Ken G

If I may suggest, check the below websites.  The Americanlongrifles site dedicated to gun building.  It's loaded with guys willing to help.  The Toadhall website is Steve Bookout's.  He is a retired builder now but used to have a barrel welding class once a year.  He is one of the most experienced barrel welders I know.  He authored a couple of small books on building a barrel rifling machine.

http://www.americanlongrifles.org/forum/

http://toadhallrifleshop.com/

One of the best suggestions I have read (on this board) was to put flexible conduit over the propane line to protect it from accidently being bumped by a piece of hot steel.

No I don't.  Sure hoping it turns out to be wrought.  I'll try to cut and bend a piece this evening.

Couldn't pass up a bunch of 1"x1" stock.  It's already got a twist but that might come in handy.

Ken

Will an anvil work with a completely flat face like that?  and no chips on the corners?   Very nice!  I too am jealous. 

Ken

Just a personal preference since they both look good in their own way.  I like the clean lines and simplicity of the first/top one.

Ken

Yes, building a Southern Mt. or E. TN. style rifle is the way to go for a blacksmith project.

Love the pair.  Very nice craftsmanship.

I have used 3 parts sand and 1 part Portland cement and it works great for me.  The best thing is it is available at the local big box store and it's cheap.  Occasionally I need to patch a crack or the area in the fire bowl.  It's pretty durable

I tried Cat litter years ago and it crumbled very easily and I would have to reline after every forge session. 

Ken

Here's a picture of the vise temporarily mounted for clean up.  It works as is but I'll make a new mount bracket and spring at some point. 

Ken

I am happy to report that this morning that rust very reluctantly gave up its death grip and the screw backed out. Once I got the threads cleaned up it will screw in and out with one finger.  I have to give credit to Kroil Oil as the thing that seemed to tip the scales in my favor. 

Thanks to this that posted suggestions and encouragement. 

Ken

Home Depot is supposed to carry Kroil but the local store does not have it.  I've heard it is the best for stubborn rusted bolts.  If all else fails I may give pressurizing some penetrating oil a try. 

Thanks for the suggestions. 

Ken

Here's the multi-piece screw box.  Much different than the cast one.

Ken

I appreciate your posting and mentioning the possibility.  I too have seen good intentions end in serious damage due to lack of knowledge.

Thanks,

Ken

It looks to be a one piece box to me.  I have another vise that is as you said, made up of several pieces brazed together.  My guess is this vise is from the early/mid 1900s.  Not old, just rusted. 

Thanks for the suggestions and encouraging words.  I'll stay after it and try to repress any urges to get the gorilla hammer and show it who's boss.   The rust will eventually yield to penetrating oil, heat and occasional but mild hammer shock treatment.

Ken

P.S.  The PB Blaster is now referred to as Wife Repellant.  That could work for you or against you.  You decide when to use it. 

Last weekend I purchased a rusted/frozen vise on the chance I could get it freed up and become serviceable again.  I have soaked it in Liquid Wrench, WD40, Transmission Fluid, PB Blaster, heated the screw box, and hammered on it every night.  Not even a speck of movement on the screw.  The pivot leg that was stuck fast is now flopping around but the screw refuses to budge. 

I know, let it soak and keep after it.  Patience is the key to defeating anything rusted tight.  I just needed to share and hopefully someone can give me some encouraging words or success stories that will give me hope.

Ken

The whole "striker" thing didn't fly well with my wife after the first hammer blow .  Maybe I should have tried the concept when the kids were still at home! 

Good find.

Ken 

Very nice looking work.  Thanks for sharing the pictures and how too.

Ken

I found this at one of the local antique stores this weekend.  5 1/2" Jaws.  Missing the mounting bracket and the screw is froze up solid.  I hope I can get the screw moving again and call this a good deal at $56.   I have the bell filled with transmission fluid, WD 40, and Liquid Wrench.  I can barely make out OHIO stamped in one of the legs.   

I wouldn't waste any time or money trying to repair or fix the anvil.  I wouldn't lose any sleep over it being a bad deal.  I would just use it until I found a better one at a decent price.  I've used far worse.   

I can't help you with the anvil identification but I think the 1 0 23  will convert to 135 lbs.  I like the deer bust.  Nice work.

Ken  

Stovestoker,

I think some of those folks saying you could get a "new one for that" may be talking about farrier anvils. The NC tool anvils are only going to be in the 70lb to 112lb range but they are under $500.  I've never used one and my own opinion would be to hold out to find a used blacksmith anvil. 

Ken

KYBOY,

That was ChiChi that had forged several locks from scratch. 

Ken

Thought that might be you. There's not a lot of folks welding barrels and even fewer that haven't been to Bookie's.  I'm very impressed with the 4 locks!  That's an accomplishment in itself.  Glad to know you are posting here.

Cheers,

Ken