metal99

Pretty nice man :) Planning on putting anything on the handles?

Nice work on them knives man! I have to learn how to make shieths yet :)

Hey everybody, I kinda had a crappy day at work today when I found out the glue was almost $100.00 a tube. . . So here is what I did. I took the anvil ouside and sandblasted the mating faces on the break. After bringing the anvil back into the shop the moisture started to build up and I noticed there were actually a number of tiny rust pits that the sand blaster wouldnt get out so I used the O/A torch to heat up the whole anvil eavinly just so it was nice and warm to the touch and let it cool off for a while to make sure the moisture was gone. Then I grabbed some phosfuric acid for eating rust and treated the pits and followed that by another quick blast with my spot blaster. I used copper rich weld through primer to seal off the serfaces. I did a V grind all the way around so I had about a 90 degree notch when put together 1/2 inch ish wide and about the same deep. I grabbed the torch and warmed it up all the way around the notch so it was pretty hot and then tacked it into place. I thought I had the groove deep enough to do a multi pass weld but I was wrong, with the 230 amp mig cranked right up and a slower wire speed it still nearly filled the groove with one pass but it was penetrating and really melting into the edges so I believe it should hold. Then I grabbed the torch and kept it nice and hot with some cold rags on the face for about fifteen minutes and just let it cool down on its own. Hope the mig will stick well, I'm kind of worried about having the groove to small. It lost just a tiny bit of the ring but honestly still hurts the ears alot. It bounces a ball bearing very well and doesnt change much throughout the face.

I started cleaning it up a bit after I welded it. I ground all the pits out of the horn and buzzed the rust off of the face. I'm not sure what to do with the face tho, its got a number of small dings in it and has a bit of a wavy spot in the middle. I don't need it perfect but I do want it fairly straight so I was thinking. . . maybe a belt sander? Just to help keep it straighter when sanding out the pits? I tried my 8 inch grinder on it with a soft pad and 60 grit but the soft pad just follows the waves and stuff. Or should I just take it to a machine
shop and get it planed? I think that might be a bit pricy tho.

How much do you think the value is affected by the broken off base? The reason I ask is if its already dropped to almost nothing I was thinking of sand blasting the whole thing and then a hard wire brush to get that nice grey graphite look. Or should I just leave the patina alone and just clean it up with a wire brush? Sorry for blabbing so much. . . just kinda bored and dont have any body to share this hobby with here lol.

Metal99, I would indeed say that your fancy has been tickled. You have been given specific instructions by 2 competent welders. Sorry if I sound harsh but give it a try.

Your not being harsh man its all good, I understand where every one is coming from and why welding is going to be a definate fix. I just have some faith in the panel bonding adhesive after seeing the tests done on the stuff. We took two 18 guage peices of sheet metal 1x2" rectangles and overlaped them one inch with panel bonding adhesive. After that was dry we hooked the frame maching up to each end of the metal and pulled on it with the 10 ton ram. When the guage reached almost 8000 psi there was a huge bang and the chains fell to the ground only to discover that the metal tore in half just ahead of the clamp. That was from one square inch of bonding area so with an anvil that has a waist that has about 20 square inches of area to be bonded it just makes me wonder what kind of force it really would take to bust it. We also did the same tests on the same size sheet metal but we welded them together with four plug welds and they tore apart at the welds. Another test was done with the edges welded and they also tore right beside the welds where the heat affect zone was. I'm not meaning to argue with you guys but I honesty have some faith in this glue. If I get it welded I have to wait to find somebody to weld if for me for a price. If I glue it I can do it tomorrow at work. If the glue breaks I will still be able to weld it after that. I'm going to try the glue out first, not trying to upset anybody here I just have to see what its going to be like. I will keep you guys posted and let you know how it goes. I really do appreciate everybodys advice and time taken to help me out here.

Good cleaning first, grinding a good v notch in both halves, mild heating with a O/A torch, then clamping. Tack weld all corners, then weld multiple passes. Good technique is vital here. If you are not a good welder, find someone who is. Stick welding, or flux cored MIG is how I would go. Then slow cooling of the weld area. Wet rags will keep the face cool. The rest of the anvil body will absorb the heat. Stay away from glue!

Hmm, I can weld no problem with a mig, I have never stick welded before. How many amps do you think it would take with a mig? I have access to a 200 amp mig its not flux core and only has .023 wire so I'm asuming that its not going to be a good choice for the job right? Just tickle my fancy here. . . why no glue? lol Its honestly VERY strong

Wet rags on the face will protect the temper just fine. Keep the rags wet and all will be good. The face can tolerate more heat that that though. You can always take more pictures... Phil

So you dont have to pre-heat the anvil to weld it? I'm a welder or sorts but nothing more then sheet metal and plastic :) I dont want to weld it with the little mig welders we have here. I'll ask around about a good stick welder. So you dont need special rods to weld them together? I havent heard of cast steel so thats why i'm asking. I know for cast iron you need different rods right? I will get some pictures of it tomorrow and put them up. The big reason why I want to glue and bolt it is because if I use the adhesive we have at work its rated for 10000 psi breaking point and although a weld is stronger you have less area welded then would be glued. Unless a full penatration weld has been done but honestly thats beyond me.

Or don't look at all. I find things (that I previously looked for & couldn't find) fall in my lap when I do that. Funny how that works.

Ya man :) seems to be the case every time

Its broken at the smallest part of the waist. I'll think about it for sure but at least with glue I can re do it. I will get a better picture of it posted on monday. I shouldnt have had them stacked up like that when I took the pictures but at the same time I didnt know I was going to come across the anvil section on here.

I would personally arc weld them together. Quick, relatively easy and effective. That's how they used to build the later Trentons. There is a member of the blacksmith guild in Saskatoon that owns a tool-making business in Hague. He would probably be able to give you some good guidance.

I understand that they were welded together in the factory but I'm just scared of messing up the temper of the face. Where it broke off is only 1/16" above one of the stamps and I really didnt want to mess them up. I think I might know who your talking about in Hague but I cant remember his name. My dad has a lot of friends from around there and a few friends on mine are from Hague. Another reason I want to stay away from welding them together is the fact that I will have an empty space in between. At least with the jb weld in there it will have full contact with the base and the bolt will help prevent the glue from seperating. At least I can give that a shot and if it fails I can still have it welded.

I've been a member here for about four years now but really have not been active. I should have posted here a long time ago but honestly didnt know there was a place for this.

I am fairly new and very green in blacksmithing but I do have a long background of auto body work. I have fabricated some fairly large patch panels for rust repair on vintage cars and trucks. I have always been a hands on kind of guy, I get that from my dad. My dad and I build guitars and have been doing so since I was really small. Dad has tought me pretty much everything I know about wood working and alot about metal. I have been reading about bladsmithing for about 4 or 5 years now and have just finished my first forged knife. I cant wait to make bladesmithing a full time hobby to share with my Son and my Dad.

Julius.

I have found anvils relatively easy to find in Saskatchewan. They are quite common at farm auctions around here. Do you know which auction he bought the anvils at?

Hey Mark, I found out what auction it was. It was the Klien estate sale just east of Hepburn sk. Not sure on the date tho but I believe it was last summer.

I have found some anvils but there pretty pricy. There are some on kijiji right now for around 5 dollars a pound and highter.

Kinda what I was thinking. There are even some 100-150 pounders on there for 5-600 dollars. I dont understand what makes people think there worth so much. If it wasnt for the shipping I would just buy one from ebay because at least there selling for the 3 ish dollar a lb mark. Thanks for looking you guys. I wont waste my time or his by replying to his add now. I just wanted another oppinion on it.

Every single anvil on kijiji around here is about five dollars a pound . . . To me that is insane! I paid $40 for my 75 lb trenton wich was a good deal but still

I have a 75 (I think) pound Trenton but do want a bigger one. I came across this on kijiji but I think the price is through the roof! What do you guys think?

http://alberta.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-sell-art-collectibles-Anvil-Peter-Wright-W0QQAdIdZ359462739

Wow the face on that anvil is in really nice shape! Any ideas on the make? Not an anvil expert but it sure looks like a great anvil!

I agree with it being a Trenton. My Trenton has the same handling holes and besides the length is the same shape. My makers mark is facing you with the horn to the right (I think) lol

Thats really nice man, does the vinager etch help prevent rust?

Note that Trentons did NOT have a cast iron base they were cast steel. Makes a big difference when welding! Not as good a grade of steel as the tops but still steel. Is there a local VoTech school where you might get it welded up as a class project?

Not sure if I want it welded anymore because of the chances of loosing the temper on the face.

They are attached together in that picture. Are they just stacked? Is it welded? If it is welded, why do more to it at this time? What is the extent of the damage? Phil

No man there not attached together, the top is just sitting on the base. It has some remains of arc welds on the base but as Sask Mark stated above they did this at the factory.

It would be a monster job, but could you drill up from the bottom and then tread and bolt that way?

I think that exactly what I'm going to do, I'm going to drill out the base and tap the top so I can bolt it all together and glue it at the same time with some jb weld.

Sorry I dont have any pics of them appart right now, the anvil is at work but I will get some posted on monday. Thanks for all the help you guys. Its nice to be part of a forum like this with so many nice people.

I have no idea what maken it is, but for $50 I thought it didn't matter.

Thats a good deal man!!! Besides the flat secions on the feet it really looks like a trenton.

I think my problem was with the blade being lift with the oil from my hands on it. I usually clean my carbon steel blades and use a light gun oil on them but I was tired to after sharpening it I just put it away and left it. I'll so dome more tests with it and see.

the torsion bar is found on fairly new Chevy's and Dodge trucks. You cant see the bar unless you take the tail gate off. Time will tell if it will be a good blade. If nothing els I have a fancy knife shaped letter opener :)

@Jeddly, Thanks for the nice comment!

Thanks everybody! I am a bit concerned on how well it is going to hold an edge tho, I had it shaving-hair topping sharp last night and just from sitting over night it barely shaves today. . . I have seen this happen with some other knives of mine but it took longer then over night. Might be the price I pay for playing with unknown steels lol. What syle of knife would you guys call this? To me it has a bit of an old hunter look to it but at the same time maybe a pirate steak knife? What do you think?

Thanks man! My dad and I just went to the bush and picked up half a trailer load of spalted maple burl and some maple with nice white rot stains red and brown ribbon streaks throughout. The next knife I make I am going to use some of the spalted maple burl. Do you have anything in mind for your handles?

Its not set up anywhere yet because I have to fix it but here is my fourty dollar Trenton made in 1899 75-100 lbs not sure what I havent thrown it on the scale yet.

Here are a few pictures of the process. Hope you enjoy!!!

Hello everybody, I just wanted to show everybody my first actual knife.
A little about me. My name is Julius, I have been tinkering with knife making since I was about nine or ten years old. I have always been a hands on type of guy and have never been afraid of new things. I am an apprentice at an autobody shop and have been in the trade for about 10 years. This is the very first actual knife that I have made.

A little about the knife. I forged the blade out of a chevy truck tailgate torsion spring so I have no clue what kind of steel it is. I did a few tests with it to see how hard it would get and what the best temperature would be to draw a usable temper with. After I found the hardness I wanted I did a little destruction testing with the steel and had very good results so I decided it was probably going to work well for a knife. The rod was about 5/16 around so I forged a hidden tang knife with a 4 1/4 inch blade. I welded a stud onto the end of the tang so I didnt have to peen the base on. I made the finger guard and base out of brass stock. The handle is a 1/16 inch thick of rosewood laminated inbetween two ebony scales. For spacers I used un-stabilized deer antler from one of my Dads small bucks. The handle was wet sanded with minwax tung oil finish up to 2000 grit then hand buffed with cotton. All of the polishing was done by hand on my strop after sanding up to 3000 grit sand paper.

There are quite a few things that bug me about this knife but for the first one I guess its gotta do. Because the antler was not stabilized the pores filled up with the slurry from wet sanding the tung oil in so that kinda bugs me. Other then that a good machine polish would probably fix it up.

I sharpened up the blade today so I can put it to the test and see how it holds up!!! I tempered the blade at 450 for 2 hours then did a little file test, the file was still skating off the blade. The next temper was done at 500 for 1 hour and it gave me what I was looking for. A nice hard blade that would be easily sharpenable.

Let me know what you guys think!! Hope the picture quality is ok, I didnt realize that the camera was set to 3mp . . . Any advice will be greatly abreciated.

Julius