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Posts posted by Nick Esposito
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was your anvil cast iron? Cast iron is brittle and can crack if subject to a strong enough blow.
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I found a 150 lb. Hay Budden anvil on craigslist. It seems to be in fine condition minus some gnarly edges. How good do edges have to be for them to still be usable? The Seller wants $325. I would like to try and talk the price down. Is this a resonable deal?
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I was considering buying a harbor freight letter stamps set for putting my initials on forged work. The website claims that the stamps are High carbon, Although we all know that harbor freight tools are often of dubious quality. If I get the iron hot enough, will the stamps hold up?
Any thoughts?
If this is a bad Idea, then where would I get a real touchmark?
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I am more or less of a beginner and am looking for two pair of tongs that are the most versatile, and that fit my needs. I generally forge round and square rods that are 1/2 inch and under. What type of tong would handle these types of stock well? I get the impression that V-bit tongs and Wolf-jaw tongs are best for my applications. Any thoughts?
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I'm really needing a real anvil. After using far inferior improvised anvils for a while and using real anvils in my Guild's shop, I am getting the itch to own a real anvil. I plan to ask my guild members if they have or know of any for sale. I am looking for something not to heavy, probably more or less than 100 lbs. I am not able to spend over $300. Ebay and craigslist are unreliable and overpriced.
Is this a reasonable budget for an anvil in good condition and In that weight? I thought about buying a new farrier anvil, but they are not really suited for blacksmithing and have all sorts of annoying shapes on them.
What are your thoughts?
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I'm excited to see how this turns out.
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Is looking at hot iron a hazard, or just looking at the fire, or both?
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here an interesting PDF on the eye damage associated with IR.
http://www.optometry.co.uk/uploads/articles/33aa07d53d20b5cbc6f17ffc81f0dc94_Voke1990521.pdf
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I'm still not quite understanding the hazards associated with UV and IR radiation from the forge. Is this only a hazard with a fire that is forge welding heat, or is it a hazard with any forge fire? What glasses should you use? I've heard some discussions on this forum say all you need is a welding shade #3, others recommend the didymium glasses. Is the principle concern UV or IR or both. I have found no common concensus on these forums. I love blacksmithing, but certainly want to keep my eyes in fine shape.
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The Blacksmiths Guild of the Potomac's annual "Spring fling" this past weekend was a whole lot of fun. The three day event in Berryville,VA included demos from Colonial Williamsburg Blacksmith Chris Henkels, Williamsburg Gunsmith Richard Sullivan and Massachusetts artist-blacksmith Carl Close. The demos were quite comprehensive . Also included were raffles, auctions and tailgating. Good times!
Links to two short videos I took:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFUAWy6zCxM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jmNt2yDF_f0
Demonstrator links:
http://www.hammersmithstudio.com/history.html
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I know someone who has a mousehole and he says the rebound is superb. Although, That may not be the case with this particular specimen, it is worth taking into account.
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Make sure that Galvanized pipe doesn't get hot enough to produce fumes. Other than that, it looks great.
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Thanks! this basically confirmed my previous notion, that is that the process is just not worth the time or effort to fix a doorstop. I have been in the process of finding a giant piece of mild steel for a while now. I guess I will just have to be a little more resourceful. Does welding a large piece of steel require preheat?
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I know this has probably been discussed a million times before on this forum but I guess I'll ask anyway.
Is there any way of hard-facing a cheap cast iron doorstop? I have read that the process of welding on a hard face is a waste of time with no guarantee of success. that being said, is there any other way of doing this, such as epoxy glues or with fasteners. I am kind of obsessed with this, but I should probably just drop the idea and get a real anvil!
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Wow! the amazing part is how you ground down the horn into such a perfect shape. I'm inspired to make my own!
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I'm a new to all of this too, but the anvil seems quite serviceable if you don't mind the damage to the horn. The edges of the face seem nice, without chipping. Not bad at all in my opinion. depends on how much the seller asks for, as to whether or not it is worth it.
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whats the heaviest Anvil every made (in production)?
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Is this a real antique anvil, or a long lost cast iron boat anchor? the guy claims he found it while metal detecting. more pics with link.
FOR SALE, ANTIQUE (VERY VERY OLD) ANVIL. I DUG THIS UP
WHILE METAL DETECTING BACK IN 1980, 8 INCHS LONG 3 INCHS
TALL IT IS PAINTED BLACK TO STOP THE RUST CASH ONLY, -
Just ask around! I got my brake drum for free when I asked the owner of a local shell station. Yo might have to raise your budget a little to get good results. See if there is a Blacksmith organization or guild in your area. When I go to guild meetings, I have the opportunity to use the forges and anvils etc.. from shop that the guild runs.
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I wish I had that kind of cash for an anvil. Enjoy you're new companion!
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John, I was unsuccessfully looking for poor boy tools on Ebay. So they are out of business?
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I use the 3 lb Harbor frieght hammer that you replaced. Its ok, but the peen needs to be ground to the correct shape. Its cast steel and not bad for $8. I would like to upgrade with one of those Swedish style cross-pien hammers. does anybody have experience with those?
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Steve, he might use a cutting torch to fashion a horn or other such features. Sure it is not required, but It would make for a nicer anvil.
Anvilrama part 1 (viewer discretion advised)
in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
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how did you get all of these? have you just collected over the years?