Chrispy

Manothewoods, Welding clean metal is easier but is not essential if you are just knocking up a non structural forge or framework. However in saying, traces of slag deposits from previous welds can be a curse if trying to fill holes etc. it acts like a volcano and keeps spewing out leaving the same hole your trying to fix. Use a scribe to remove the deposit and your well on your way. but less time cleaning up the steel initially unless its loose crusty rust which will result in crappy and weak welds.

Manothewoods,
The answer to your problem is simple. "Get rid of the magnetic Welding Clamps". They are pulling the liquid metal (molten weld) away from the joint. I am a reasonable welder and I have experienced the same problem some years back. Try holding them or clamping them into position with a G clamp or locking pliers and tack weld the ends and a few spots in between if it is to be a long weld. Remove your clamps and start welding as you normally do. Looking at the pictures it's hard to be exact but the travel speed looks to be a little fast. Start away from yourself and work towards yourself not dragging the electrode but letting it collapse with heat naturally. Once you have established the correct speed on a scrap piece, then start with your weaving motion to widen the fillet and stitch the 2 pieces together. Also lay the material on it's back as it is much easier to weld horizontal. If you can't do that Vertical Up welds are the go but you have to travel much quicker and watch out for the molten slag blobs getting in your boots. Good luck. ps Welding magnets are good for holding up your paper plans to the side of your tin shed or metal door.

Rune,
It is also as quiet as a church mouse.

Rune,
I have an electric fan on my forge . It is a brush type motor from an old hand drier (the type found in toilets to dry your hands after washing them). Electric brush motors can be speed controlled with a simple speed controller that I made up in kit form from Tandys or Dick Smiths ( electronic shops) for around $30. Gives a good variable range of speeds from a slight trickle to a full blast which holds a ping pong ball hovering over the tuyere. I can't fault it and I picked it up in a scrap yard for free. It came complete with the squirrel cage as well.

Dennis,
I was sure I read somewhere on this blog that someone had used it and I searched everywhere through my history and after hours of rechecking I found that it was you (in your Demo Thingy).
I have heard that Fluid film needs needs to be reapplied on a regular basis and that it never really dries. Great on tools but needs reapplying after handling.
Do a search on the net for parkerising (Parkerizing) sp. It will give a flat to satin black finish. It soaks up oil and will last around 15 years with heavy handling. It is a finish often used on hand guns etc but does involve boiling Phosphoric acid.

Shielding sparks from your bench or pedistal grinder is relatively easy by fitting appropriate gaurds. It's the stray sparks from angle grinders that seem to be attracted to glass from anywhere within your workshop. Some glasiers, Auto stores and security shops offer a protective film that can either be tinted or clear that can be applied directly to the glass. It won't prevent the glass breakage but it stops the zillions of small fragments from hitting the floor (kept intact). It is fairly resilient to sparks depending on how much heat is left in them after travelling across the workshop. It is easilly applied by wetting the window with water and a very small amount of dish washing detergent to allow the film to slip into position. All that is required is to squeegee the bubbles of air from between the film and glass by starting at the centre and working towards the edges. It may appear a bit blurry at first but as it dries it will become clear. It is exactly the same as window tinting that is applied to car windows. The tinted stuff is also helpful in insulating heat from outside. Not sure that it helps much in keeping the cold out. It can easily be removed / replaced by getting under a corner and working it off with a razor blade scraper. It is dirt cheap compared to replacing glass.
Chris.

Tzonoqua,
I'm glad it's your workshop and not mine.... I'd spend all day looking out the window at that beautiful scenery and never get any work done. LOL

Great shop, layout and assortment of tools. ButI think you can do better with your layout table. lol:) I know it all takes time and can see your well on your way to the perfect shop. Yes they are right - "no shop is ever big enough. My shed floor, an extra 48 square metres is arranged to go in mid September then the brickwork straight after. Then there's the big job of laying out the tools to hopefully look as effective as your setup.
Congrats
Chris;)

I Like your rebar. It turned out mush better than I imagines re bar would look' Enjoy your Beeennnnz.

Nice table Bryce. Alt5hough I have a preference to see drawn out ends on scrolls. Love the lamp - most interesting.
ps great safety shoes you have there LOL

Thanks Mark, I've looked on the net for something downloadable to no avail but did find the book listed with Amazon books. I have a friend that is a wizard in finding digitized books, I'll see what he can do for me. Also seriously considering buying the book as you indicated "it has been a Bible for yourself". That's a pretty good recommendation from highly reputable man.

Thanks gentlemen, The information provided has been most helpful. Special thanks to John B as I now have the complete PDF publication of Wrought Ironwork Pt 1 - 6 and The Catalogue of Drawings for Wrought Ironwork in my hot little hands which gives detailed drawings and patterns of what I enquired and a hole lot more.
Ps It's a pleasure knowing there are so many genuine folks willing to help each other out and keep this tradition alive.
Cheers Chris

Thanks John, I can always count on you good people coming up with the goods. I found a link in the gallery with a more accurate picture. I'll try my luck with the book but if anyone in the meantime has a template / pattern, my email address is csfuller@adam.com.au

Heres the link.

Thanks fellas. I found a suitable pattern on the artmetal web site. Thanks for giving me the name of the leaf "Acanthus" - most helpful.

Thanks Glenn,
The only picture I have is a very poor quality shot emailed to me in a pdf format. I searched Elite Wrought Irons catalogue on the net and was able to find an image that will suffice. Unfortunately the product from EWI is made from 0.8 mm thin tin which is way too light for my application. Thanks all the same , I will keep your info at hand and upload a few of my pics to the gallery soon. ;)

Attached is a rough picture of the leaf thing. It is in the lower right hand corner. It hides the joint of the single lower scroll and the 4 branching scrolls coming out through the top. There are 2 fitted in this application - 1 either side of the joint. What is the name of the leaf and does anyone have a pattern / template that they are willing to share.
I have a job pending that requires 18 in total and am thinking of having them Laser cut from 3 or 4 mm hot rolled sheet. I can figure out how to forge into shape and attach.I'm just looking for a reasonably decorative template (the easy way out) and the correct term for this style of leaf type collaring.
Regards chris:)

yes i have a photo but it's too large to upload it.
No nota vine it is more a flat leaf hammered into a 3 sided clasp that is presumably welded to 1 or both sides of a scroll joint. It is quite decorative and seen from both sides of the gate / fence etc.

I put "cow magnets" under the heel of the anvil. You can get them from your local farm store. Quiets the anvil nicely.

Pardon my ignorance but what are cow magnets?
Chris.

Can anyone help me with the correct term that is used for the style of leaf that is often used to conceal the joints of multiple scrolls. It appears to be a longish style leaf that wraps 3 sides of the joint and is visible and identical from both sides. I thought it was called a florentine.
However I can not find a pattern on the net, books or a BP on how to make them.
Any help will be greatly appreciated, (especially a pattern) then I'm capable of scaling it to suit the needs of the job request.

Chris :)

HWHII,
Some time back I made a 3 spring fullers but before assembling I mig welded rough beads to the inside arches of the half round sections (with the gas turned off to create rough lumpy weld deposits). I assembled the spring fuller and it did an excellent job of texturing (like bark) the 32mm ,25mm and 18mm heavy walled steel pipe (2 metre sections). Constant rotation is required and caution not to over texture it as the pipe can split. The pipe diameter will reduce as can be expected. It made an excellent trunk for a 5.7 metre Monstera Deliciosa sculpture which is now installed on a lift wall in a local old folks home. I'd post a picture except I'm on a mates computer and haven't access to my Pictures. Give it a try - there is very little expence and well worth the effort :-)

Great work for your first try. Won't be long and you'll be a professional LOL

Welcome to IFI. you will find all sorts of interesting stuff on this site and the folks very helpful.

Excellent work Brian, bet your proud of your achievements. And rightly so.

That's what I like to see - persistance. Keep it up - U will get there.

Great stand, I've been contemplating making a steel stand for my anvil but am currently between two minds. Do I scarifice my old tree trunk section which currently holds all my hammers and I assume absorbs a lot of the noise. It also has a few minor splits that are useful for forming leaves cold. Have you compared the noise level on your new stand against a timber block?
Chris.

Really nice bicks, I look forward to making some similar when I get my Power Hammer.