George Geist

You think of maybe dispensing with the welding formality?

Get a damascus billet then cut and forge it to whatever you want

George

7 hours ago, Lutz said:

I believe I found your anvil's sibling. I just picked it up a few days ago and I have not yet had a chance to clean off the paint and uncover the serial number. 

An interesting one you have there. Has a cliphorn but only one pritchel hole. Is sort of half blacksmith and half horseshoer pattern. I knew for a time they made blacksmith patterns with extra big horns for all purpose work, but never saw a real hybrid like that one before. Nice find.

George

Celebrate St Dunstan's Day!

In this part of the country those old wagon wheel tires were often used to make hinges. The real long strap hinges that can be seen on the old barns are still pretty plentiful. The stuff is where you find it like everything else. Is just a matter of keeping your eyes open and paying attention to detail of your surroundings.

George

Yeah I intend to use it. Trough weld. Is like I said I've not seen the stuff yet but I'll soon get some.

Figure if not good for a rifle barrel it should definitely be good for something else. What little experience I have messing with iron I've loved the stuff.

George

10 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said:

Bloom => Muck Bar => Singly Refined Wrought Iron => Doubly Refined Wrought Iron => Triply Refined Wrought iron => ...

Now what you are trying to use it for determines quality for that task.  I had a friend that needed some WI so I cut and mailed him a bunch of high grade wrought iron, lovely stuff forged like butter, welded like it's last name was smith-miller.  He hated it as he wanted to use it for blade fittings and then etch it to get the rough pattern of low grade wrought iron.  I replaced it with wagon tyre.

Real wrought can often be forged at yellow to white heat and so be dead soft compared to modern steels that are burning at the working point of WI.

So muckbar will make a blade that a good celtic smith would be ashamed of; or an artistic sculptural piece etched to show the "grain" that would stand proud in most museums.

Mr Powers,

Question for you. One project I've had on back burners for a long time now is to build my own Pennsylvania Long Rifle.

Yes I know there are various kits for doing that but they're essentially just a matter of assembly. I'm wanting to forge out the barrel and really do it right start to finish. To do so will require wrought iron. I located a place that has some old stuff from a bridge getting torn down that is exactly in the 3" width I was wanting. I know the information is kinda limited being as I haven't even seen the stuff yet but in your opinion would such structural type wrought iron be a good choice for a project like that?

George

What did you use for the clinch cutters? Leaf spring? I've used old rasps for them but really hate using old rasps for most stuff.

Neither, just wood. Pine I think

Nice work

Here's my knife:

http://horseshoersforum.invisionzone.com/index.php?/gallery/album/1-hoof-knife/

Wish I'd have taken more pictures of more things.

George

Nice job on the stand. Looks like it should work out ok for you

George

I use a Forgemaster Blacksmith model. Was best gas forge on the market till the Hypona came along. I think if I were in the market for another gas forge I'd go with one of them.

George

Like that other guy said prices are up right now. Personally I'd pass on it because I have 5 other anvils and don't need any more. However, if that weren't the case and I wanted or needed another anvil I'd jump on it. It's a good one.

Go ahead and buy it. It's only money you'll make more of it next week.

George

This guy has a real nice shop up in Montreal. He rents it for $5 an hour. He didn't go into too much detail about it though. Makes me wonder if it's for any smith or just people he trained? Interesting deal though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wOx7m3D6guY

George

Only 2 things Blacksmiths can go to hell for- hitting cold iron and not charging enough.

I was also told never work without beer

George

Also consider this. You really need not worry too much about hardies fitting your anvil. Whatever doesn't fit in your anvil will certainly fit in your vise

George

Is it clean? Good stuff? At that price it might be worth a trip from back where I live too.

I notice there is some kind of credit financing deal on paypal too. Saw it on fleabay for something matchless antiques had up for sale.

That could be an option as well.

Also, Forgot to mention earlier but I'm sure on behalf of all of us thank you very much for your service sir.

George

10 minutes ago, Daswulf said:

If you make a stand, I would hope you make it suiting to the look of the anvil.  

Someone cared enough to atleast try to fix that anvil. It's great that it atleast get some use however many years later. 

Neat thing about those type of anvils is the stepped feet on them make for great upset blocks. Be sure whatever stand you make doesn't cover any of that up. Is interesting because those kind of anvils usually have church windows too. The fact that one doesn't is unusual.

Put one on your credit card? Seller is happy he gets paid. Buyer (you) is happy being able to finance. Everybody's happy.

On 9/30/2016 at 11:22 AM, aessinus said:

Have to wonder how that got busted.  Under a big power hammer?  Anvil shooting?  A really enthusiastic smith get his hands on Mjölnir?

On 9/30/2016 at 2:00 PM, Smoggy said:

Don't do a lot of anvil shooting over this side of the pond as far as I'm aware ( not comensurate with the laws here ) .....but......given it's likely age it may well have seen at least one major altercation......so could even have been bombed.....you never know!

This is pretty much what I was thinking. It looks like somebody else said Czech or I was thinking maybe Austro-Hungarian or south German but whatever. It's very possible the thing might be a casualty of war. Somehow it made its way to England though. If this stuff could only talk

Is good that you've mastered this fundamental already. If heat control remains a problem I'd recommend a gas forge.

George

10 minutes ago, Black Frog said:

I sold a PW that had the same problem that I got at an auction for rather cheap.  It was fully cracked in half at the waist.  Even though it was cracked, it had exceptional rebound.   The buyer had a welder friend, and we talked about a fix.  What he did was grind a deep V groove all around the waist following the crack line.  Preheated the anvil a bit, being careful of the face temps.  Welded the V groove, and the anvil is as good as new.

Did he Tig the root before stick welding the groove? Just curious as to how they did it.

George

I'd say on most contemporary anvils of 200# or less it's much more often than not 7/8". If not, is usually 1".

Although there is no standardization it is I believe moving in that direction.

George

Looks like a real POS. Anybody try one yet? They just for export?

George