blackgrouse
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Posts
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Yes, I just caught on to what you mean that it would work for a person working alone in the shop because you wouldnt need a helper to hold the upper fuller. Sorry I was slow to pickup on that. -
The spring piece is welded to a square post. This post is inserted into the square hardie hole. The hot forged piece is then placed between the upper and lower rods of the spring fuller. Then you hammer on the top rod which in turn will make a round notch in the piece you are forging. What would work better for holding stuff is what is called a hold fast or hold down. I will be making one shortly and will get back to you. Just do a search for hold fast or hold down.
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A spring fuller and bending fork of my own making.
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Showing how I used my spring fuller that I made to make my first set of tongs. -
Showing how the spring fuller works. -
This is my anvil, a Peter Wright. I was elated to find out that Peter Wright anvils were made in Dudley, England which is the area that my kinfolk are from and have traced back to the Dudley area as far back as the late 1500's. Notice the stamped numbers 0 3 3 which designates my anvil as weighing 87 lbs. The first column is the number of hundredweights, 0 in this case. The second column is the number of quarters of a hw, this case three, 3x28=84. then the final column is lbs, in this case three. So my anvil weight is 84+3= 87 total lbs. -
This anvil was given to me by a close friend who actually wants a farriers anvil. I admired it, apparently longingly and some months later told me to take it home with me.