GNJC

Right, Having spent the last few days carefully reviewing the block in 3D there are a couple of things that need adding / changing. None will have any effect upon the block in terms of utility. Firstly, the internal ridge in the heart shape is too high and sharp. It will be pushed back. Secondly, near one edge of the main face with the ‘pyramidal’ shape there are a small circle and a rectangle; there should also be a second, shorter rectangle on the opposite side to the circle. These three small depressions will contain the ‘C’ copyright symbol, my sponsor’s mark / touchmark of ‘GNJC’ and the letters ‘UK’, the country of origin. The three of these will be moved marginally toward the edge with the inclined planes, allowing a larger distance from the small hemispherical feature. So that’s it, finished. I’m sure others will find lots of uses for the general features that I haven’t yet thought of. Therefore I intend to send out a couple of reference sheets with each block, one giving illustrated dimensions of everything on it, the other giving the uses I intended for each feature when I designed it. I’ll ask everyone who has a block to let me know of any unusual ways they have of using it and to let me know about any extra features they put into the blank areas I have left, so that the knowledge can then be shared. Hopefully, pattern cutting in the first half of this week, casting in the second half. G.

Here are the pics

Hello all, I visited the pattern-maker yesterday and have some good images to upload, but... I can't do it! I have no idea why not because on some other fora that I use it is not a problem. Also, today the pattern-maker has sent me a PDF which is really good because one can view the block in 3D, turning it any way. I am happy to send this to you if you ask. Can it be uploaded? Please, someone - Anyone! - who is more able than me with computers, PM me your email and I will send the images to you for uploading on this thread. I'm going to spend this week considering the final result and, either as it is or with possible small changes, have the pattern cut next week. Casting of the first blocks will follow soon after that. So, all who are interested in having one, please PM me once more and I'll send you the PDF so that you can be sure it is what you want. Regards, G.

Hello all, just a short update. Things are moving along at the pattern-makers, I had planned to visit this week but real-life work (the bad stuff) has intruded upon my time, a lot. However, I should be seeing them next week and shall (following Beth's instructions) try to post images of the 3D design - if I am unable to do so PM an email address and I'll send them straight to you. G.

Hello Phil, no, I have not been back to the pattern-maker yet; as I wrote earlier they shut up shop until the festivities are over, so nothing more until the New Year. Once I have something I'll post it - assuming I can master the IFI picture-posting sysytem, which seems to have changed since I last sucessfully got it to work. If not, and you are keen to see it, I could email it to you. G.

Inspiration - seasonal, or otherwise - has come for the remaining space on the block. It was staring me in the face for a long time, both on antique iron items & many brass ones too, especially horse brasses and handles / knobs. I have decided that a shallow recess in the shape of a five pointed star shall fill the gap; designed so that the deepest part in the centre will be a point & that a ridge will run down to the centre from each point. Simple, easy to machine & capable of leaving a good impression on metal forced onto it. I am yet to decide on final size, but around an inch across the widest part and a quarter inch in depth.

I took my ‘final’ plans to the pattern-makers today and we discussed them for an hour or so; overall, no problems and the block should come out well. Deposit left, fingers crossed. However, my ideas regarding texturing features only look to be a part-success. Both flower & shell should be alright. But the parallel lines / grooves I’d intended for making a grip pattern (chequering) aren’t practicable for the casting process. They can be machined onto the pattern fairly well, but the consensus was that a subsequent sand moulding and, finally, a casting would lose definition. I have seen some examples of failed ideas of a comparative size and there really can’t be any argument; so no lines. They can – and in my case will – be machined on later if wanted. The memento-mori (skull) feature is something which they could not be sure about so, once the 3D CAD work is over, a trial will be carried out. Having extra room on a main face I have added two upsetting recesses. These are basically truncated cones with flat bottoms, one starts at 0.5” and goes up to 0.75” and the other starts at 0.75” and goes up to 1”. I’ve seen these on a couple of North American blocks and, as single use tools, over here too; I think they are quite helpful when upsetting smaller diameter bars; both are round. There is room on a main face for another feature; I shall think hard about this, if no inspiration (or good suggestions) comes I shall just use it to spread the current features slightly further apart. As before, while it is still a computer model and until the pattern has been cut, I may alter/ add / subtract a feature if it seems necessary. The pattern-makers will be closed for the whole of the festive season so, other than any bright ideas I have for features to fill up the space on the main face, I won’t have anything to add to this thread regarding design & production of the block until the New Year. But if anyone wants questions answered I’ll be happy to respond.

Winner? Brill’? Nice of you to say so, hmm… I hope so, let’s wait and see how they come out after casting. But the theory seems alright, I’ll admit to a bit of excitement myself. G

Update… First – this may be of use to others planning something similar – I’ve been reliably informed by a friend & former colleague who practises in Intellectual Property law that what I’m creating should be termed a ‘Sculpted Iron Block’. So be it. I’ve agreed today that I’ll be going to the pattern-maker with what I hope are my final plans on Thursday 15th, subject to his advice the main features I’ve settled on for the 10”x10”x4” block are as follows: Spoon recesses: 4 ½” x 3”; 3” x 2”; 2 ¼” x 1 ½”; 2” x 1 ¼”; depths from 1” down to ¼”. Circular recesses: 5”, 4”, 2”, 1”, 3/4” & ½” in diameter; the first three will be 1¼”, 1¾” & 7/8” in depth, the others half their diameter in depth. Half-cone recesses (on sides): 2” x 1.5” (rounded end); 3” x 1.25” (rounded end); 11” x 2” (in three lengths of 4”, 4” & 3” to allow fitting on the block’s side). A 6½” long curved recess with increasing radius along its length (think running shoe swoosh), about 1½” deep. Box-corner recess: 2” edge length (picture a corner cut from a cube, a three sided pyramid). Inclined planes on sides: 60o & 45o for use in forming pan / pot rims etc. Heart shaped recess 1½” x 1½”. Radiused corners of diameters: 1¼ ”, 1”, ¾” & ½”. Stepped corner: 1” by ¾”. As for my texturing ideas; the views of pattern-maker & foundryman are that there’s no point in any feature / line with a radius of < 1/32”; small sizes don’t define well & leave features vulnerable, they advise more than double that. I’ve experimented with line widths & depths and conclude that a metric width / depth of 3mm (just under 1/8”) gives a good visible feature on worked metal & doesn’t leave the design on the block vulnerable. So, pending a possible trial of textures by casting a small sample, I’ve included a set of parallel lines / grooves to be used for putting a grip on implements either in the simple form or, depending upon angle, as crosshatching. For leaf-vein patterns there will be one pattern that has pairs of side-veins coming off a central vein (like oak) &, on a side face, there will be a single line that allows maple / vine leaves to be veined. My special interest is historical cooking so other spaces on a main face will have shallow recesses to allow the making of features / patterns found on old implements (17th, 18th & early 19th centuries). These will be: a stylised shell (like a cockle); a stylised skull (memento mori); a simple flower, similar to a Tudor rose. These will be shallow, around 1/8“ in depth, & are intended for use on ends of round /square section bar (usually well upset on items I’ve seen) or flat areas elsewhere. Size depends upon pattern-maker’s opinion, but < 1” in largest dimension. Depending on advice given, these may also require a trial. If one or more of the textures is not viable I shall use the space for another recess, probably a spoon. I have deliberately left several areas on the sides blank; the largest is 3” x 2”, others are a little smaller. These are for future custom features, assuming access to appropriate tools. Note: there will be no through-holes. Two final points: Firstly, the casting process requires that the sides are slightly angled outwards from base to top (the ‘draw’ angle); in this case the angle will be a fraction over 2o (which will mean an overhang of 1/8” from base to top over the 4” height of the block). The block is designed so that, should a user wish to, the angled faces can be machined back to make the sides perpendicular to the main flat faces without adversely affecting use of the features. However, I think it unlikely that this will prove necessary for most and it will keep costs down to leave the blocks as they come out of the moulds. Secondly, once I see the design in 3D on the CAD program, I may change a feature(s) if I think it necessary. Well, that’s the lot. I believe the combination of spoon, circular, half-cone recesses & other shapes, inclined planes & radiused corners allow for a wide range of shapes & forms to be made (including shovels). G.

John, leaf veins are included; I have given them some thought: There are two general patterns of leaf vein: (a) those that have pairs of side-veins coming off a central vein e.g. oak or chestnut; (b)those that have several long veins that radiate from a single base e.g. sycamore or field maple. (And others that combine both patterns, e.g. ivy!) Despite the undoubted strength of SG iron, I still think recessed veins are a better option for the block. If the recessed veining I have cast is too narrow for a user’s taste, it can easily be widened by filing / careful grinding; a raised vein could only be widened via welding on extra metal – more difficult and time consuming. To allow both vein patterns to be formed I’ve decide to include a general side-vein pattern on a main face and a long single vein on one side – allowing maple-type veins to be formed by rotating a leaf using its base as an axis. The degree to which a leaf’s veins will stand out will, of course, depend on how hot the metal is and how hard it is struck; another benefit of recessed patterns could be that the raised veins produced can be beaten themselves or ground back if thought too high. Jeremy, no pattern yet; as I’ve written above, my final designs will go to the pattern-maker in a week or so and I should have the pattern in my hands in the early New Year, casting starting soon after that. As for details of shapes, they have been listed earlier; however, following from my last post (having being shown just how strong SG iron really is) I am minded to add another feature or two or increase size of some others. Expect a final list with dimensions at the back-end of next week. G.

Just back from the foundry I’ve chosen to cast the blocks, a very interesting & educational visit. I’m pleased to write that it is all good news: they can cast to the design – and definition – that I’m planning and will do so in small batches. The patterning looks to be alright, but I’ve decided to forget about chequering / crosshatching in favour of a set of parallel lines which can be used to achieve the same effect at any angles to suit the user. Also, I was given a demo’ of how strong SG iron of various thicknesses is & was very impressed; it will allow a couple more features if they're wanted or an increase in size of a couple of others (e.g.lengthening the long varied-radius curve). So, before I give final instructions to the pattern-maker – which will be after next week – any more suggestions? G.

Price is up at least 25% from my original estimates, this is because the block is 25% bigger and so uses 25% more metal. Weight will be around 3/4cwt or 40kgs. (Shipping price with pallet within the UK = about £40) The size is a compromise between weight, price, strength and space for features. G.

Phil, the foundry has told me that they use sand with a max. grain size of 600 microns; this is their medium-grained sand, finer sand with a max. grain size of 300 microns could also be used. The recesses for the leaf-vein pattern will have depths / widths of around 2mm (about 1/16“); I’m yet to decide on an exact depth and will experiment to find what works best. I am also yet to decide on the profile of the recess, i.e. whether to have a rounded or ‘V’ cross section. Any thoughts? Beth, the texture(s) will / would each be over areas of perhaps 1.5” x 2.5”, in the corners of the block – blank areas because I have avoided placing features near to the corners (to avoid weakness); they will be cast, not machined, and recessed rather than proud. Having seen the foundry’s work and having discussed the matter with the pattern-maker, producing these textures to a good resolution is not difficult. My intention is not for them to be used for patterning large areas, but for grips on handles and the suchlike. If a yellow heat is taken a large faced hammer or flatter can be used to force the texture on to the metal – single sided though, obviously. The patterned areas would not interfere with any other feature and – being very shallow – could be ground off if they annoyed you. Including them on the pattern involves no extra cost and effort, it also utilises a space that can’t be used for a deep feature (avoiding weakness). I should have added three more points to my last post: 1) Block size will be 10”x10”x4”; 2) one of the half-cone recesses will be 11”, but in three lengths (4”, 4” & 3”) to allow it to fit on the side of the block; 3) that the three spoon sizes will allow for any number of spoon sizes to be made from 4.5” down, since they and the cones can be used to shape them. G.

Update as promised. A bit long. Today I visited my pattern-maker. He told me that my design is fine for casting, but I need to provide more detailed cross-sectional figures for asymmetrical recesses such as spoons. I shall. Due to a job that must be completed in December, work on my pattern can’t be started until just before Christmas; I’m not in a great rush and the waiting period fits with earlier advice of waiting a while after settling on a design, just to be sure I remain happy with it. Once made it can’t easily be altered. As for design... first I say this: having looked at every block I can, in person and online, I think the biggest problems / mistakes with blocks are: 1) Trying to fit too many features, leading to thin bits of cast metal vulnerable to stray hits & knocks. 2) Not considering the main direction of hammer blows when using a given feature. 3) Including many features that have only one purpose (I confess to one such feature). 4) Not leaving space for the owner to customise his block later with additional features. I have kept these in mind and I think have done fairly well; the block will not suit everyone, but it should satisfy many. The features I have settled upon (at the moment) are: Inclined planes at various angles to assist with box / shovel forming etc. A corner-shaped recess to allow accurate / simpler box making. Three sizes of spoon recess; with varying degrees of dishing. Four circular recesses of differing size and depth, to allow dishing / ladle making etc. A heart recess (single use feature) – to enable me to recreate Eighteenth Century sweet-moulds. Three half-cone recesses of differing height, shape and angle. (straight & curved sides) A large curved recess which has an increasing radius along its length. (Think running shoe swoosh shape) Each corner differently radiused for a 'range' of right-angles (...???... all ninety degrees, but you know what I mean.) A leaf vein pattern. That’s the lot for the moment; I am considering a couple of other textures such as chequering (as on a rifle’s pistol grip) and stippling. As before any brilliant suggestions for different features will be gratefully received. G.

Dave, I have got a couple of half-cones on a side already (as written above I will list features after seeing the pattern maker), my use for them is for crusie lamps and grisset pan ends, I am sure you are right and other uses could also be found for them. The block will be 4" thick; the half-cones I have in mind will be no more than 3" high and 1.5" across base, exact dimensions still to decided. What do you think of 60 degree triangle recesses? Of use or pointless? The thing is, once you start thinking so many ideas come... I'll p.m. you to see what you think of a couple.

My head is spinning with finalising the design of the block before going to the pattern maker next week. The pattern maker has advised that, after seeing him and discussing the plans / drawings, I should spend at least another week considering them before having the pattern made. That is certainly good advice; and after seeing him I shall put a brief description of the plan on IFI. I have a couple of spaces on the draw faces - the block's sides - which are unnecessarily blank. I don't want to 'crowd' the features on the block, but neither do I want to waste space. So... Any suggestions about what could go in these spaces? I don't see the point in reproducing what comes on a standard block so forget about right angled triangles, half-hexagons and half circles. Any use for sixty degree triangles, half-octagons etc.? Shapes and ideas with dimensions please. Thanks, G.

Good news: I have discovered a foundry that will turn out blocks at a cost which is much closer to my original estimates. The chaps there are very helpful and we are now looking at the production of a pattern. Lost-foam casting is an option but, obviously, that is more for one-off jobs than anything else. Nonetheless, if anyone out there knows of an economical firm / method for mass-producing polystyrene shapes in the UK, please let me know; I have carried out a web search and have not found any options (all the companies I came across would not be keen on a small production run, i.e. less than thousands). G.

Biggundoctor (I don't know your name), thanks for that - until your post I had not heard of foam casting. A quick web search show it is similar in principal to lost wax, but the model evaporates as the liquid metal is added, not before as in the wax process. A simple and very good idea, I shall look into this once the working week starts. I know a chap who makes surfboards using such foam, we call is polystyrene over here, and he has the wires etc. used for shaping it. Certainly good for one-offs; if models can be produced easily it could even be good for multiples. Thanks again. G.

Yes, for numbers casting is the way. I was not thinking about this commercially to start with (and for those who were up for it from the start, I still am not, blocks at cost to you!) but as I have seen probable costs rise, it seems the only way - whether via production here or importing. Not sure what sales would be like e.g. per year, but once a casting set-up is made even small runs should be economic... I hope. Still waiting for replies from foundries. Beth, if it comes to importing - and if I can't get what is missing on an imported block done locally - I'll come back to you regarding your friend's machine shop, thanks for the offer. (It looks like you got that cone, happy with it?) G.

Hello Owen, I’ve considered many other options and, unsurprisingly, have come to the conclusion that the best tool for the job is that designed specifically for it. Certainly hardy tools are cheaper to ship over than blocks, but they add up and still would not have the utility of a block; however, they are like the US spring swages, tempting. I admit, I really do like the idea of a block; but not due to a weird tool-fetish (not much, anyway), it is mainly because it will do all the jobs I want to do now, maybe some in the future too, and I think there should be one available here in the UK. If the casting plan proves to be a no-go - and I really hope that it will come off - my second choice is importing, probably on a commercial basis. Regards, G.

Well… The good news is that I have heard back from a few more foundries. The bad news is that the production prices for blocks, as discussed in ‘phone conversations, have – following the submission of more detailed information – increased, in one case doubling. The cost of a pattern remains the same. Having gone further afield, I am still waiting to hear back from another three foundries, one of them was a lot more enthusiastic than the others and a lot more understanding about the likely production run being small. However, should each of these prove to be a no-go, I shall look to others even further away; hopefully one, at least, will prove to be interested. Again, I am very surprised that some businesses who claim to welcome orders of any size have been unenthusiastic; I have several friends with small businesses and all of them are grateful for whatever they can get at the moment. Whinge over. G.

Jake, No problem about 'butting in', the more questions answered before I commit to anything, the better as far as I am concerned. I am still awaiting replies from a number of firms about basic pricing. I am surprised that they are not chasing up as much business as possible. Calculating for shrinkage is not a problem, as mentioned before, the sizes for the features are arbitrary, people won't complain about a ladle being 3 15/16" rather than 4. My design is continuing to evolve; it will certainly be a larger piece than had originally intended (so as to allow more cavities on the main faces.) John has been very helpful, sage advice would not be putting too strongly. I am trying to incorporate useful features for the draw faces, but can see no point in repeating those found on the everyday swage blocks that we have, It seems to me that having a couple of blank areas could be a good thing, thereby allowing people to have them machined with recesses of their own design / choice at a later date. G.

Colleen, just saw your post. It will be in if possible, a chap down the road from me is keen for one too and will have a look at designing a depression that will be good for a shovel and other 'things' (his word). Hmm. G

Jake, Your comments are most welcome. To be frank, they back up what I initially thought, but - and it is a big but - of the various founders I have spoken to so far only one has been more than cool towards the idea of a pattern made by other than a professional. Perhaps they have been mucked about before and had their time wasted, I don't know. Irritatingly, I am being given conflicting advice by some of them; so I am having to take all views into consideration. Today I think I have seen some light with one chap, but time will tell. No matter what, your input in re' patterns and John's in re' size is constructive and very helpful. G.