Harris Snyder

Some nice examples of both setups and smithing work here! As for the versatility of induction, Mr Larson is technically correct. Induction heating is a careful balance of skin depth and resonance. The circuit needs to be in resonance (to keep the power transfer decent), but the frequency has to be such that it starts to heat the core of the metal too and not just a half millimeter around the edge. Of course, multiple coils can alleviate the issue to a great degree, but not entirely. That said, I do think that in practical terms, an induction heater can have "versatility" within a range of activities and types of stock, especially once someone gets familiar with how to pick the appropriate coil geometry. Ultimately you're both right. A given induction heater, due to frequency range and capacitor bank size, might be unsuitable for certain kinds of stock, but of course it looks like in practice most smiths find this particular range of heaters to work very well for most of their day to day smithing activities. That said, if I were going to go induction, I'd either test drive a unit, or design and make one myself. Ideally, I'd find a way that the unit can vary the capacitor bank to find a better match for a given piece of metal. The issue there is mostly the time involved to do it, which would be substantial. Owen, I appreciate your warnings. I do not think I'm invincible though, on the contrary I'm a bit scared of my propane tanks to be honest! I've tried bashing heavy stock, and that steel is tough to move. I think what I meant was that if I went induction I'd spend more time forging overall, even if I had to limit the heavy stuff I could do without help. Not all my work is larger stock, its just that I started this thread out of a desire to acquire a tool which would help me to forge large stock effectively. I know that before I can make bigger stuff on my own I need one of these tools. The induction heater addresses a separate issue, really. As I said I don't love using compressed gas, and I spend much of the year in the city where charcoal isn't available (for free that is) and coal smoke is a problem. Going induction would capitalize on my hammering time, and build my skill as a smith (I'm fairly junior as you know), before jumping into the bigger stuff I'd ultimately like to be making.

Hey guys. thanks for the suggestions and the encouragement. TBH I don't actually even know what the turning cams are for! I've never shoed a horse and probably never will, but yeah it really does seem like a shoeing anvil. I'll try bedding it with something absorbant and then chaining it down to the wood below. After a bit of research and the suggestions here it looks like that's the way to go. I'll still be on the market for a better one though. The anvil does work. It's just not good. but oh well.

Hi guys, I've got one of these: and its a 70 pounder. Rings like there's no tomorrow, and I think its mostly the heel's fault cause its so thin. Severely tempted to saw the heel off, but thats probably just the frustration talking. Truth be told, I bought this anvil a year ago when I had no idea what to look for. The placement of the hardie hole infuriates me as well. Overall I'm not too happy with it, I'd gladly pick up a used 150 lb ish peter wright or other old anvil. Trouble is its hard to find used ones in or near Toronto. Found one on the local craigslist but the guy wanted 600 bucks for it (old 140 lb peter wright, face not in perfect shape), so I think I'll pass. I realize that this thread is mostly just me complaining rather than asking intelligent questions, so i apologize, but any suggestions on where to look locally for a used anvil in the 2.50 per pound range would be appreciated. Advice on how to quiet this darn thing down would be equally appreciated Image from NC tool company website.

Very interesting... I might be looking into that stuff as well.. It does sound egregiously toxic, so break out the hazmat I guess (joking).

From a theoretical standpoint, I'm very familiar with how induction heaters work (midway through a physics degree right now), and I'm aware of their limitations. From a practical standpoint, I'm sure I'll learn new quirks associated with them, but I'm not overly worried about having false expectations. Of course, I started this thread asking about larger objects, which ironically an induction heater might not be suited for! That's alright though, I'll just use gas or charcoal for that stuff for now. The "heat faster, hit more, get stronger" attitude definitely appeals to me, I like the idea of doing bigger stuff by hand as well. Of course I'll get power eventually, just not this year maybe. I'm 22 and healthy, so hopefully I can get away with this approach for a few years. Thanks guys

Many replies here contain solid advice. Of course, I'll be wanting all of these things eventually. However, I think that an induction heater honestly is the best thing for me at this stage. I will be looking to buy/make both a hammer and a press. I see the advantages of both, and honestly I'll just build up my own stamina and forge hammer heads and similar sized things by hand (and with a striker). When the time comes to move to power I'll have a more realistic sense of which one I need from the additional experience. Nuge is right, an induction heater would equate to more minutes beating iron, and more experience.

You make a very good point. In fact, I think you may have me convinced...

Me too. Like a hawk.

Seeing a lot of votes for the hammer style (true, its not really smiting with a press). I'm seriously considering a treadle hammer first, though, cause i could make it myself. How do you power hammer fans like treadle hammers for, lets say, sledge hammer head size stuff?

Thanks a lot for your recommendation. I'll look into treadle hammers. I was sort of under the impression that they were farily weak, but then again, they're probably as strong as a striker.

Hey guys, thanks for the quick replies. My initial post was too vague, sorry. I'm editing the post to provide a bit more information, the changes should show up in a minute. EDIT: welllll i don't seem to have permission to edit the original post. Heres the info: I'm mainly thinking about a press for working larger stock. Think sledgehammer sized projects - maybe even a bit bigger. Smaller stuff I like doing by hand, even if its a lot of pounding. In terms of the money, well, this is theoretical at this point. Its something I'm willing to shell out a few grand for in the next, say, 6 months, but I'm in the planning and learning phase at the moment. I've got space for whatever I decide to go with I'm about 1 year into blacksmithing. I can shape some metal, but hardly a master smith. I'm not too good at pretty vines and stuff (nor is that really my interest), I'm more into making hardware, kitchenware, and tools (and better at that). I don't have an air compressor, but since a plasma torch is on the to-get list within a year, I'll be picking a small one up. I have to say, Its interesting that you (Jim) say a treadle hammer and a fly press.... Maybe I'll look into those instead.. Definitely easier on the wallet (could probably make them myself) and might be good enough for the time being...

Title says it all, really. Should I be looking for a press or a power hammer as my first assisted smithing tool? Thanks guys

Hey guys, Awesome work, as many here have said. Count me as another definite buyer for a DIY kit, if that helps encourage you to start offering them. Please keep us updated - there are many people here who are interested in your project!

Well the particular installation I'm thinking about will be in New Hampshire... Maintenance would be acceptable every 3+ years, but the longer the better. Would stainless steel treated with a black patina solution (they are available even for stainless) be a better bet than just coating mild steel?

Hi guys, Out of curiosity, how do smiths weatherproof outdoor pieces like gates, fences, driveway chains, etc? What way works the best in the experience of those of you here?

This thread brought a smile to my face. I'm constantly impressed by how genuine the IFI folks are. Time and again. And thank you, Todd, for your service. I live in Canada for much of the year, but I'm a US citizen. Several here have expressed their gratitude, and I'd like to add my name to the list. Best of luck.

If it really is galvanized (zinc coated) don't use it as a forge. You may already know this but burning the zinc coating off of galvanized steel can kill you (not a joke, google paw-paw Wilson). I know that the body of a forge shouldn't get that hot if the lining is thick enough and made right, but I dont think you should risk it. I'm not an expert on propane forges, I'm actually just building my own first one right now as well, so I'll let others provide the real advice, I just wanted to throw that safety warning in so you don't accidentally make your self sick (or worse)

Right, okay. Everyone seems to be saying tape, so thats the way I'll go. Thanks everyone!

Sorry for the double post but it looks like the edit button is gone (?). I also realized that the threads are a bit tight, i would be tempted to put a bit of oil on them to get them to fit all the way together without risking damaging the threads.. Then I'd solder the connections closed. Bad idea?

Hi guys, I just got my first propane burner. gonna try to rig up a propane forge rather than burning charcoal all the time. I've got a regulator that feeds a hose which is connected at the other end to a needle valve, a T for connecting a gauge, and then it goes into the actual burner. My question (I'm new to propane) is do i need to (and how do i) seal the threads on the connections. Can I solder them? Thanks

Hey, thats awesome! I live in Toronto and I'm 22.. does that count as young? haha.

Got me thinking... I just put a 1/2 inch bar of steel in the jaws of my spot welder.... Lots of sparks, and made a nasty dent in each side, but I did get the bar glowing orange. Totally could have forged it. The issue with this sort of thing is that as the metal scales, the point of contact becomes very unreliable. Could try it with welding clamps and leads, but overall I think that you're better off either with an electric oven/kiln, or with induction if you want to use electricity to heat your metal with.

I don't know anything about the blower/forge, but I bet I or someone here can help you out if you post some pics