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Posts posted by Dodge
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Looks to me that it may have separated from its base. Maybe a factory failure or broke sometime in the past then suedo repaired?? The "bottom" is about where it would have been forge welded to its base.
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Google Daryl Meir for some genuine eye candy I;d post a link but links don't seem to be favored here anymore
Scott
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No one else seemed to notice; probably heat drunk, I guess LOL But if that is a first attempt, DAAAAAAAAANG!! Tht is beautiful! Thanks for sharing and welcome!
Scott
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I wonder if the OP's question is answered. Maybe it was a good wheel, maybe not. We may never know
OTOH, I have a grizzly like Jacob linked. I like it
Scott
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Yep that's the stuff Jerry. I think is main use is in wall paper removal (?)
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Lets try this again
Edit Tried to post the txt file in the post but kept getting You Dont Have Permission message
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Compose in Word, Notepad, OpenOffice Writer, WordPad, etc Then cut and paste here. Gotta love seamless posting
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Good info, Frosty! Thanks for sharing!
Scott
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Gives me the idea on how to make my touch mark!
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This is posted too Steve but after half an hour of trying to post earlier and getting that message every time didn't compute either. Hence the c & p. Not sure why my reason for editing ended up in the body of that message. It was in the reason for edit area earlier
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Permit me to direct your attention to this thread on that very subject http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/42405-blacksmithing-series-on-history-channel/
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Forbidden
You don't have permission to access /topic/42645-is-converting-my-harbor-freight-6x48-worth-it/ on this server. Because it wouldn't let me post to this thread. I really didn't have that much to add, so, never mind
but this IS posted to this thread. Does not compute
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I second what Mr Powers said about bsb. Also, alternating with pallet strapping, it will yield more contrast with the acid etch. I've thought about trying other blends, but (for me) bsb and banding is so, abundant, I would rather hone my patterning technique with something I have had good welding results with. Then when I am comfortable with what the layers will do under a give manipulation, I will try more exotic metals. YMMV
Scott
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The pentel ones do not have a ball in the nib like the paint pen markers, I think it is a little needle thing, like in a Rotring drawing pen. I resurrect them when they dry out by dipping and tapping the tip in a cap full of gun wash or paint thinner.
Yes but, no but...
Lost in translation?
Soapstone = French Chalk = Welders' Chalk = Tailors' Chalk
OP was "Other then French Chalk…." I guess that was presumed to be a given….
Alan
Must be a local colloquialism as I have never heard of French Chalk. In the 25 years of welding and fabrication, I opened copious boxes of the stuff and they were all simply marked "Soapstone" so I suppose my ignorance should be presumed a given... Curiously, when I googled it Wiki (and I know about all of its shortcomings) yielded this for "soapstone" but mentions nothing of French chalk . Furthermore, a search for "French chalk" simply yields the result of "Talc" which is what quarried soapstone or seatite is primarily made up from. However, all of the definitions I found for French chalk seem to define it as talc or a soft granular variety of seatite. This sounds like something that is processed rather than simply quarried such as soapstone (at least evident in the uniformly cut but somewhat irregular grain and grade of the stuff we used. Thank you, however for the clarification.
Scott
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Just wondering if anyone really expected this show to be of an instructional nature. Imagine the liabilities involved
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Mine is mild steel. Works fine
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Very cool, Vaughn! I especially like the method you used to form the root. Stick welding isn't just for breakfast (or making things stick together) anymore
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DVR; set
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Karn, beautiful work. I know what you mean about getting it all level for glass. I once made a table for my daughter that the glass set down in a frame. I made the mistake of making the table then getting the glass. I had to take the table to a glass company and have it custon cut to fit the corners and irregular sides. $$$ Luckily I knew a guy that worked there. I will buy the glass first next time
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Vito, I meant to repost sooner but I looked up my anvil post that was created in 2010. You probably already discovered that the pictures are no longer there. Seems that one of the upgrades spirits ate them. Anyway, here's one of them. The cutting process actually put a bit of surface hardness on it. You can dent it if you deliberately try but works nice for simple forging. It is actually corten weathering steel. Not sure of the hardness but its still considered mild...
Scott
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I made a mild steel anvil on a CNC flame cutting machine. I didn't hard face it. I was going to, but I didn't because I was a production welder for over 18 years and was tired of welding and I wanted to start forging; not do more welding. Not to mention the copius amounts of grinding involved. Just sayin Been using the anvil for a number of years now without an issue. No, I wouldn't use this one if I was doing this for 8 hours a day 5 days a week. I'd use my Trenton, but as a hobbyist I like my home made mild steel anvil just fine.
All that being said, another method of putting a hard face on mild steel, is hard facing rod. Usually a cushion layer is welded on of something like 7018(?) or maybe something harder and then the hard face. I have heard also of it being done, simply with 7018 rod. It involves running stringer welds across the entire face (and one guy did his horn too) and grinding (or machining flat) There is a link somewhere in the show-me-your-anvil section of this process but I couldn't tell you what page. Mine is there too if you're interested
Scott
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As being a dad is a never ending choir?
No singers in this family, even with 3 girls LOL, however, Softball seemed like a never ending season tho Now I have 7 grand kids including 3 boys in baseball. Glad its my favorite sport!
Scott
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Happy Father's Day fellow dads
Just checking in
in Introduce Yourself
Posted
Welcome!
Scott