TheoRockNazz

Looks great, I need more pictures of that last one though!

Thank you

You turn it into a knife!

This is a Christmas present to myself. It's based off my favorite weapon from my favorite video game.

Wrought iron recycled from wagon wheels and 15n20 outer layers, Cruforge core with 15n20 shims. Handle is leftover G10 and red spacers. I made the knife to test out the blade, since this was my first iron san-mai piece. 

First test was cutting leather and penetration. First stab went through three layers of 3/16" leather and then stuck in the frozen stump... in hind-site it was poor choice to work with wood that's been outdoors.

Then I chopped up some 3/4" red cedar that was left over from residing the house. I was too tentative to go full strength because I had too short a piece to hold comfortably, but still chopped nicely.

In the game it was sharp enough to cut off a Rathalos' wing, so I tried that out - popped that sucker right off.

Lastly I shaved some leg hair.

Here's the game knife, you can see I took some liberties.

I'm certain we've all gotten requests for knives or swords from video games, I'd love to hear about some of them from y'all, please share.

Theo

Yes, of course, please share. I'm sorry for your loss.

I work in 3d modelling programs and even I would have a hard time getting those lines. Well done :)

The first one is by far my favorite. What's the blacksmith's knife steel?

Haha, thank you Metal. I'm still not the biggest fan of shiny; it's awful pretty but but as soon as it's used... that's why I like an etch, especially if there's a hamon. I couldn't figure out an order of operations to do the wood insert glued and sanded flush, and then acid etch the steel.

Thanks everyone! I usually shoot outdoors, but with the snow and all... having a proper little psyche and lighting setup is one of those "when I have money" things that I should just invest time into right now.

I wanted to try an integral, and the W1 I received recently was 1/2" thick, so I experimented a little. It was a lot tougher splitting the bar than I expected... getting a decent shot of the hamon was even tougher - it's amazing how it can be clear to the eye, but the camera won't pick up anything but glare. 

How do I get that split to be cleaner in the future? I didn't want to remove much material from the inside because I liked the weight, but now I feel I should have ground it down more to clean up that inside lip.

I've also recently forged chain for my first time. All the empty space inside made the first couple heats seemed as if it was compressing... which it was pretty much. After forged into a billet, it worked as easily as O1 and hardened similarly. Your pattern is more vibrant than mine though, I found it really subdued. Your knife is also nicer than the one I made, haha.

The girlfriend thought I was looking at food because I kept going "Mmm... mmm... wow". Those are amazing, beyond words. How do you get the same to wrap around so nicely?

Beautiful, just beautiful. How long do you etch your deferentially hardened steel for?

Owen, did you have to play with the airflow at all?

I've been using another smith's two burner venturi and I am fairly certain the mixture is ideal for this sort of welding - she has flames shooting 3-6" from the mouth at all times. 

Letting the piece soak for 15 mins should still be safe in a gas rich environment, right?

Inspiring as always. Is that a linseed oil finish?

Beautiful as always. Is there a hint of a clip in the drop, or is it the picture?

I spent a week at the forge figuring out how to get 1095 and 416 stainless to stick - wasted a snotload of steel. My solution was welding three sides, waiting til it was cool, giving it a hefty squirt of liquid wrench or whatever oil was at hand, then finish welding the box. I forged in a two propane burner and 50lb lil giant, so I worked quick. I think Nght nailed it with the air pockets though; I had flat-to-flat surfaces so the oil took care of any oxygen, may not work for a file.

Thank you.

I've done two now with similar forward-leaning curves, and while they chop really well, I miss the versatility of a traditional drop point. 

Hi guys,

I've got two new ones.

People tend to give me files, recently I got this neat one-sided Japanese file that was 1/16" thick. It went well with a tine I had laying around, which was fun to cut in half. Padauk and copper fittings. I thought I liked the rough, acid etched look on this one, but I should repolish.

This blade is probably the finest patternwelded blade I've done yet (excluding the work I did in Owen Bush's class) - san mai of low layer twist 15n20 and 5160 shell, with 756ish layer 15n20 and 1080 core. Partial tang - the first two pins go through it. Guard is forge-welded bike chain with the ends still unforged. Purpleheart with brass and mosaic pins. My maker's mark is tucked behind the guard. As always, my fighter's are thick. I think I like drop point fighter's a little more, although this shape is much more aggressive.

I left my linseed oil back in the city, so I just wet the handle for the pics.

My fit and finish still needs work, I think maybe I'm too focused on rushing towards advanced forging. In fact, recently I had to refund a deposit on a san-mai double-bladed barlow folding knife because I was not satisfied with the result (simply was not up to par). Now I am stuck not knowing if I should drop folding knives as part of my arsenal, or spend my personal-projects time on practicing folding knives.

Comments and critique welcomed,

Theo

I just posted it on the suppliers list.  http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=1313&step=2&showfrac=yes&top_cat=1354

Ah, I see. 

It was hard to find, but I just ordered some W1, thank you!

I think I'm going to stop using CruForge to achieve hamons - every 1095 I've deferentially hardened has had twice the presence.  

First time using G10 - what a great material to work. The design was specified by the customer, but he gave me the artistic freedom of choosing copper as the pin and liner material. 

It's off to Alamo Custom Leather for a sheath.

I had a hard time forging the ring - my only tools at hand were an anvil, two tongs, and two hammers. Ed Rottinger suggested the best things to do in such situations is to remove material / drill out the rings after forging; I agree. Next time....

Comments and critique welcome,

Theo

My buddy had convinced himself he wanted to be a diamond, this thread has changed his mind.

My equipment was limited, so I folded by grinding the surface clean and cutting almost all the way through then folding over. I think you're right about the heat... I had never seen this before and wanted help confirming what it was. 

I am certain I can get that forge to full welding heat; part of the issue may be that the forge is too long (used for HT mostly), I should move my fire bricks around and make a square-er. 

Darren, you use a single burner, right? What's your setup like?

I do 99% of my forgewelding at the two or three burner in the city where the powerhammer is... which is also where I forgot my thermometer. I was curious to see if my single burner that I use for heat treating and typical forging would hit welding temps. I boraxed as usual, folded my layers, must have been too low heat. Oh wells, thank goodness for the other forges.