Sask Mark

The serial number is on the front of the foot when you are looking at the anvil with the horn pointed directly at you. It will probably take up almost 1/3 of the width of the front foot (I guess this would depend on the size of the anvil-it is like this on my 100 pounder, probably wouldn't be the case for a 500 pounder)

The best way I have found to remove rust (and see serial numbers and other markings) is with a crimped wire cup brush on an angle grinder.

Boiled linseed oil works for preventing rust. If you use the face of your anvil regularly, I can't see rust being too much of an issue on the face, but I live in a fairly dry area where rust is never much of an issue.

Columbian 4.5", good condition - $30
Columbian 3.75", fair shape, missing mounting plate and spring - $10
Columbian 4", fair shape - $20
Peter Wright 4.5", approx 75 lbs, good condtion - $125
No Name (identical design as the Peter Wright) 7 3/8", 170 pounds, excellent shape - $130

I have the solution to Dale's problem...

YELLOW PLASTIC BEER HARD HAT CAP HOLDS 2 DRINKS NEW - eBay (item 370262548546 end time Nov-18-09 07:31:40 PST)

That is some very nice work!

That anvil is just fine to learn on without any having work done to it. It weighs approx 85 pounds. It is almost identical to my first anvil.

It will work well for you if you don't do any heavy forging.

I'm very happy to hear Frosty is improving. I continue to send my best wishes.

Best of luck to Frosty and Deb.

Frosty is truly a great man. He is very supportive and knowlegable without being the slightest bit arrogant. I truly appreciate his feedback. I only know him from IFI, but I have no doubt whatsoever that if any one of us rang his doorbell unannounced, he would welcome us into his home with open arms.

That looks a lot like the anvil that Mr. Postman refers to as a armorer's anvil on page 28 of Anvils In America.

Amazing! Thank you for the pictures.

Do you know what kind of steel was welded on? Is the intent to finish the anvil (heat treat, grind, finish etc.)?

Vulcans were made by Illinois Iron and Bolt Company (I THINK that's the company name). They are generally considered to be on the lower end of the usable anvils scale. They usually had thinner face plates that didn't stand up to heavy use as well as the more premium brands.

I recently sold a 150 pounder for $175. But the value is quite market dependant.

190892 = 1912 birthdate

Mr. Postman believes the transition from steel face plates occured in 1909.

Very nice work!

Based on the the oval depression in the base, I would guess it is a Trenton.

Trentons usually had their weights stamped on the front of the foot along with the serial number while Hay Buddens usually had their weights stamped on the sides. The serial numbers also indicate the year the anvil was manufactured.

I am the current owner of H-B A35186. It is 125#, and in great shape. I gave $50 for it about 17 years ago. I do not know the age, but it is older than I and will out live me, just like my Little Giant.

There's also a 25 pound LG that is still pretty reasonably priced:

Little Giant 25 Lb Trip Hammer Mechanical Hammer - eBay (item 110436693640 end time Sep-26-09 13:51:46 PDT)

There's also a couple of other LG's and a 200 pound Chambersburg that are all getting up there in price.
Little Giant Blacksmith Trip Hammer - eBay (item 200386861646 end time Oct-02-09 09:13:02 PDT)
25 lb Little Giant Trip Hammer Mechanical Hammer - eBay (item 320317764566 end time Oct-07-09 16:29:50 PDT)
200 Pound Chambersburg Air Power Hammer - eBay (item 170384315464 end time Sep-24-09 12:08:46 PDT)

We have a lot of coal not too far from here too. There are huge draglines supplying 3 large power stations.

Unfortunately, it's not very suitable for smithing. It doesn't generate a lot of heat.

The Saskatchewan branch of the Western Canadian Blacksmith Guild will sell coal to it's members. 50 pound bags are $20.

Thanks Craig. I appreciate the feedback. Actually, I had stability in mind when I built it for the safety factor.

My second piece was a shepherd's hook (with 2 hooks) that I made from 2 3/8" square bars twisitng around each other (with reverses in the twists), then splitting off to form each hook. I never posted any pictures for 2 reasons:

1. It is hard to photograph to show the details
2. I'm not very happy with how it turned out.

Btw, how is that new anvil working for you?

The shape and size of the horn in relation to the rest of the anvil reminds me of some Arm and Hammer anvils I have seen.

They switched to the A designation later on. I can't remember the exact date. I'm pretty sure your anvil wasn't made in 1895.

I can look up the correct date in Anvils in America when I get home tonight if someone doesn't beat me to it.

You do realize that you will have to post numerous pictures of your collection, dont you?

p.s. Welcome aboard and good luck with your leg.

A lot of Hay Buddens have a number stamped on the heel like yours does.

Is there a serial number on the front of the feet?

I have to say that when I first read the title of this thread I said to myself 'Hey, I thought this was a family based forum, what is he whipping out?'.

Seriously though, what an amazing piece!

Dr. H, ever since the early 90's when I watched your video of the making of the ladder patterned dagger, I became fascinated in blacksmithing (I guess my wife should be talking to you about my 'obsession'). You made it look soooo easy.

Please keep on posting the pictures of your unbelievable pieces to give amateurs like me something to aspire to.

Could you just use adhesives like Sika (a la Mr. Hofi) or a bed of silicone to attach it to the base?