David Edgar

very lifelike, wonderful.

Get a 2nd bit of stock similar diameter,  lay them side by side, get a straight edge  and scrape over the top of the 2 lengths, This will give you a center line to measure on. Over 30 years I made 1000's of sand blasters made from tube, worked every time.

I am having trouble putting this up as a separate topic, so I will put it here in case .

do hydraulic rams make acceptable tools?

Thanks in advance.

On 10/20/2010 at 7:39 PM, Francis Trez Cole said:

My 2 cents: I used vermont america and norton in the past the vermont's run about $8.00 each. I bought some harbor freight blades and they lasted 3 to 1 I was cutting 1" bar stock. They proformed much better cutting and about $1.50 each. also you should check the stop gague your motor can go down to the vice and I have put blockes under the blade this will give you a few more cuts.

Francis, were you running the same number  of teeth for the 1" bar stock on the HB as in the Vermont and Norton?

where do you get the collars from for your fly press tooling?  my spigots are1" dia.

On ‎12‎/‎01‎/‎2016 at 12:49 AM, John McPherson said:

Food grade citric acid from a health food/canning supply store is strong enough to passivate SS overnight, if you use hot water to dissolve it.

Or blast it with a non ferrous media.

here was  me thinking of shimming it up.

Thank you all for your replies, Sorry for the  late response I got a new computer and it has more foibles than the old one

just have to find a nice shaper with super vice

David

I heard some good advice on the TV the other night  ,Old guy to young guy, Don't train for anything that you are not prepared to do all day every day.

Thank you all for your replies. It looks like the mill is favourite but the shaper could do it,  but its use for other jobs would be limited. The taper is the part of the equation which I am struggling to get my head around with a shaper.

Thanks again

David

Anybody out there cut tapered dovetails for their dies? I was thinking about buying a milling machine, but this is the only job I have for it at the moment.

Grant mentioned a few years ago that a shaper was a good tool for that job,it would be a lot cheaper.

Does a machinist know the best way to do this? Perhaps I shall just save up my pocket money and buy some dies.

The narrow top die is why it is good at stretching or drawing out. Try turning your work 90 degrees along the length of the die and see the difference.

bookmarked, downloaded and printed out.

thanks david.

Thanks Alan and Kozzy for all that great info, I really need to build up a bigger selection of blades, starting tomorrow I can have confidence in ordering a coarser blade 80 or 90 teeth to cut the bar I want.It has reinforced the fact that I cannot stick any blade in and hope it will do for everything. I shall bookmark this page to be able to refer to it when necessary.

Thanks again very much for going to the trouble.

David

Thanks for the replies lads,Yes the 220 pitch ones are either sharp or new.  As circular blades are not linear, I will mark off 1" on some larger round and count the teeth. I also use Rocol cutting fluid but diluted.I just keep adding water until the colour looks right.

 How many teeth do you run in yours Alan?

I use most methods to cut mild steel bar to size, from cut-off disc, small band saw, ironworker, which only goes to 1", my 300mm cold saw cuts tube, pipe, hollow section well with 220 pitch circular blades but struggles with solid. Should I be using a blade with less teeth?  It is a fairly substantial saw with 3ph 2 speed geared motor. I do not think the 3 TPI rule applies with cold saws.

I do not want to use the abrasive cut-off,too much noise& dust.

On 04/09/2016 at 11:05 AM, Dunk_c said:

Hi

is there any way that the tool images can be reposted for this thread?  The images no longer exist when I follow the link on page 1.

I have just read this thread again from start to finish and like Dunc said above it is so disappointing the photos have gone.

I saw them 1st time around but my memory is not that great

Intrex, did you get a Gas Saver made specially for Propane ? Was it more expensive than one for Acetylene ?

I have asked about one described as for use by Oxy-Acetylene if it would work with Propane and 2 suppliers said NO.

Sorry about ressurecting this old thread,but I want to be safe where fuel gas is concerned.

Just noticed this Frosty, best wishes to Deb and you.Make sure she doesn't overdo it, slow but steady is the way.

Personally,I would have preferred a more smiley face to cheer me up. How about a family of them.

other than that well done.

On 30/04/2016 at 1:11 AM, coldironkilz said:

I am not a big fella but I do have large hands and really prefer a used 10 pin bowling ball for my file handles, plus the finger holes give me the extra control I find necessary when I am working on finer projects like pendants.

Just laughed so much I think I wet myself.  I now have this picture in my head of you filing a pendant with a bowling ball in your hand.  LOL

Like they said, Nice piece Michael, so where is the fourth rivet?

I wish I knew what a hob was in this context. The only other hob I know is a gear cutter,

3 hours ago, BIGGUNDOCTOR said:

Same here, I see those used by ironworkers. Alignment drifts.

Here in the UK they are known as Podgers  by platers and boilermakers, Anyway it wasn't them I was referring to.

4 minutes ago, JHCC said:

Marlinspike.

Those are the fellows, my feeble brain thanks you JHCC

On 18/04/2016 at 1:32 AM, Jim Coke said:

Greetings ,

Never pass on a great deal.. You may not need more tools but they make great gifts for worthy students .. I do not go out of my way to find things I guess I'm just lucky..!  Below the whole pile for under 20 bucks.. 

Forge on and make beautiful things

Jim

 

Jim, WOW, what a buy.Those handled punches are worth way more than that alone and those 4 bottom pointy things, not the podgers, (cannot remember the proper name) are ideal for splicing ropes..... The name will come back to me when I least expect it. Well done.