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I Forge Iron

Black Ink

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Posts posted by Black Ink

  1. I prefer the stuff made by my not so distant ancestors, Sammy Smith .But I can enjoy a nice Belgium.P.S If you want the name Pour Boy to stick you have to switch to somthing like Natty Ice or Blue Ribbin or Schlitz.Thanks Millsie

  2. It's rumered that NDT (Non Destructive Testing)was first thought of in the 1800's when man noticed water vibrating out of cracks on railroad tracks when they moved or hit them.Then they realized they can have a better contrast if they mixed kerosene with dirty engine oil and hit it with a hammer.So heres a way to check some scrap or whatever you want before you put hours into a piece to later break a piece off.First you want somehting with low viscosity like wd40 and mix it with something to give it contrast like red food coloring then you need either dry talc or even a thin layer of spray deoderant will work.First clean the part with solvent remover,letdry for 5 min.nextapply penetrant,let sit for 20 min,wipe off with dry rag."If its cast you might want to spray a little cleaner on a rag and give it a quick wipe",then litely apply a thin coat of talc and wait 10 min. If there is a crack youll see it plain as day.Its best to test it on a piece you know is cracked to see the results . I hope I saved one of you from stess later.:)

  3. Hi,I know you've all seen this question a million times before,but I happened to get 5 bags of fire clay cheap and I have a piece of 16"O.D. pipe.I was gonna weild in some 1/8" round with some V's bent In them.Can anyone tell me the best mixture for the pack ,can it be poured into a mold,and how thick should it be?
    TIA Jason

  4. Thanks for all your advise.I'm gonna take it into work and have a P.M.I test done on it and find out the material.Then I'm gonna use a welding procedure book that I got from a boiler rat friend of mine.I'll take pics,and keep everyone informed.I might even be able to have a rocwell test done on it ,does anyone know what the hardness should be?

  5. I recently bought a 100 lb. Fisher anvil from 1883. When I bought it, it looked liked it had been badly mistreated. I searched forums and took the most common advice on how to fix the anvil, and now have 3/4 inch long cracks transverse to the weld, a lot of it pre existing in the hardy etc. I noticed them buffing the face with a 80 grit sandpaper, and then did a penetrant test on it. What should I do? Should I just leave it alone, or are these cracks going to keep getting longer? TIA

  6. Hi, my name is Jason and I am a NDT technician. I've also been in metal fabrication for 12 years. Just started blacksmithing and I have an anvil, 100 lb. Fisher from 1883 that I've grown attached to. Looking foward seeing a lot of peoples' ideas and sharing my own.

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