homeshow

Drifting must be done when the metal is at it's softest.  For me that's almost to welding heat.  Also I look at the area around the eye while I'm driving the drift.  Watch for the area in contact with the drift when it cools stop hitting.  I usually get 5 or 6 good hits before the metal is too hard.  Hard Metal cracks soft Metal shapes more easily.  Practice practice you will get the feel for it.

Work in progress.  Need dirt work concrete etc.

Building will be 20x48. Smithy will be 1/2 that 20x24.

Really like this blade  design.  I do mine in sheet metal.   That way I can keep it close to the forge and anvil when making a "copy".  Paper tends to go up in smoke when I'm near hot coal.

Mild steel wrap around 5160 core.  Tennessee hickory handle.  Been using it for a few weeks.  Love the geometry of it.  Cuts and split beautifully. 

A friend wants a rebar knife.  rebar butter knife? Ok.  Rebar letter opener? Ok.  Rebar knife?  Not so sure.  So some options are weld a blade into a socketed rebar handle.  Epoxy a blade into a rebar handle ala stag handle.  Hammer weld a carbon blade to a rebar handle.  Or make a mold and take some 5160 or 1080 round stock and make the real steel appear to be rebar.  I like the idea.  I'm not thrilled with the challenge. I don't make wall hangers so it must be real world usable.

I never liked the new format of ifi.  I don't think its compatible with a Lot of android devices.  Like this s tablet

My buddies nephew had a birthday.  So I threw together a sheath for my current kindling splitter. His dad has been trying to wear it out.  Mild steel wrap and a farrier's rasp bit.  I'm thinking of making a few to take to craft show.  Any pricing suggestions?

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Stormcrow i need a suggestion for kydex sheath material and parts suppliers.  I don't have an arbor press.  so I'm still putting things together by hand.  I need to go kydex on a hawk sheath for a friends nephew redeploying this summer.  I'm sending a hawk but not going with the usual leather sheath.  Thanks

Built this 10X10 shop from;

free metal from job site

Logs from fallen trees 

2by bought at Lowe's the 50 bucks

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Did you tripple anneal and draw file the blade?

Sweet! Great traditional lines. Makes me want to make sashimi!

Steve is correct from quench Directly into the toaster (tempering) oven is how I do it. Also did you quench in warm (160-180f) oil? I always quench in warm oil.

I need tp make a portable shop from an enclosed 5X10 trailer. I'm thinking post vice on a truck wheel mounted stand, propane forge w/table and grinders on tables with locking casters. Maybe a metal roofed awning? Doesn't have to be.period. I just travel a lot for work and don't want to give up bladesmithing.

Will52100 you just named that chunk of firewood next to my anvil. Thanks! :-). Frosty good luck on your next swocker hunt.

Here is my buddy's grinder. Mine has the wheels and pullies getting ordered today. If you can weld or know someone who can making one is a great project.

Rust lol

Momatt what flux are you using? I like 20 mule team borax.

10XX series is easy to work.

Well said Crookedpath.

Frosty you can not talk about a knife and not include a photo

Where?

I do all filing and grinding after normalizing and before hardening. Most Files skate right off of a well hardened blade. I like the look of the final product.

I did a series of "working " knives handles from black dickies work pants layered with my old gray work uniform shirts.

If you know how to do a soft back draw, temper then do the draw. It will be a little easier to straiten, but work it while at tempering temps. If you've never had to straiten a blade, there are many methods. I just put mine in the vice and use my twisting wrench to tweak them.

I tweak with a vice and twisting wrench. Quench for .10 seconds, check the edge and spine for straight Quickly quick. Then back into the quench oil. Cool completely then straight into the toaster oven.