highlander

thats very high, i pay .25 per pound of steel if i dont have copper to trade, lots of times ill pay with a bucket of scrap copper wire

buddy, i recommend backyard metalcasting for these questions. you will find people that know a lot about these things there.

looking for coal near wilmington delaware... anyone know of a place?

ah thanks Thomas.. we don't have much mining around here, so im not that familiar with the equipment. these ones are brand new. ill just add them to the resource center and maybe ill find a use for em

buddy, read your private messages

Bits for some sort of jack hammer or hammer drill. dont know what i can use them for.....

I got 5 of them.... any ideas?

Try putting window screening over the opening of your flue. It will restrict airflow a bit and keep the bugs and critters out. I dont know, it may restrict too much airflow though. Never tried it, so maybe someone else can put in their two cents.

i dont think you even need a vent for a gas forge..i would say that all you need is a good venting fan in the top eaves

Burning fuel produces carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide. both are deadly in high concentrations, and can do damage in lower concentrations. for working indoors, he is best off with a flue to pull the harmful gases away.

I bought the same set a while ago, quenchcrack, but it was on sale for cheaper.

the handles both looked like they were glued on by a child(glue EVERYWHERE), but they were both rock solid. After some grinding to finish the hammers as i like them, they seem to work well, although i am not used to the short handle of the Hofi style hammer, so i don't use it often. I love the swedish pattern hammer, though.

the vise is very sturdy as is. not rock solid, but i used it today for the first time and it works well for what i need.

I like the fact that i can move it around as i need

how well do these stands work with twisting and scrolling?as I am allways looking for a way to have a portable vice that wont fall over.

havent used it since i finished the stand due to an eye injury. beings that the whole thing weighs 300+ pounds, i would say its pretty sturdy.

post good, clear, close-up pictures of the broken part in question, and that will help us give you the most accurate answer.

I think the handle on my 6" Indian Chief is about 18" or so. It's not a really close tolerance thing.

Frosty

indeed, you are correct. I was trying to get an estimate off my bench vises and couldnt come up with an accurate scale. 18" sounds dandy to me, maybe a little longer. just wanted some input on the average one. thanks very much!

Moulds are made for lead by companies like RCBS and Lyman who supply reloading equipment. They work fine on lead so should be OK unless anybody wants to correct me on this.

lead melts at 621*F
aluminum melts at 1220*F

the cast aluminum lead ingot molds arent designed to take the kind of heat that molten aluminum gives off.

thanks everyone. beings that my vise didnt come with a handle, i cant decide what length to make it. what length is normal? its a 5 1/2 inch jaw.

make it to fit in 2 halves and glue them together

ThomasP, one can never tell what will strike my fancy exactly:) I will try to live up to the expectations:)

do you have more pictures of the helmet hammer?

as per obtaining equipment, read this:
BP0184 Look - See

you dont always need the real deals.

sabre, that is why the hilti te-72 was invented.
thanks for the comments all

I'm pleased with how that turned out.


WOW! Whoever welded that square tubing into the wheel rim must have been a real professional. Filling in a 1/4" gap between the tubing and rim is not for the faint of the heart!

O wait, that was me. :cool:

especially with an AC machine!

4 inch square steel tubing welded into a wheel rim. 1/2" rr tie plate welded on top. rebar studs welded on bottom of tubing to add stability. filled with a full 80lb bag of quickrete and some lead and granite pieces for added weight.

estimated total weight: 300lbs

Now all i need to do is forge a handle for the vise.

Casting ingots

easy to make ingot mold is pictured, just a bunch of angle iron welded in a V pattern. when working with molten metal, be sure you have ALL the safety gear you need.

dont know about cupcake trays, but i know one thing... if your ingot mold is a little bit rusty, then your ingots wont stick to the mold as much as a clean surface. cupcake trays sound like a bad idea to me. they are just stamped together and could come apart with rapid heat change, spilling molten metal all over.

contact moya034 on this site, he does aluminum casting. metalliferous does as well.

Grat job John keep it up. HT details??

i dont know squat about knifemaking, so i just hardened and drew temper to light straw at the blade and purple at the spine