Ian

That'll be a tube wedge. Using tube or pipe instead of a traditional triangular wedge is more popular for some reason these days. I believe the theory behind it is that a piece of pipe forces the wood in the eye out in all directions as opposed to just two. It supposedly makes a more secure fixing.
I have both types of wedges in my hammers, my Swedish hammer has a round tube wedge, my old farriers turning hammer has a triangular wedge. IMO if the traditional wedge is done right there's no reason the head should be any less secure than using a bit of tubing.

I may be wrong, but my understanding is that "Pein" is the English spelling and that "Peen" is the American spelling. That said I've also seen "Pane" in some of the older texts Either spelling will do, we all know what you mean. :D

It took me a fair while to read through this thread but I'm glad I did because there's a couple of things I can add. Whether or not they're of value will be debated I'm sure.
Regarding the dumbel comments, or adding weight to the back of a hammer. It's been done already. Glenn Moon (MOONY) told me that in his days as an apprentice he saw some of the older Smiths at his company (BHP Australia) using long handled hammers that had holes bored into the shafts at the base, these were filled with lead rods that were beaten in so they didn't come out. They were mainly used as planishing hammers I believe, held mainly with the thumb and forefinger about halfway up the shaft and 'rocked' up and down to strike. No twirling batons, these were used over a full 8 hour day with a lot less fatigue placed on the smiths forearms and wrists. You can ask him to explain in more detail.

I use a similar grip for my own swing, the fingers I use to hold my hammer are my index finger and my thumb, in a sort of divers 'ok' gesture. I allow the weight of the hammer head to tip the remaininder of the shaft back into the three 'open' fingers of my hand. When I lift the hammer to it's heighest point the butt of the hammer is almost vertical, my down swing comes from my toes. There's a slight twist of my torso (as when you throw a good punch)then my shoulder rotates then my elbow and at the last second I close my hand and flex my wrist so the hammer head whips through. At point of impact my grip loosens back to the divers ok, with my other fingers 'just' holding the hammer to control it so I get the rebound. That final whip does add a fair amount of additional force.
I developed that swing from watching a LOT of smiths and seeing what seemed to work and what didn't. I don't lay claim to have discovered the 'best' swing as some do, just a swing that works when it comes to hitting hard without working hard.
I show students my swing by using a piece of thick plywood and a ball pein. how deep the mark is with just using the wrist, just the elbow, just the shoulder, then elbow and wrist, then shoulder, elbow and wrist and then finally my way. All the swings at as close to the same speed as I can. I show them the dents in the wood. My way is the deepest dent. After that I try to guide them but finally I'll let them find their own swing as long as it's not going to blow them out

Hey Owen, how's things? That old swage block of yours is still getting plenty of use

I should have been a bit clearer with my reference to the Royal Armouries, I meant google them and check the site to see if there was a way of contacting one of the curators. Their armourer was a fellow called Andrew Bodley, but I think he's moved on, he did post on here a long while ago so might be contactable.
I know from talking with a few of the european sword makers that getting your hands on an original is the only real way to see how the different geometries work. Most of them took micrometers with them when they got a chance :)

I get the same problem with the skin on my fingers cracking. Not just in winter though I've found that a good barrier cream and then something like Norwegian Formula or E45 after the days work helps slow down the problem, or stops it from starting. I'd guess a lot of 'us' have hands like rhinocerous hide, but it's possible to keep the skin supple, even if it is thick :)

I'd take a ride out to your local auto wreckers and pull the air con (hot/cold air blower) fan out of a car. Run it from a battery or battery charger. If you're lucky or patient enough you can take the switch gear from inside the car wiring loom to have additional control (three or more speed settings) and you can take some of the ducting too.
I've used these 12v blowers before and they work well. Just my 2 cents worth

When you make the next one try making the edge more convex than straight. It'll make it easier for you to get it to bite initially and roll your stock as you cut. Take a look at some of Brian Brazeals tools to see what I mean. Briliant first effort though. Kudos!

They're based in Ironbridge I believe, I met Chris Topp there a few years ago at a BABA convention. He seemed a decent enough Bloke when I spoke to him and knows a lot about wrought iron, good Smith too.
IF you can't get hold of any wrought from your side of the pond then he's well worth a phone call IMO

Stunner John, really is a beautiful bit of work. Have you got the furniture put on it yet?

you might try the Royal Amouries in leeds? They have a website you can google

I started by tipping my melting furnace (I was making silver and gold jewelery) on its side and putting in a bit of railway tie rod/clmap. Beat it against a four foot length of railway tie with a ball pein hammer and a pair of mole grips.
Now five or so years have gone by, I've travelled to a lot of places all over the globe, met some amazing guys, learned a few tricks and I have my own forge in London thats just starting to take off.

Well said John

gets more interesting at 1m 35secs at very funny shortly thereafter. These lads are complete 'planks'!

There's a few ways I can think of forging a Thor's hammer (Mjollnir) pendent. You could do it in the same way as making a nail until the point where you'd upset the nail head. You'd have to keep one side of head equal in thickness to the shaft of the nail as you upset it. Or you could split the end of the nail instead of upsetting it and forge it out into the T shape. Just curl the other end into a small loop for the thong, chain, etc to go through.

Anyone ever used rock/concrete breaker bars?
I've got two of them about an inch to inch and a half round bar by about 5 foot long.
I've already attacked one of them, cut the round point off one end and the curved tapered flat off the other. Bit of forging and welding and I've got a Round punch and slitting chisel for my flypress. Also cut two 3 inch sections and fabbed up a fuller tool for it too.
I inherited them so no idea how much new ones cost but they're two nice lumps of tool steel that'll produce quite a few tools

I'm on the wrong side of the pond to be of much help, but I've heard the ratio of 1 to 2 dollars per pound in weight used by a few of the American chaps before when talking about pricing up anvils. I think thats for scrap value so an anvil in good nick will likely be more.
As to weight I'd hazard a guess that the anvil in the picture is 'around' the 1 1/2cwt mark at best(128lb to 1 cwt) probably nearer 1 1/4.
At the end of the day it's worth what you're willing to pay for it, but I wouldn't rush in, buyer beware and all that eh?

A friend gave me a "retablo" with a picture of St. Dunstan grabbing the devil's nose. In New Mexico, a retablo is a flat board upon which saints are painted. They are hung on the walls of many homes. The following is written on the reverse of this commercial retablo. "St. Dunston Patron of Blacksmiths, Jewelers Armorers and Locksmiths. Dunstan was archbishop of Canterbury in the 10th Century. He was banished by King Edwy for accusing the king of having sex! During his exile he took up blacksmithing. The devil came to him in the guise of a woman. Dunstan recognized the devil and caught him by the nose with his tongs. In 957 he was restored to office by the new king Edgar."

http://www.turleyforge.com Granddaddy of Blacksmith Schools

I've still got the centre punch that Brent gave me in exchange for a copy of some of my European leg photo's when we met at Alan Ball's place in Oz a few years ago. Only ever had to redress the point once in all that time. Really nice bloke and very good tool Smith

G'Day Doug,
great to see all the photo's of my fellow Pom's efforts, as well as everyone else from around the world of course.
I'm wondering if the leaves I made up at Moony's were included in among the Aussie contingency? No worries if they were, quite like the idea of being an honorary Aussie :)

Looks like it was yet another great year for MOONY's 'Get Hammered' event. Now that Alan Balls 'Hot Iron Muster' is most likely a thing of the past (a real shame and down to his very poor health) this looks set to become one of the biggest of the Aussie Blacksmithing shindigs.
I hope that I'll be able to make it over again, Glenn is one of the nicest blokes and I know that he has to work his ---- off to make this thing happen, along with some other blokes (like my other great mate from down under, Dale Russell) and that it put him out of pocket to do it, so i hope those of you lucky enough to go enjoyed yourselves.

I've really enjoyed reading this discussion

I too have had a lot of people who come by the forge ask what 'period' I work in. To the point that my stock answer is now "from about 10am till 5pm, Wednesdays to Sundays"
After that I will at least usually go on to say that if you could bring ANY metal worker from the past into my shop he would be able to recognise most of the tools I use.
In my own view it was the introduction of water power, firstly in liquid and then in steam form that allowed the introduction of labour saving machinery into the blacksmiths shop, all of which had a huge impact on what could be produced and at what rate, but the essential process of heating it and beating it hasn't changed at all.
I love the fact that I can produce work as my ancestors would have done using the tools that they would have had available but I equally love the fact that there are tools I have now to use that they didn't. For me it is the creation of the piece itself that is important, far more so than what I use to produce it

I'd agree with Beth, a kid that age willing to sweat for a fair old while is as rare as hens teeth John, one that'll sweat and then turn out summat that looks as good as that is as rare as rocking horse... well you get the picture
Good on you mate (for taking him on) and good on him (for proving he was worth taking on)

Some very good things to listen to here. I'm also on the first steps of making a living from Blacksmithing, but I've already found that it's vital to educate your potential clients as much as possible before you give them a price tag for something. I've got three jobs on at the moment and each of them are going to make a profit. Not a huge profit but a profit none the less. If I hadn't educated the clients as to why their 'lamp', 'custom hanging brackets', 'rose arbour arch with built in benches and planters' etc were going to cost 'x' amount when IKEA sells something similar for less than half the price then I'd have really struggled to turn any sort of profit at all.
All my clients have actually seen me at work, two have even had a bit of a go at forging themselves, net result they can see that what we do is ruddy difficult and is worth the money we ask for because not everyone can do it. I place a large emphasis on the traditional skills we use over mass production, the artistic and unique nature of our products and the pride and attention to quality we place on every item that comes out of the Forge doors.
I also have more than one avenue to generate income, in fact right now I'm part way through applying for an adult education teachers course and also a job at a local adult education centre. One will give me recognisable qualifications to teach, the other will pay me a decent rate for doing so.
Best thing is, I'll be teaching Blacksmithing there if it works out.

Hotels?!!! Bed and Breakfasts!!! Eh? I thought Aussies were the rufty tufty outdoorsy types?
A proper shower? An outdoor dunny WITHOUT the budgies? Witchcraft I tell you!! It's not natural!

Man, what I'd give for a chance to be out in the outback again.... city life sucks, but it's a necessary evil right now. Hope everyone has a blast :D

How would a squirrel cage fan motor from a central air system work for a buffer? Too much or too little?