending My Back And Get Max Swing For The Hammer And With This Max Valocity And Forging Power And No Damaging My Back.

    It Is Also Very Interesting That The 32 1/2'' Hight Is Sutable For 85% Of The People, Leonardo De Vinci In The Medivle Time Found Allready Withe The ''vitrubien Man '' That Eaven If The Hight Of The People Is Different When You Put Your Hands Down They Will Meet In The Same Place With Very Little Difference. In My School ''all'' The Anvils Are In The Same Hight Only If Some One Have Longer Legs Or Shorter Hands Or The Eye Sight And The Glases Are Not In Focus Then I Change The Hight With Pieces Of Wood. And For The Knuckles-- With The Way I Hold -guide The Hammer I Never Never Touch My Knuckles With The Anvil It Maks No Different What Hight Of Anvil It Is (see My Bp On How To Hold The Hammer) And I Was Forging And Demonstrating On Many.

  6. To ''make It Look Medivel'' Take The Flet Steel U Choose Heat Up Hammer The Bar Brake The Corners And Take Away The Industrial Straight Lines , Take A Chisel And Incise With The Chisel Lines On The Two Sides Of The The Flat Steel 3/16-1/4 '' From The Edge Along The Bar Make A Rivet Joinary Brush With Steel Brush In Low Rev , And When Finished Wax It, Good Luck Hofi

  7. Hello Mike
    Sikaflex 11 fc pu base glue.
    I use the Sikaflex to glue the handles to the hammer head also.
    U can go on '' Sikaflex usa " and you will find many other polyurathane base glues. And I think to day they have a stronger one that I can not get in Israel. May be in the USA look for Hra50

    If you want in the future to be able to take the anvil apart from the base, smear the anvil with a very thin layer of any oil. From the point of view of the noise it will work the same.

    Hope it is clear . Thank you for asking
    Hofi

  8. Hellom Bruce
    Both Uri And Hofi Are Very Much Ok No Offence What So Ever.
    My Feirst Name Is Uri The Femily Name Hofi Some Times I Sigen Withthe Feirst The Second Or Both.
    As For The Tungsten Chisel; No Forging Is Possible. Only Grinding And No Heat Tritment Is Needed The Netueral Hrc When Cold Is 49-51
    When Hot 45 And Because Ir Is Not Steel It Is Another Element There Is Very Little Friction Btween The Steel And The Chisel And It Will Cut In The Steel In The Tem Of 1700 Degrees Like Butter.
    There Ar Two Types Of Tungsten -the Soft On That I Use And The Hard One That Is 70=72 Hrc Very Brital Whice U Can Not Grind Only With Diamonds Cald- Widia Or Hrd Metal Or The Proffetional Name '' Backed Carbides''
    Best Regards

    Uri+hofi= Uri Hofi

  9. BRUCE
    I NEVER SAID THAT THE JACK HAMMER REAR AXEL CAR MOTOR EXOUST VALVES STEEL IS NOT GOOD FOR HOT CUTTING OR PUNCHING U CAN USE THEM BUT U LL HAVE TO COOL THEM MORE OFTEN I MY SELF USED THEM AS A BEGINER AND THEY WORKED ALRIGHT.BUT AS A PROFFETIONAL I AM LOOKING FO THE BEST FOR INSTANCE TO DAY I PUNCH AND CHISLE MY HaMMARS AND AXES EYES WITHE A PURE TONGSTEN CHISLE THAT COSTS
    ON THE MARKET PRICE 75$ 2.2 POUNDS BUT I FORGE HUNDREDS OF EYES NOW WITH THE SAME CHISLE WITH NO SHARPENING AT ALL !!!!
    HOFI

  10. Ed I Agree With U 100% That Grinding Wheel Is Not The Right Way To Shap Wood ,i Just Wanted To Showw Another Way To Do It.

    Chris Thank Very Much For Your Offer But As I Mentioned In The Bp I Get The ''ipe'' Wood Free From A Carpenter Freind That Uses The Wood A Lot For Beutifull Funituer Production
    Hofi

  11. Tim
    When Forging The Toolsteels You Must!!! Be Very Carefull With The Forging Temp !!! S1 H13 M2 M4 And Also 1045 1050 1060 And On 4140 4340 Do Not Like To Be Forged On Higher Temp Then 1800 Degrees And Not Lower Then 800.
    If U Go Higher U Creat Big Particals In The Steel And If U Do Not Normalize It It Will Be Brittal And Brake. U Degredate The Steel And Normalising Is A Very Long And Costly Proces And Not Eassy For The Blacksmith.
    Forging Under 800 Degrees Create Iner Cracks In The Steel That U Do Not See While Forging But The Moment U Quench The Cracks Will Show And The Tool Will Brake When Used.
    It Is Not Eassy To Maintain The Right Temp With Our Forges But Again It Is A Must!!! U Save A Lot Of Time And Mony If U Forge In The Limit Of The Rules Of Metalurgy.
    I Agre With Every Word Of Hwoolridge

    Hofi

  12. I Do Not Think That Pro's Or People That Use Many Different Tools
    Can Depend On Broken Jackhammer Steel.
    I Use Mainly S 1 And H 13 . I Have Punches And Chisels That I Forged 15 Year Ago Still Going Strong ,to My Opinion Both Of Them Are Very Similar From The Heat Resustance Point Of View With A Little Adsvance For The H13. If You Can Get M4 And M2 They Are Even Better.

    Uri Hofi

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