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I Forge Iron

Nick Esposito

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Posts posted by Nick Esposito

  1. I was considering buying a harbor freight letter stamps set for putting my initials on forged work. The website claims that the stamps are High carbon, Although we all know that harbor freight tools are often of dubious quality.  If I get the iron hot enough, will the stamps hold up?  

     

    Any thoughts?

     

    http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/stamping/36-piece-1-4-quarter-inch-steel-letter-number-stamping-set-35121.html

     

     

    If this is a bad Idea, then where would I get a real touchmark? 

  2. I am more or less of a beginner and am looking for two pair of tongs that are the most versatile, and that fit my needs. I generally forge round and square rods that are 1/2 inch and under. What type of tong would handle these types of stock well? I get the impression that V-bit tongs and Wolf-jaw tongs are best for my applications. Any thoughts? 

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  3. I'm really needing a real anvil. After using far inferior improvised anvils for a while and using real anvils in my Guild's shop, I am getting the itch to own a real anvil.  I plan to ask my guild members if they have or know of any for sale. I am looking for something not to heavy, probably more or less than 100 lbs. I am not able to spend over $300. Ebay and craigslist are unreliable and overpriced. 

     

    Is this a reasonable budget for an anvil in good condition and In that weight?  I thought about buying a new farrier anvil, but they are not really suited for blacksmithing and have all sorts of annoying shapes on them.

     

    What are your thoughts?

  4. I'm still not quite understanding the hazards associated with UV and IR radiation from the forge. Is this only a hazard with a fire that is forge welding heat, or is it a hazard with any forge fire? What glasses should you use? I've heard some discussions on this forum say all you need is a welding shade #3, others recommend the didymium glasses. Is the principle concern UV or IR or both. I have found no common concensus on these forums. I love blacksmithing, but certainly want to keep my eyes in fine shape.

  5. The Blacksmiths Guild of the Potomac's annual "Spring fling"  this past weekend was a whole lot of fun. The three day event in Berryville,VA included demos from Colonial Williamsburg Blacksmith Chris Henkels,  Williamsburg Gunsmith Richard Sullivan and Massachusetts artist-blacksmith Carl Close. The demos were quite comprehensive . Also included were raffles, auctions and tailgating. Good times!

     

    Links to two short videos I took:

     

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFUAWy6zCxM

     

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jmNt2yDF_f0

     

     

    Demonstrator links:

     

    http://www.hammersmithstudio.com/history.html

     

    http://www.history.org/almanack/life/trades/tradebla.cfm

  6. Thanks! this basically confirmed my previous notion, that is that the process is just not worth the time or effort to fix a doorstop.   I have been in the process of finding a giant piece of mild steel for a while now. I guess I will just have to be a little more resourceful. Does welding a large piece of steel require preheat?

  7. I know this has probably been discussed a million times before on this forum but I guess I'll ask anyway.

     

    Is there any way of hard-facing a cheap cast iron doorstop? I have read that the process of welding on a hard face is a waste of time with no guarantee of success. that being said, is there any other way of doing this, such as epoxy glues or with fasteners. I am kind of obsessed with this, but I should probably just drop the idea and get a real anvil!

     

     

  8. I use the 3 lb Harbor frieght hammer that you replaced. Its ok, but the peen needs to be ground to the correct shape. Its cast steel and  not bad for $8. I would like to upgrade with one of those Swedish style cross-pien hammers. does anybody have experience with those?5044031000pedswedish75e.jpg

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