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Posts posted by TheoRockNazz
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Stupendous start! If you have an excess of RR spikes, try doing some neat stuff with the handles, like twists or filework - you'll gain a better understanding of how steel moves under the hammer, grinder and file.
Let's see more! -
They are meant for life
Amen brother, nothing is better than knowing a knife you made is being put to use, and doing its job well. -
I like the integral guard, I hope that you continue the handle material into it, or side it with brass - entirely a personal preference though.
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I'm right there with ya when it comes to that rustic, hand forged look. If it's differentially hardened, why not do a acid bath to show the line?
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I love the knife, cocobolo is my favorite hardwood. What temperature can you hot forge brass at?
Jayson, The Complete Bladesmith: Forging Your Way To Perfection by Jim Hrisoulas has a wonderful chapter on sheath making. It's also just a fantastic book to own. -
Looks like a nice, solid piece - kinda hard to tell with such small pictures.
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Never hurts to save a little bit of sawdust so you can sprinkle it on after filling the gap with epoxy or wood glue, that way you can give it a light sanding and no one will ever know ;D
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Thanks for sharing those videos, epic and inspiring. Now I've got the urge to go forge... argh! :D
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Fantastic filework, I'm a huge fan. Looks like the bevel is pretty steep, but that might be the images.
What were you thinking for your first damascus piece? -
Lookin' good. I would fill in that small gap between the guard and handle with a wee bit of epoxy. Can't wait to see more.
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That'll work so long as you epoxy the gaps afterwards. Do a test, I'm curious what DIY mosaic pins look like :D
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Very nice. A simple pattern mosaic pin would really make it for me.
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Fantastic first forge! Nothing says something is hand made like leaving it a little roughed-up; I sure like it.
In the future be weary of where the pointer finger will sit - looks like it'd be awfully easy to slide forward and cut yourself.
Can't wait to see your next blade! -
Hello again!
I've spent the last week at Shelley Thomas' forge at the Kew Bridge Steam Museum, and recently made two knives that emulate her style to a degree. She is a asymmetrical and organic furniture and jewelry maker who's signature is the brazed ball bearing.
http://www.shelleythomas.co.uk/
Here I have two knives that incorporate my own technique with her unique form. I would love to know what you guys think!"Pirate" knife with W2 blade, brazed ball bearing & forged mild steel guard and pommel with bamboo handle and fileworked spine.
15n20 and 1065 utility knife. Brazed ball bearings in Shelley Thomas' style, with the heat treatment occurring after etching so the oxidization colors remain.
Shelley holding the work that she inspired. She is keeping the right (utility) knife. -
A great start. BM's right on, practice hammering a lot more on mild steel, and when you're happy with where you are, try tool steels. Old files, jackhammer bits, plow sheers - all stuff you can find at a junk yard and will be pretty cheap or free. Try McCreight's book, it's perfect for you (how I started!)
http://www.amazon.com/Custom-Knifemaking-Tim-McCreight/dp/0811721752/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1341864876&sr=8-4&keywords=10+knife+projects
Best of luck buddy, I'd love to see your future work. -
Nice, clean shape, I look forward to seeing them finished.
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Mmm, too true Don.
And good point Thomas, it's been comfortable so far but after holding it for a while it may be tough. -
Hello all,
Recently I took a class with Owen Bush on forging the pattern welded seax, and I wanted to share the blade I made under his supervision, as well as two kitchen knives I made afterwards using the techniques and skills I obtained. Although Mr. Bush would say that the larger blade is not a full seax, it's certainly a mutt of seax and American subhilt fighter. Apologies for the crude pictures.
The short sword is patternwelded 1080 and 15n20 composed of three billots, the center one with a staggered twist, the outer two of random pattern. The blade is 15 inches long, 8mm thick (no distal taper), and 3.8cm wide. Handle is ~5.5" with brass fittings and purpleheart hardwood. There is a light vine pattern filworked along the base of the spine.
The first kitchen knife is 15n20 and mild steel in a random pattern. The blade is 6.5", 6mm wide at base with progressive distal taper, and 3.3cm at the widest. The fittings are copper and brass with a purpleheart spacer, ebony handle, and inlaid canary design in twisted copper and German silver wire (the logo of the studio that commissioned the knife).
The second kitchen knife is also 15n20 and mild steel in a random pattern, but with fewer layers. The blade is 5.75", 6mm wide at base with progressive distal taper, and 3.4cm at the widest. Copper and brass fittings, antler spacer, and zebrawood handle. There is a vine pattern fileworked along the entire length of the spine.
All three blades went through the same heat treating process - normalization, hardening in oil, dark straw tempering. All handle work was done by hand tool (except for drilling), and the wood finished with multiple applications of linseed oil.
I've been trying to develop my own style; leaving a bit of the blade rough (just the kitchen knives), filework (excluding the one kitchen knife - they requested so), and the shape of the handle.
I would greatly appreciate any input!
Theo Rock Nazz
TheoRockNazz.com
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Haha, just be careful with cable; some are covered in toxic materials, and others may have fiber or plastic cores that can get smokey and cause the welds to fail.
I rather like that fingerold with ricasso, a nice flow. -
Lookin' good, I like the little bit of scale left on.
Through tang or partial? How did you quench? -
Very nice. Distal taper?
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For the small folder it was a full motor oil quench, and the large broken back got just the edge. I've heard of people doing some crazy sub-zero stuff with stainless, but considering I'm just in a backyard and a small woodworking shop, things are limited.
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Howdy guys,
This is my first post on I Forge Iron, so I thought I would share my most recent works. All the knives are hand forged, have some sort of filework, and are double tempered.
A large dagger from O1 roundstock with brass guard and pommel, bamboo handle wrapped in necklace wire.
O1 fighting knife, differentially hardened with brass guard, purpleheart scales, and mosaic pin. It's got a nasty little spike on the end too.
440C friction folder with zebrawood scales, brass fittings, and mosaic pin.
Broken back seax of 440C with brass fittings, ebony scales, and mosaic pin. It was made for a large man, and has the heft of a hatchet.
Reforged file with blacksmith's handle. This piece actually sold to MastersmithS.
Please let me know yall think,
Theo
Gentleman's Belt Knife
in Knife Making
Posted
Nice utility knife, did you forge the damascus yourself?