Alaric

It's amazing how fast some of these books increase in price when they go out of print.

"The Knight and the Blast Furnace" looks to be on par with "The Celtic Sword" cost wise and easier to find. There seem to be a lot of good reference books that fall in the $300 to $400 range. I wanted this book for the pictures as I don't read German, I wasn't willing to pay $300 plus for it so this was a good alternative for me and I thought I'd pass on the information to anyone else who might feel the same. I'm not familiar with "The Knight and the Blast Furnace" but it looks like I might need to add it to my want list, thanks for the referance.

This book have been mentioned here a number of times and is one of the pricier references. I recently discovered that this book is available from a French book seller as a soft cover reprint. I just received my copy and although I can’t comment on how it compared to the original as I’ve never seen a copy it is a very well done reprint. The site is in French but IE11’s built in translator made it possible for me to place an order and the person I communicated with did so in English, all automated emails were in French. The price was 39 Euros, shipping was a little pricy at 25 Euros, total cost to me $90.48 through PayPal. I won’t post a link do to forum rules but if anyone is interested I found it through a Google search or you can contact me via PM and I’ll share the link (unless that is also not allowed). Richard

My plan is to run a bead of structural adhesive around the back gluing the backing board to the inside edge of the frame, similar to the way a lot of old pictures were taped into their frames.

I like the idea of riveted corners and it would fit with the cap screws I plan to use on the machine made frames but if the frames are made up of flats how would you mount the picture? I figure I need at lease a 1/4 “ recess to hold the Glass, Mat, picture and backing. My forge welding skills are great, I’ve done a handful of successful welds. I’ll have to give Iron Mountain Flux a try. I did search the galleries, forum and Google but didn’t come up with much, searching on "blacksmith mirror" and "blacksmith picture frame" did turn up some ideas.

Has anyone ever done picture frames? I need a to make a bunch of frames for a project one set will be machine made and will contain machine tool related images and the other needs to be forged and will contain blacksmith related images. Since I need to make around 10 of each I am looking for a fairly simple design for each type. I think I have the machine made frames worked out but I'm still looking for Ideas for the Forged ones. All frames for each type will be made the same and they will be 11 X 14. Thanks, Richard

Thanks Thomas, I have just registered at swordforum and will spend some time reading what is there. Richard

I've added both books to my want list and I think I may spend a lot of time at archive.org. Thanks Richard

LastRonin - Information on any type would be welcome but I’m mostly interested in the larger one. I am familiar with the shorter one being called pesh-kabz but have never seen a name use other than Khyber used to describe the longer variety. Gergely – I had discovered that site in my search for information and am in the process of purchasing one of the items: http://www.oriental-arms.com/item.php?id=5694 The seller claims it is late 19th century, it would be nice if I could find information that would let me confirm if that is correct or not once I have it. My goal other then learning about things I find interesting is to make one at some point and I want to gather enough information to try and do it accurately. If there are any books that cover these in any detail I would love to know, I like books as much as I like knives. Thanks for the responses, Richard

Does anyone know where I might find information about Khyber knives? Historical, Technical, Evaluating, pretty much any information would be welcome. Thanks, Richard

I got the steel back from the Fab shop where I had it water jetted. Here are a couple of pictures showing what I started with and where I am now. The smallest block turned into the anvil on the right, the next to largest block turned into the anvil on the left and the 2 blocks it is sitting on which will become post anvils. I will be machining all the surfaces flat and square to each other and cutting Hardy and pritchel holes. In the spring I hope to heat treat the tops of them. Richard

Several actually, I've given up on doing it myself and the steel is currently at the Fab shop getting cut. I'll post pictures once I get it back. Richard

I cut 1” and under fairly regularly and have cut up to 2” but never anything like this. I had no trouble getting the cut started but it only cut about 3” deep and the tip overheated very quickly. I assume I wasn’t getting enough gas flow and the flame was burning in the tip. I’ve pretty much resigned myself to having it cut by the local Fab shop, their water jet can only handle up to 6” but they can flame cutting it. I suppose I could have at it with the Sawzall but I might die of old age before I finished.

Prior response was in regards to using propane. I would love to have a band saw of sufficient size to cut this but it would crush me Taiwanese 4"x5" saw

If I can't do it with the equipment I have I'll have the local Fab shop cut it for me. I don't see myself doing this very often but I would be nice to have the ability.

Straight lines for now, then 2 "U" cuts 3" deep through the 6.5". No track or wheel but I was using a guide. Richard

The cross section is 10.5" X 6.5", length on the piece I'm trying to cut at the moment is 32". I'd be burning through the 6.5" and cutting for 10.5". Richard

I have some 10.5” X 6.5” 4340 I need to cut, I would be interested in any advice I can get on the subject or if there is anyone in my area that I could bribe into giving me a hand with that would be even better. I made one attempt at it so far and it didn’t go all that well. I have a Smiths HD-300T torch kit that Smiths says is up to the task and am using a #5 tip with 10psi Acetylene and 70psi Oxygen. I’m 20 miles north of Portland, Maine Thanks, Richard Chase

That’s the one. I understand the idea that something is worth what you’re willing to pay for it, I was mostly trying to get an idea what it might sell for. Turns out the answer is $610.00, what was he asking for it in his shop? I ended up dropping out of the bidding when I scored 2300lb of 4340 in the form of 3 6.75"X10.5" bars in varying lengths that will allow me to proceed with some experiments in anvil making I have been wanting to try. Richard

I suspected there might not be a clear answer to this question but I thought I'd ask. Richard

Do saw makers anvils typically sell for more, less or the same as a comparable weight and condition London pattern anvil? I'm looking at a saw makers anvil and I have no idea how to value it. Thanks, Richard Chase

He can be hard to get a hold of by email it took me a couple of weeks of repeated emails before I got a response. Mine didn't bounce I just got no reply, when I did get a response he said he had been having email issues and he responded quickly to my subsequent emails. I placed and order on line and received it exactly when I expected to based on it being shipped the next day so he ships promptly. I never tried calling, you might try that. Richard

The 36” bar was just intended an example of something longer than the anvil is tall for a mental visual. I can see where this could be an issue but it hasn’t been for me and as I said I have other options with my 2 other anvils. The issue could also be resolves in both the GS and Peddinghaus anvils but drilling holes in the base the same size or slightly larger and directly under the hardy and pritchel holes, assuming you could bring yourself to drill holes in nice new anvil. I also really liked the Peddinghaus. Richard

I was replying at the same time you were, not sure how I managed the double post.

John, I just reread you post and think I misunderstood what you where saying about the hardy and pritchel holes being over the base, If you are saying that you can’t pass say a 36” rod through the top of the anvil through either the hardy or pritchel and pull it out the bottom because it would run into the anvil base then that may be true but I’ve never found it to be an issue. Richard