Sask Mark

Thanks for the feedback everyone. It is duly noted and I will keep it in mind for future projects.

Isn't 15n20 a higher nickel alloy? If so, then what about hot bluing it? I think the 15n20 will not take the bluing so it will give a nice contrast, and the 1084 will be somewhat protected from oxidizing.

Thanks for the kind words everyone.

Mick, I see your point. Part of the problem (besides having more suitable material) is my lack of a prior design before I just start forging. I never relly know what something is going to look like until I'm done.

I just finished this up today. I just winged this one as well.

The base is made of 1" bar, the 'spindles' are 3/8" bar, and the top is 1/4" plate.

I'll be sending it off to the fellow that sold me my big leg vice. He seemed really interested when I told him I was setting up a blacksmith shop. He went through a lot of hassle to ship me a 170 pound vice without charging any extra, so I'm trying to return the favour.

Feedback welcome. Please be gentle as it's my 3rd piece

Thank-you.

Just an aside, I had an opportunity to watch the world championships and the Calgary Stampede about 4 years ago. The top farriers in the world compete there.

It was an absolute pleasure to watch these guys. I don't know anything about shoeing, but I could appreciate what these guys do day in and day out.

Sparwood is down by Crowsnest Pass and Fernie.

The IFI member Daryl uses metallurgic coal. I think he buys it bulk from B.C.

Yes it smell bad, but it is Lactic acid and surfactants per the MSDS.

I had assumed that it was a mineral acid myself until I looked up the MSDS.

I made the origonal posting (http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f21/maybe-better-way-remove-rust-14105/) after I checked it out and looked it up.

Long story short. After my father died my mother kept the shop as he left it.
That included one gallon plastic jugs of muriatic acid sitting in the middle of the floor. Over time the Hydrocloric Acid vapor passes through the plastic and put rust on every piece of exposed steel. I've been in the process of trying to recover the steel with out damaging the steel further. Items like the squares need to be cleaned without obliterating the ruleing lines. That is where CLR really shines. Removes rust with out etching steel.

I believe CLR is phosporic acid with some detergents added, isn't it? It sure smells like the phos acids I used in labs.

Eat more Wheaties.:D

You managed to get a fairly complete setup in one fell swoop for $600? Good catch. Congratulations.

After reading the date thing I got curious. I went out and looked for a serial number on mine. All I could find was a 5660 with a B on its side on the front toe of mine. Was I looking in the wrong place?

Drifter

102 pound Trenton - very good condition $320
100 pound Lakeside (Hay Budden) - good condition $200
88 Pound Peter Wright -decent condition - $75
128 Pound Buckworth - fair condition - $150
150 pound Vulcan - decent/good condition - $100 - sold for $175

The serial number of 52708 means your anvil was manufactured in 1900. It has a wrought iron body with a steel face.

It looks to be in nice condition. Congratulations!

Interesting. Thanks for the info Brian.

I have not yet burned a fire using this coke exclusively so I can't comment on this coke's clinker properties. That being said, a fire pot should last me indefinitely for the amount of times I am actually able to get out to the shop and light the forge.

Does your coke also crackle and spit when it ignites? I believe that this coke is shipped to the U.S. for the production of bbq briquettes.

The next time I make it to the shop I will try to get some video and post it. Then I would really appreciate your well-informed feedback.

I just thought I would give an update on this old thread. I finally tried this coke a couple of weeks ago (sorry I didn't have the camera with me).

The coke that I have seems to still have quite a bit of volatile substances on/in it. When I toss a larger piece on the fire, it crackles and pops for quite a while until the volatiles burn off. A couple of times small pieces explode off (perhaps when a pocket heats up?). A good reminder of why I wear safety glasses.

For the general rudimentary forging that I do it seems to work OK. If you need a clean fire (i.e. welding), I don't know if it would works so well.

I will try to get a video the next time I light up the forge.

I agree with all the above. That is beautiful work!

I just picked up this 128 pound Buckworth anvil. I really didn't know anything about them. I have seen a couple in farm auction listings and one on Kijiji. They are not in Anvils in America.

I turns out they are wrought iron with a steel face. The face is a little dinged up, but I'm not using it for knifemaking.

For those who I have known (FYI), as of this note, I no longer plan on being very active with my opinion in the forums or chatting in the chat room. I am getting a wee bit long in the tooth and I am very tired.
Ted Throckmorton

Wow Swingit! Nice snag! I was thinking that I got a smoking deal on my 170 pounder.

Those are some beautiful leaves and flowers you are creating as well.

That is a classy looking knife. Very nice work!

No problem. It's a beauty! Congrats.

A1752 would be made in 1918 according to Anvils in America (the author gives the range of serial numbers A1-A12,000 being made in 1918).

Yeah she is a ringer. I put that chain on it to keep my neighbors happy. They haven't complained yet, but i want to keep them from complaining. I'm not sure of the year, i can only find marks that say hay budden, brooklyn,ny, and 148. Thanks for the pritchel trick suggestion.

Those are quite the furniture upholstery tacks!