• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Alaric

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Southern Maine
  1. These are true quick connect mounts and when the friend who asked me to do this first brought it up I shared your concern that the whole thing could fold in the middle but he assured me the he knows of quite a few if this exact unit with this conversion done and they hold up fine. They are now tacked in place well enough that I don't have to worry about anything moving around during the rest of the welding. I'll post an update when I'm done. Thanks again, Richard
  2. Here is one of the plates test fit to the plow blade, hopefully this will give a clearer idea what I'm trying to do.
  3. I checked the 7018 rods I have and they still look fine so I'll bake a hand full and run some test beads to see how they behave. It will be good if I can use them up instead of buying new rod. Thanks for all the help, Richard
  4. Here are the plates I'm welding to the plow.
  5. Thanks for all the information, it sounds like 7018 is the consensus, I have used it with this machine but it has been a while. It was never my favorite rod as it can be a pain to get the arc started with this machine but seems to weld fine once you do. I still have about 20 lbs. of the stiff sitting in a homemade drying box but it is over 20 years old and I’m told the shelf life for it is very long. Clean won’t be a problem, the plates I’m welding on will be freshly machined at the joint and the plow still has its original paint at the welding area so it will clean you easily with a grinder. No one has mentioned it but with the size of these plates and the limited capacity of my welder would preheating the plates be in order? So what does someone do with expired 7018 rod? Thanks, Richard Chase
  6. and that should have been .5" not .05". I was on my first cup of coffee.
  7. Sorry if I was unclear, let me try again. The welder is 220V 31A from the power grid and 180A(max) 25V AC at the welding rod. The 1.5” plate are the quick disconnect mounts for the Cat loader it will be used on and the .25” thick material on the plow that the plates will be welded to is 12” x 2” x .25” C channel running the width of the plow. The plow itself forms a large C as well so there is additional strength there as well and there will be some addition bracing, but making a good weld at the 1.5” x 12” mounting point is my primary concerns do to the mass of the plates. Does that clear it up at all? Thanks, Richard Chase
  8. I'm looking for some advice/recommendations on welding some large stock The project involves welding a pair of 1.5" thick plates to the back of a 12' plow blade. these plates weigh around 200lb each and will be welded on edge with a contact area 1.5" wide and 12" long. the mounting spot on the blade is .25" thick and everything is mild structural steel. I have a vintage Craftsman 180amp(25volt) AC welder to accomplish this with. My welding training consists of a trade school course 30 years ago but I do weld steel up to .05" thick fairly regularly and the welds have always held up well even in high stress applications. I have my own thoughts on how to accomplish this but would like some input from someone with more experience then me. I'm looking for both rod and procedure recommendations. Thank you, Richard Chase
  9. I finally found some time to get setup to machine out the lower dovetail area, It’s slow going as the cuts need to be very light since the only thing holding the hammer casting in place is gravity. Here are a couple of pictures of the cuts in progress.
  10. I plan on making sure everything is true, My machine tool equipment and skills put me in a pretty good position to do that. I've got a plane in my head for a jig that will allow me to accurately alien the shaft and hold it in place while I pore the Babbitt around it for the lower bearings. No big rush on the drawings as I only have time at the moment to pick at this project. Thanks, Richard
  11. I was being a bit facetious when I mentioned making the caps from oak, my point being these aren't caps for a big V8. I hadn't thought of using the Bronze as the bearing just as a medium to cast them from and I had considered just machining them from bar stock and still may. I'll probably go with having them cast if I can workout the details for 2 reasons learning to make the pattern and making connections in the Foundry world gives me another resource to call on for future projects and I have a tendency to try and put all the things I restore back to as close to original condition as I can. I'm not really set up to be able to line bore the bearings, just machining out the anvil area is going to require some creativity. Thank for all this information, it's a huge help. Now I just need to find time to actualy work on it. Richard
  12. I talked to the owner of the Foundry and he would prefer they made the pattern but was willing to use one I made if it passed their inspection. The cost for them to make it was in the $750 to $1000 range while casting the caps was approximately $75.00 each. I didn't think of bronze, I would think it would be strong enough, with all the work being the lifting of the Tup and the low RPM I would think Oak would be strong enough, the majority of the load should be carried by the lower bearings. Would you still use Babbitt or use the bronze as a bearing surface? I like the Bronze Idea, I get to pick up a new skill, can anyone think of a problem with bronze bearing caps?
  13. I'm ok with massive, I can use heavier plate if needed. Pictures of one that is off would be great. Does anyone know anything about cast iron and having parts cast? Class 30 Iron (30,000psi) should be sufficient for the bearing caps shouldn't it? Also any pointers on pattern making would be appreciated, I understand the basics but have never made a pattern before. I looked under "Foundry and Casting" but didn't find much.
  14. The pictures that would be of the most help are some pictures if the bearing caps from the top and if someone has the original motor mount that mounted on the back at the bottom I'd love some pictures of that so I can mimic it in 1/2" plate. Pictures of the clutch/brake linkage from a machine with the motor mounted in that position would also be of interest. Thanks again for all the help. Richard Chase
  15. Thanks for this information, It is going to be very helpful. Based on your measurements just over 2” of the Tup has been cut off but only 1” of the Dovetails has so I may not bother to extent the dovetail when I add the 2” back to the bottom of the tup. I have settled on a variation of your idea for the Die retainer for the lower die. A couple of more questions : What is the diameter of the pin that holds the links to the Tup? Is the 65lb the weight of the Tup with or without a die? If the dovetails for the dies are not tapered are they held in with duel tapered shims? Thanks again for all the help, Richard