Tabasco

Okay, I follow what you are saying now. Blunt is better as to not make the hollow point that leads to splits. And I am not quenching but was wondering if I should while trying to make such small rounds. Just thinking out loud what I might be doing wrong Thanks for getting down on my level so I can understand, this is a big help.

I appreciate everyone's input. I fire with coal and get my square stock from friends at a local woodchipping operation. They call it mild because it is softer than the key stock they use, so I call it mild. I am very new to this and I don't understand all of your terminology. I just round my stock as I draw it out and go to a point Does the frequency of quenching change when dealing with small points? There are very few forge events in my area so I am limited there. Just learning like I learned to weld, burn rods. Thanks again

Not talking about the problems ladies have with their hair but my problem when I am forging fine points on mild steel. Seems I cannot keep them from fraying when I get down to the very point. Is thie the nature of the mild steel or something else I am missing?

Someone recently gave me a Buffalo 300 under the condition I get it unfrozen and working. I am having a tough time of it. I was able to get the bottom worm gear out and it is in terrible shape. Would anyone happen to have this gear as an extra because I really don't thing I can breathe life back into the one I have. Also, would anyone know if the remaining two gears are pinned to their respective shafts. Thanks.