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Thanks for the nice comments guys!!

Nice looking knife but i'm am wondering why you just clayed the center of the blade and did not go for a softer spine?

Bob

Forged 1095 blade, 416 stainless guard and butt cap and stag handle. Thanks for looking

The first piece of damascus I made I used 0-1 and 1018. If I remember right I started with 5 pieces (3-1018 & 2- 01). There are a lot of different combinations of steels you can use, but this is the one I welded first and it will give a medium carbon steel and will have good contrast when etched. I think the key to get good welds is to have your steel clean and flat. I started out trying to make a small billet at first to learn to weld. If your son has success on smaller pieces maybe that will encourage him to stick with it.

Any pictures of your knives to post? This is a great forum with a lot of very good bladesmiths. Thanks, Buddy

Looks like a slight upsweep to the point of the blade, I'd call it a hunter,,?. What ever you call it, that's a good looking blade. Hope to see pics when it's finished. Buddy

Just finished this folder. Blade is forged 52100 about 3" long acid etched finished, Titanium liners bolsters and clip, G10 scales. This one is going in the pocket of a soldier headed back to Iraq very soon. Thanks for looking,

When I make a knife with a tang like yours, I thread the end and screw the butt cap on. I like to have a mechanical force holding the handle on, not relying on just the epoxy, although yours may work fine. Nice blade shape. Hope to see a photo when it's finished.

Love the clean lines! Forgive my ignorance but what does "edc" stand for

Just out of curiosity, did you single or triple quench? Looks superb

They look really nice! I wish I could get as nice a finish on my blades.

Just finished a edc with 52100 blade, flat ground, removeable G10 scales, 6 1/2" overall length. Thanks for looking

Thanks for the extra pic, beautiful workmanship,

This is one I made after MS Terry Vandeventer did a demo. I think the hardest part of this is cutting the slot in the antler and getting it straight. This one has a brass pin and some little copper washers under the pin where it is peened.

You might try a Google search for "heat treating steel". You might find a company nearby that does a small quanity. www.texasknife.com heattreats air hardening steels.

I live in Northeast Ga. You can go to Georgia Custom Knifemakers' Guild - Website News - Knifemaker Identification Assistance and Tutoring needed - News and view the makers map and maybe find someone nearby.

looks great seems to be quite an undertaking to get good clean lines on such a small blade o and what caliber round is that just out of curiosity

Photo of my latest mini. 3" overall length, nickel damascus, mammoth ivory. I know, they are not much use but are a challenge for me to make and I enjoy it. Thanks for looking!

Nice job!!
What cartridge is that? For comparison purposes:-)

Just finished a mini Bowie, nickel damascus and mammoth ivory. Thanks for looking,

Just finished a folder with damascus and exhibition grade pearl. This is a pretty big folder, about 5" closed length. Thanks for looking,

Good looking knife! How many layers?

Just finished a damascus and walnut knife. 1095 & 15n20, 416 stainless fittings. Thanks for looking,

what is with this normalize 3 times quench 3 times, anneal 3 times, temper 3 times. If 3 is good why is 6 not better and 12 best?

Normalizing is a function of time AT temperature and then slow cooling not the number of times raised to temperature. According to JPH triple quenching has "some marginal effect on deep hardening steels like 52100 but otherwise is a good way to crack a blade." Tempering is once again a function of time at temperature not the number of times cycled thru the process.

I think it is a good idea to start and stick with one type of steel while learning to forge blades. For large and small knives, I think 5160 would be a good steel.1/4" x 1" bar stock would be a good size to start with. I've made several knives from 5160, and it is one of my favorites, and it's easy to work with. I forge mine at about 1500-1600 degrees. Normalize 3 times, anneal 3 times, quench 3 times(in oil heated to about 160 degrees), and temper 3 times. A Google search for "forging 5160" steel will probably load you with information. Hope tis helps,