Momatt

I would like to try out a brazeal style rounding hammer after watching some videos. I like the round and flat dies on the same hammer. Can't find any in the usual places. Does he sell them?

Well done.

These are fun. Had some trouble with faggot weld but managed one good one on the end of my rod I use to spread the BBQ coals

very nice and useful.

I really like the first one, nice taper, honest work, forging not hidden by grinding.

I may try and copy that one.

This little guy was my first bolster and first mosaic pin try. There was a giant oak near the town I grew up in called old knarly. It stood sentinel for at least two hundred years at the crossroads outside town. Lightning took it down and it burned like a blow torch as it was hollow in the late 90s. I took a few pieces of its charred remains and they have been in my shop for years. Old knarly makes up the scales. The blade was forged from 1080 and I got the heat treat and temper right this Time, it holds an edge chopping hard dry maple and is sharp. Easily makes a wire edge after honing which laps off on leather stop. Too bad I ground off most of my stamp.

Beauty for sure.

Eddie,  search you tube for John Neeman birth of a tool.  John and some friends started a company a year or so ago with John Neeman Tools as the name.  John has since separated and started Autine. 

Turned out pretty neat.

Looks really good for a first knife.  The leaf spring should harden it doesn't have to be just practice, can be a functional knife! 

To my knowledge I am not color blind, however, I never see red in hot steel only shades of orange to yellow then white. I see cherry red on color charts, red cool aid, blood, etc., never in steel. I think I've seen red in a YouTube video of steel never in my forge or on hot metal as it cools through the spectrum

Made these yesterday out of 1080. sheep horn on one micarta on the other. Sheepskin horn is neat almost clear in places.

Wyatt and I have been working on his knife. Blade is cleaned up on the grinder, copper bolsters roughed out and he has picked mammoth ivory for the scales. I hope some day he gives it to his grandson and remembers making it with his dad. I told him it was magic, that the blood of each harvest would make it more powerful since handles made from the tusk of a great beast from another age. At nine the eyes get big and believe it all. I skinned my last elk with a smaller blade so this will be useful later on too.

Neat!

I hope to turn out one tat nice some day

Jordan be careful trying to blacksmith without tongs, hot metal flying up in the air is no joke. You can buy a cheap set of tongs off eBay or order quick tong banks real cheap. Pliers and vice grips will get you burned I I have scars to prove it. Real tongs are awesome, grip so hard with no effort.

I like it, looks like it belongs tucked in some man from the 1850s belt.  Is the wrap at the top of the handle rawhide?

I like the shape of the blade. Nice job

Nice work, blade, handle and sheath very nice. Mosaic pin a nice touch.

Thanks for sharing John.  I ordered a Baltic Goosewing one year ago today from you guys.  Jacob sent me a email saying it was ready this weekend.  I am sorry that it was not forged by you.  Your birth of a tool video got me interested in blacksmithing and while I am still an unskilled rookie I have begun to make tools, some turn out pretty good.

Best regards,

Matt

Made the knife and sheath yesterday. Forged the blade from a farriers rasp. Handle leftover hardwood floor. Hand stitched a sheath which turned out ok I thought.

My weekend output. These will go to my cousin for spoon and Bowl carving. Larger hook was a file. Smaller hook was a toasted drill bit. Drill must have been a2 as it was hard as heck without quench. Adze was a ball pien hammer. My method for the hook is after forging, polish back and sharpen fully, back to forge and gently curve on horn. Re heat and quench, when you wash off the oil the hook is sharp and ready to go, just a quick leather stropping. Anyone who has tried to sharpen a hook will see the benefit.

I kind if like the knob. It might look a little more subtle if it was half as long, which you could accomplish by turning the top down a bit. I imagine your customer will like it.

DC, I bought a lot of them off ebay, they were mixed brands.  What I did was heat them up, quench in water then see if they broke.  Some did and some bent.  The brand markings were generally pretty hard to spot.  On this blade I quenched in vegetable oil that I reheated with a piece of hot iron.  I then put it in my oven at about 375 for an hour.  All guesswork on my part as I am not a very good bladesmith just a beginner.