PeterDE4

I've used one for years. Mostly with stick welding, but more recently with MIG. I got it at the local welding shop when they first started coming out. It fit right in to my old helmet's 2x4 opening. My only objection is that I occasionally get a light flare if I'm MIG welding at a low setting. It's not enough to cause major problems, but it is annoying. My dealer told me that was a problem with the early models and that the major manufacturers have corrected this. It's a good alternative to buying an entire helmet.

My neighbor has a landscaping business with several trailers. The trailer tailgates are wire mesh welded to an angle iron frame. The mesh has to be replaced periodically when it gets torn up by the equipment. I've found that a small MIG welder does an excellent job of fastening mesh to a steel frame. Depending on the strenght you need, you may only have to weld every 3rd or 4th joint to the frame.

I may have luck doing some things simply because I don't know any better, but I Mig weld cast iron on a regular basis with mild steel wire. I use decorative cast iron panels in some of my railings and gates, and I just Mig weld them to the steel frames. I met a fellow one time who made up metal grills for the windows of his gun store, and he just Mig welded the panels together. I'd vee it out a little before trying it, as some of the other folks have suggested. And, if you have access to a Tig welder, just use a nickle rod.

I liked the look of their machine and was impressed by the video's on their website. I started leaving telephone messages requesting additional information in the late Fall of 2006, which were not returned. I wrote to them in February, 2007 requesting the DVD. If I recall correctly, I received it about 4-6 months later. I had already started building my own hammer by then, so it was kind of moot.

When I cut the hole for the air cylinder to pass through, I used a magnetic drill press with a 1 9/16" annular cutter. If you can hook up with someone who has access to one, it'll do a nice, clean job in no time at all.

Torin, I recently completed a Kinyon-style power hammer. I have 2 schematics that I could email to you, if you wish. One is a hand drawing from Dave Mudge at the Magic Hammer Forge, and the other is a cad drawing, which is basically the same thing. Both use the secondary regulator that was designed by the guys at the Alabama Forge Council. Pete

I recently finished building a Kinyon style air hammer. The ram weight with the die is around 55 pounds. I used a 2x10 cylinder, and it works fine. A 12.4 cfm compressor @ 100 psi should be more than adequate. I strongly suggest that you get a set of Ron Kinyon's plans from ABANA, unless you already have a good set of plans or access to another hammer that you want to copy. I got my pneumatics package from Power Dynamics which had all the components except for the ball valves, hoses, and fittings. I believe that Kayne & Son Blacksmithing Supply has a pneumatics package that includes hoses and fittings, and I've also heard that Ron Kinyon sells a pneumatics package, but I haven't confirmed that. You'll need basic metalworking tools, such as an O/A torch, stick welder, grinder, and drill press. You'll also helpful to have access to a chopsaw and horozontal bandsaw. I found that using a magnetic drillpress really helped. It's a lot easier to take a 35# drillpress to a 400# piece of steel than vise-versa. A chain hoist or sturdy engine hoist is also extremely helpful for moving the heavy stuff around. You can either weld everything together or bolt it together or a combination of both. Mine is all bolted together, so it can be taken apart if I ever need to move it. It weighs 1500# assembled, but the heaviest component is the base plate, which weighs 400#. If you decide to go ahead with the project, I think that you'll be pleased with the results. The KInyon style air hammers can really pound out some work. Good luck!

I use a Lincoln Squarewave 175 for stick and TIG, and a Lincoln SP125 for MIG. I really like the MIG for convenience and ease of use, especially for tacking pickets on gates and railings.