archiphile

47 minutes ago, Mikey98118 said:

I totally agree.

However the question has not been which valve is best suited for use in an idler circuit, but whether or not a ball valve could be used effectively in an idler circuit at all; I have done so. I have also used needle valves for idler circuits, and found them to be far more precise. On the other hand the ball valve is cheaper and allows a simpler circuit to be constructed, so it comes down down to a choice between nicer performance or easier/cheaper construction. Normally I favor performance of practicallity, but the ball valve option also allows more compact construction because the circuit is so basic. After several years I remain undecided as to which path is "better."

What is the need for precision? Why is the precision applied to the idle circuit and not the main line?

So maybe this will clear itself up when I fire it up and start messing around with settings but it is still unclear what the advantages are. I mean it would have saved a sizable chunk of cash to have just put the mechanical stop in. I have spent about 25 man hours searching online and in various supply houses and big box stores to source enogh parts to build the darn thing. My time is worth money too this forge just got real expensive. I am certain I won’t regret all the time money and effort I have spent into this build. Mikey your book is a blessing.

My first post here on IFI in quite sometime...years even. I was showing my partner the manifold assembly I have put together for my new/first gasser and her first question was “Why use a needle vaulve instead of another ball vaulve” in reference to my idle circuit. I told her because I had seen everyone else doing this but that I could not give her a real answer to her question. I have googled and search here and found nothing in the topic so ladies and gents I am all ears. 

Facebook is good for something every now and then it pointed me in the direction of the following page. Picture shows;

a sword (bent), anvil, two hammer heads, and the prize (to me at least) an axe head with some awesome langits.

 

Link> http://irisharchaeology.ie/2014/09/viking-blacksmiths-grave-uncovered-in-norway/

 

Discuss and Enjoy!

 

 

 

Merging this into the existing thread on this

I have Mark's first two books and will be getting the third one soon as i can. Truly a fantastic smith.

Mark Aspery, Adan Howard, and other fine smiths are going to be at the Adirondack Folk School in Lake Luzerne New York.

 

<http://www.adirondackfolkschool.org/afs/index.php?m=CatPage&catid=5> 

 

This is a new organization and the folks there are just fantastic. I just signed up for most of the week's classes and can't wait to see all of you there!

 

P.S. I suppose that I should mention that many of these courses have no one signed up yet.

I will say this: that after four years and many hundreds of thousands of dollars building our barn make certain that you can get a heating source that is sized for the space. We put pex in the tack room, just a small 12'x12' ( 144 sq ft.) space. It is the only room with insulation and heat. We were planning to use our tankless hot water heater but found that it is too inefficient and ALL of the boilers on the marked are sized for running entire houses in short we hat to purchase a second in room heater to use as there is not anything currently on the market that will run that small a space efficiently. I hope everything works out well for your project.

I was on my way out to feed the horses when I heard "Blacksmith" over the radio airwaves and it stopped me dead in my tracks. I marched over to the receiver and excitedly listened to "Mr. Trigonometry"(a.k.a. Mark Aspery) talk about our trade.

@Ridgewayforge INORITE.

http://www.npr.org/2012/06/03/154226599/blacksmiths-forge-a-new-kind-of-artisanal-future THIS so AWESOME!!

Umm, no, and what does this have to do with general blacksmithing? Or any blacksmithing?

Umm, I think you'll find that that was actually the question--what applications might a blacksmith find for it? But I guess it is more fun to be superior without providing any actual information sometimes....

(I should add that I'm curious too--never worked with the stuff, don't know what I'd do with it, but it sounds interesting!)

Amazon has lab grade FeCh for roughly $31/pound

@Thomas Powers: I am from New Mexico but I am living in New England at the moment.

@bnewberry: Thanks I just found them.

Incidentally one knife is going to some friends to enable them to slaughter their chickens with something that will hold and edge well. The second of the two is going to my son for giftmas.

Hi all,

I just ordered some steel and such I was wondering what y'all use for adhesives to affix your scales and where one might find rivets or some other method of attaching scales?

nice thanks

That's a bummer. When you say you took pics as you went, did you do the opperations as individual pieces?

I use the shavings from my hand planes. It just works...every time with out fail for me.

Go for it. At least it will stay outta the scrappy that way.

Not sure that I would want to spend two days making something that I can buy for around 25 bucks.

Obviously the INITIAL investment of time is large, but I know that with time you can and indeed will get fast enough to make them for LESS than it would cost you to by them.( LOL Sorry Grant.)

So, I build period furniture using ONLY hand tools as a hobby. I am fairly obsessive about sharpness and frequently touch up my edge tools on a 16,000 grit ceramic stone followed by a good stropping with polishing compound.

I say all of this as a lead in to when I purchase an edge tool the FIRST thing that happens is flattening the back of said tool. This starts on a 100 grit and moves through the grits to 16,000. By the time I am finished I can read the NY Times Stock quotes in the back. What really get me fuming is when I have to completely anneal and file flat a tool.(followed by HT)

My suggestion to you is to start not with a plane iron, as the large surface area can be a little daunting. I would suggest making a mortising chisel or a set of bench chisels. Theses are still fairly difficult, but require a smaller investment in steel and are a little more forgiving in terms of srruface area requiring flattening. I enjoy forging these as they are rather quick once you make your first ten pieces.

As far as type of steel. Keep it simple, W-1 or O-1. I find them easy to HT and fairly inexpensive too.

I am sure y'all 'll have a good time, sans the dog. Also love the microdot bus!

I have been Shaving with a straight razor since 2004. I tried everything out on the market up to that point. I bought my first razor in an antiques shop in Las Vegas, New Mexico. I only shave about every three days as the closeness of the shave allows me to e lazy.

I made these at the request of my wife who sells yarn and hand spun fiber. I had a billet of 1090 and 15n20 laying around so i cut off some chunks and forged these up on the Fontanini. Thanks for looking.
Brian

Those look great. I have always been fascinated by pattern welded steels, though I lack some of the equipment and courage to try for myself. Nice work.

I have in the neighborhood of 450 LBS. of coal (@12.90/bag) and a full bottle of acetylene in the shop. I am in the process of building a box so I can buy by the ton soon.

As a horse owner, I let my Farrier do the purchasing of shoes. This person could of had these shoes plated for some other use. I would NOT touch'em if in I were you. My rule is that if I even suspect something of haveing a nasty coating on it I DON"T TOUCH IT PERIOD.