Gobae

These are made by Kutzall and I got this one from Woodcraft. There's another company called Saburr-Tooth that makes a remarkably similar product. Unfortunately, their (Saburr-Tooth) website has no prices so I didn't investigate further.

I used profile "A", the rounder one.

Yes, I looked into those. But, after asking around the Woodnet forum I was told that they weren't particularly great on end grain or doing sloping curves. I should expound a bit about the guard issue. Those burrs ARE designed specifically for a 4" right angle grinder. After taking a closer look at the issue it appears that at some point I dropped the grinder and bent the guard just enough that the burr rubbed on it. After some simple straightening it's up and running just the way it's supposed to.

For a long time I've been telling myself that I'd get around to making a dishing stump for making Celtic Bronze and Iron Age cauldrons. Having a friend with a lot of acreage getting the stumps were no problem. My bigger issue was how to go about hollowing out the depression. Certainly, I could start working a vessel hot and just let it burn out as I worked. But given the size of the cauldron I planned to make that could take a while. Finally, a friend pointed me to these: They are a tungsten-carbide burr designed specifically for grinding out wood. I bought the coarsest available and it really hogs out the wood. In 20 minutes I dug out a 9" dia bowl form in white oak end grain. It rarely clogs (green or punky wood were the only things I've found that clog it) and when it does it's easily cleaned with a wire brush. The only downsides are that I had to remove the guard from my right-angle grinder because these discs are thicker than the typical wheel. (I plan to modify the guard so it fits again). The second is the amount of "saw" dust. with that coarse a burr I had anticipated shavings or chips, but it gives off a ton of dust. So, good ventilation is a must. So if you need to shape big dishing stumps these burrs work fantastic!

Wow, very interesting thread. It looks like a lot of people are using "light" hammers (right around 2#). Of course I switch hammer weights as needed, but the bulk of the stock I work with means I'm often using my 3# cross-pein (octagon face), and my 1500g French cross-pein.

One of the first chimneys we installed did go out the side of the building. But that meant there was about a 4' horizontal run to get from the forge, out through the wall, and past the roof overhang. That one rotted out along the bottom of horizontal and had virtually no draft. It's beginning to look like the best way to deal with this is to suck it up and find a decent method of getting 12" through the roof. Or get a bigger exhaust fan

No problem, done. But "where in the world" are you located? I'm sure it must seem like you live at IForge, but I bet you have a physical location too.

Unfortunately, that won't work in this case. The roof uses corrugated asphalt panels for the roofing and the flashing that matches the corrugation ripples are only available through the roofing manufacturer. And they don't have 12" dia flashing. So, back to the original question. Is it worth bothering to use 12" diameter pipe if it's just going to get reduced down to 8"? Edited to add. The 12" x 8" air duct is what is getting THROWN OUT. I'm considering replacing it with 12" round.

Here's the issue. My old cobbled together chimney is finally dead. It was an assortment of 12"x8" hot air duct and where it went through the roof it converted to 8" round. It never worked all that great and so I thought I'd go with 12" dia pipe. But then it occurred to me that since I can't get a chimney boot / flashing for 12" I'd still have to reduce down to 8" to get through the roof. SO, is it even worth it to use 12" below the roof if I have to reduce down to 8" to get through the roof? If it IS worth it, where should the conversion take place? Just before the passthrough or can it be further down?

Well, I would certainly MAKE another hinge fuller again. The one I made has an adjustable hinge point allowing it to be used on a variety of stock thicknesses. I use it on a regular basis for isolating the area that will become knife/sword tangs or spear sockets. It's great!

It's not that bad. Bring the HSS up to orange and hold for 15 minutes, then leave in the hot coals and let the fire die out. That will effectively give you the ultra slow cool down that HSS requires. I've made wood chisels, lathe tools, and HOT cuts from HSS w/o any issues.

Some other type of blade would be the obvious answer. But if you can determine what type of steel lathe blades are typically made from you could probably made quite a number of other tools from it. I actually wouldn't be surprised if it turned out to be one of the High Speed Steels (HSS). Many woodworking blades are switching to them because they can used and sharpened without regard for over heating. This works because their annealing range doesn't start until something like 1300-1500F. So bluing a blade doesn't affect it at all. If it does turn out to be HSS, it'll make very nice hot chisels and other tools like that.

I used to listen to them until their band manager decided to renege on their contractual obligations at our Celtic festival. Now they're persona non-grata. So instead I listen to Enter the Haggis, Wolfstone, Seven Nations, Gaelic Storm, Rathkeltar, and Coyote Run.