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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by territorialmillworks

  1. Thanks for all the great advise/help...... I've had good results with 4140 for PH dies but have had mixed results with punches/chisels. Never shy about admitting my ignorance, I'd never heard of 1045. Checked it out..definitely more forgiving. Ebay it is...........Keith
  2. I've been making bowls lately and have found that I need to forge a 3# rounding hammer. I have 2x2 4140 stock. Should I upset the stock first and then forge to round or forge to round and then upset? What size eye should I punch for this size hammer and where is a good source for hammer handles? Thx Keith
  3. I found this hammer while drinking coffee this morning and thought it worth while to share. This is a fabricated hammer by a University of Kentucky student that I would describe as inventive, unique, committed and SCARY lol FRANK 1A.pdf
  4. Thanks guys for the replies....Think I'll give the wedge adapter a try....
  5. I found a 4" diameter mushroom stake tool that has a square taper "post". To be useful in making bowls, I would need to adapt it to fit in the hardy hole of my anvil. Can it be welded and if so, how? Have stick, mig and tig but no experience with ductile iron...thx, Keith
  6. With the dimensions of your forge, I doubt that any squirrel cage blower will give you the static pressure that you will need. I use an Eclipse impeller type blower with 2.8 WC which supplies a 4.5" X 9" burner. This blower is similar to the one offered by Pine Ridge Burners. Their website has a lot of good info/guide lines and they sell the following: 164 CFM @ 2.5" WC Static Pressure Power cord, switch, and intake damper included Price $220.00 Give them a call. They were very helpful when I was building my forge.
  7. The hydraulic fluid is fire resistant mil spec given to me by a bladesmith. Flash point is 501 deg F. I want to do this right so I don't have to do it twice LOL. Where can I get SS foil?? Thanks for the help....Keith
  8. Decided to make a die for forging bowls and came across a 6" diameter 3" thick piece of 4140 cheap. I machined the top and bottom for different size top dies. Having never heat treated anything this large, I've got a few questions.....How long a soak at high heat (1550F) ? Should I water quench or use the six gallons of aviation hydraulic fluid that I have? Is 6 gallons enough?? Any other suggestions are appreciated.............
  9. After racking my brain, I finally solved the issue of the tup not parking in the up position. Turns out that the spring tension on the butterfly exhaust valve was not making a tight seal. Now I could say that I solved this by deductive reasoning or just admit that I stumbled on it out of dumb luck. Thanks to all of you for your help.......Keith
  10. Mike, after looking at your second photo, I can see that you have a different pilot valve arrangement. The plans that I worked from have the pilot valve triggered against the tup itself rather than a short ramp in your hammer. This would explain why it doesn't "park" in the up position. How long is the straight portion of your ramp? Called Parker about the spool valves leaking where the pilot port is bolted to the valve body. Tech support was outstanding. They had engineers trying to figure out why it was leaking and folks pulling a new valve to ship it out to me today. None of thi
  11. Mike, I reversed the hoses - no go Yes, the exhaust is a butterfly valve because of it's linear metering. Originally I used a Norgren valve but when it failed, they told me that delivery of a spool kit would take 2-3 weeks because they had to pull one from the assembly line and build it that particular valve....the price was almost that of a new valve. So I replaced it with the 3/4" port Parker valve for nearly the price of the Norgren spool. That valve leaked assembly grease where the pilot port is bolted to the end of the spool body. MSC, the vendor, replaced it with no questions. Th
  12. Mike-the cylinder is a new Bosch-Rexroth 2.5" X 10 with 3/8" ports that I got for $65. I've looked at different makes of cylinders and couldn't find any with 1/2" ports till you get to 3.5" bore. I could re-tap the top port to 1/2" but can't see the need now. This was part of my decision to go with 3/4" plumbing. Here is a link of the hammer drawing a taper from 1/2" bar at 80 PSI and approx. 100 BPM. Adjusting the stroke and pressure, I was able to get 150-180 BPM.
  13. This hammer frame started out as a mechanical hammer that got modified to a tire hammer that got modified to an early style Kinyon. None of them performed well. So when my air cylinder died, I started over with a Parker B834000XXA valve with 3/4 ports and 7.0 CV. All lines/check valve/fittings were 3/4. I had 1/2" UHMW plastic on hand but needed 3/16". No problem, ran it through a wood planer... love it when a plan comes together LOL. Machined the ram for a super smooth finish. Turns out the frame was not aligned with the anvil so I bolted 3/4" plates to the frame so I could tweak the hammer g
  14. Building another hammer, this time a Kinyon Mark II. Most builds use 4X4 sq tubing for a 40# ram but others add weight for as much as an 80# ram. Seems that at some point there is a trade off between kinetic energy and speed. But my main concern is 'control'. I've upgraded this hammer with a 3/4" control valve and plumbing along with an additional 80 gal air tank. So I'm not concerned with starving this hammer. I'd appreciate any thoughts/suggestions.....Keith
  15. Didn't know that you could plant them and get them to grow like that..
  16. Ciladog......Have a Kinyon style hammer that recently had the control (spool) valve sieze up. Decided to upgrade with a higher cv rating valve, a second air tank nearer to the hammer and larger plumbing. Current 1/2" check valves have what looks internally to be a disc that exhaust through several radial spaced holes. I've seen other check valves that use a spring loaded ball. So I'm thinking that if there is a better style check valve, now would be the time to do it. Thanks for any input................
  17. Upgrading my ph and was wondering which style of check valve would give the best flow rate. The poppet valves that I have seem to be pretty restrictive. Any suggestions/recommendations appreciated
  18. Whew....and I thought I was alone with this afliction. Is there a medical term, are there group therapy sessions, is it fatal, can I still live a normal life? Last time I moved, I scraped a half ton. Sure not looking forward to another move
  19. Mike-hr: These are clearly non-standard o-rings....very thin. They are so small as to be difficult to remove without scratching the spool. My guess is the kit includes the spool and gaskets Macbruce: Parker was going to be my next stop as there is a distributor 4 miles from my house. I'd really appreciate a part number for a valve with a 5 CV rating. Thx, K
  20. The Norgren valve on my hammer seized up pre-maturely after two years of light use. I called a distributor who told me that there was not a single valve kit in any of the the US distributors. Delivery on a new $275 valve, was 2-3 weeks. This is the same valve used by many for Kinyon hammers. I called Norgren direct and was told the same for cost and delivery time. I asked if this was an obsolete or low sale volume valve -- No..Asked about a kit and was told $68 and 2-3 weeks delivery. When pressed, was told that they would have to pull one off the assembly line and assemble it for that va
  21. Showered and shaved and ready to go out with the wife when she stops and gives me a look...whhhaaaat? "Go clean your nose, you've got black boogers." Yes sir, I know how to impress the ladies alright....good thing I married cause social skills, personal hygiene and charming good looks came and went years ago.
  22. I recently salvaged a 3.5 hp treadmill motor that I intended to put on my mill. But when I looked around the shop, I had most of the materials for a sander...,bearings,spring, knobs, handles, 80/20 extrusion, aluminum base plate. All I needed was some round bar for the drive and tracking pulleys and a controller. The KBMG-212D driver cost $145 but was worth the money. It allows for load matching of the motor amp rating and a trimpot adjustment to limit top speed/voltage and it adjusts the amperage to match the load when sanding/grinder to maintain speed. Things I learned: Read the direct
  23. Recently purchased a grizzly swivel head bandsaw cause i frequently make picture and mirror frames. Dead on straight cuts wihen using quality blades. I had to tweek the auto shut-off switch but for once, a purchase that exceeded my expectations Walker turner bandsaw? I bought a walker turner drill press for $75 15 years ago and still going strong
  24. Finishing kmg grinder clone with 3.5 hp DC treadmill motor. Have to wait a couple weeks for the controller. But I really want to run the grinder to check for allignment and direction of rotation. The motor is rated for 130 volts. Can I hook up a car battery for a no load test run. And yes, I'm out side of my knowledge base as to DVD motors lol. Thx. Keith
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