Grafvitnir

Hi Someone gave me two cross pein hammers (3 and 4lbs) but they have fiberglass and jacketed fiberglass handles which are very uncomfortable to use. I would like to change them to wood but don't know the best way to do that. Has anyone done that? Thank you very much Rub

In the catalog Gerald Boggs posted a few days ago there are some strange bellows I've never seen before but that reminded me the oriental box bellows just in a vertical position. Have anyone seen a real one? I guess they too had the problem Frosty wrote about of the explosions because they mentioned the word "inexplosibles" Rub

I knew I had seen it here somewhere. http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f85/heating-small-parts-coal-forge-2223/ Rub

Hi! Maybe a small japanese, and in this case, charcoal forge: ‰zŒ

Hi, On the July 1992 issue of "The Clinker Breaker" of the Florida Artist Blacksmith Association you can find instructions(by Robb Gunter) on how to forge the tools and how to handle it with rods. (You can download it from their site) Here is the link: http://www.blacksmithing.org/CB-Archive/1992/1992-07-cb.pdf Hope it helps Rub

Hi! I bought it sometime ago. I guess it depends on what you wanted to learn. I think its very good and liked it a lot. And yes, it is really unplugged, he even lights the fire without matches. (he uses flint and a file) He teaches you how to make charcoal, the Lively washtub forge, how to choose the steel from a junk pile, making a bladesmithing anvil, basic forging, basic heat treating... up to finishing it without power tools. I think you will like it Hope it helps Rub

Thanks a lot John B. I really solves the problem. At least I now know I am not crazy. (or at least not that much) It really was more complex than the other type of bellows, 3 chambers, hidden air inlets, almost like a puzzle or riddle I hope you do make a BP; I know there are people here who would like to see it at least for its design if not for trying to make one. Thank you very much Rub

Ok, this is what I meant when I said there seemed to be two types of round bellows. The simple model, that seems to be used in portable forges, the one in Hasluck's book, Inversin's, the one of New Zealand, etc. Then the other type, the one I have no idea how it is made, and of which I found this (wasteful) picture of them upside down and used for lamps!!! Being completely stretched you can see what I meant, i.e. it seems to have 3 chambers, as I tried to "doodle" at the beginning of the thread. Thanks again. Rub

The close-up of the boss clarified things better for me also I got to see the pinched corners better. Could you post a close up of the jaws? Sorry to ask but I'll like to see that part also; I can't see if it is flat or has a groove in it or something(because of the groove in the Habermann tongs). Sorry for asking so many things. Thanks again Brian, for everything.

Thank you very much Holzkohle!! I looked for it in google and found this link to download it: Smiths' Work by Paul N. Hasluck, 1904 - wkFineTools.com (Legal download because of copyright it seems) (It's a USA link) I still will try to get it from Lindsay books if they still carry it (I prefer real books). The .pdf showed it has all the instructions for both the forge and the bellows. Thanks a lot again Rub

"I do not heat treat them. they hold perfectly." But you do take care not to quench them while hot? Coil springs as in car coil springs? You pinch the corners(just in front of the boss and the next angle) for resistance? In your DVD it seems you cut the jaws like a "Y" but this one looks like the Habermann's, just flat. I was just examining all the details, just gaping at them... what finish you used? (hammer and tongs both look a beautiful gray color) I just love them Thanks again Rub

Thank you so much!!! I really wanted to see the steps for making that type of tongs. I guess you use spring steel to make them... less bendable ( I couldn't find the word there) to resist the weight of the hammer head and you working on it, being the tongs so light(carbon content). You think mild steel would bend? You draw the reins by hand? Sorry for asking so many things. Thanks again. I couldn't find a worship icon so I could only use this Rub

I think its something like this: Bucket rat trap - Appropriate technology: Journey to Forever Rub

You're welcome Paul. I'm going to keep looking for a diagram or info on how to make one. If you find out please contact me to share info Thank you Rub

Hi Paul and JMercier. First for JMercier here: The Celtic Knot - Building A Bellows Fed Portable Forge is a portable forge for Demos and the bellows does not look that big but he does talk about the proportion 1/3 to 2/3. Now, here: http://cd3wd.com/cd3wd_40/JF/JF_OTHER/SMALL/04-084_blacksmiths_bellows.pdf is the Inversin Bellows for the third world made with inner tubes but you could change that to leather or Naugahyde or whatever. Here is a single action bellows and a home made blower for a 55 gal forge (and it kind of looks like the picture you attached Paul): http://cd3wd.com/cd3wd_40/JF/JF_VE/SMALL/04-110.pdf Paul, I was looking for info on this kind of bellows a few weeks ago! Here is the link to my question: http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f11/another-bellows-question-11319/ maybe you have more info on it. I included a picture of one homemade in New Zealand. It seems they are used in the UK but nobody seemed to had a diagram Hope it helps Rub

I hope no one will do this, I post it because it was fun to read but don't think, as the author does, it will be fun to watch. (And I don't think it really works) From a book of the year 1734, it is old spanish where the "f" and "s" where used as the same. Para juntar ^ y matar muchos Ratones en un barrio con facilidad. "To get together and kill a lot of mice in a neighborhood easily". Procura tener tres , 6 quatro Ratones vivos, ponlos en una holla con una tapadera agugerada : efta holla pon

John B, thank you very much for the links and your answer. That was what I wanted to know, if it was the same I thought Now I have remorse for my harsh comment on the mexican pseudoblacksmiths I have found. The thing is here in M

Here I go again I hope I'm not making this a Byzantine discussion (to have a discussion about a futile subject with no expected outcome.) because I don't want to be seen as someone that deserves a thread about him and his questions. From the beginning of this, for me, and it seems that for John B also, a 1 inch fuller was like in the first figure of my mspaint drawing attached; i.e., Y=1" or 1 inch diameter or 1/2 inch radius. If I need one and I don't have it I take a 1 inch round and use it as a fuller. It is the same for Brian only that for him it is easier to make them with less "Y" but thinking of them as the full diameter. (more like in the second or middle figure) I just wanted to know if every one thinks the same because I have never seen a real fuller, only pictures of them in books and internet so I have never been able to measure one to see if a 1" fuller has a 1" Y. So if a project calls for a 1" fuller I want to know what should I make. That's all. I know if I ask around here, if anyone knows anything about blacksmithing, the answer will something like "a big fuller" or "a medium fuller" (in spanish "un deg

Brian's hammer fuller would then be a 3/4 inch radius or a 1-1/2 inch diameter fuller but in a 1-1/8 body or "Y". So how is that called? A 3/4" a 1-1/2" or a 1-1/8" fuller? lol. I was trying to explain the difference between diameter and radius at the beginning of the thread but I think I was not clear enough Sorry for the mess I'm creating and thank you all for your answers. Rub

Hi Brian, by the way, your DVD is excellent I finally understood many things about hammer making. No I don't think or even know if you are right or wrong. I just don't know what a 1/2 inch or whatever size fuller, is. I think it might be both, sometimes the radius and sometimes the "Y" or diameter size. I just don't know... That is why I'm asking. Thank you again Rub

OK, the thing went like this. If you ever read the article on making Poz tongs of the Alabama Forge Council it said to fuller a 1/2 inch diameter 1/4 deep and in the "Best of the Forge" Vol. I, it said you used a 1/2 inch fuller for this. Ok, then it is "Y" = 1/2 inch what matters when you refer to a fuller. But then in the "Slitter Geometry" thread Brian Brazeal says: "The top and bottom fullers have a 1-1/2" radius and are about 1-1/8" wide." So then it is the radius and not "Y"? It is a 1-1/8 inch fuller with a 1-1/2 inch radius? :confused: Sorry for all this but I just want to know what is in your minds when you say "I used a 1/2 inch fuller" or whatever Thanks again. Rub

My question is, what is a 1/2 inch fuller? One in which (look picture included from Stokes' book) Y = 1/2 inch and it does not matter what radius it has; or is it one in which radius is 1/2 inch but it does not matter the Y size as in the second picture included (3 Y sizes but same radius). Thanks again Rub

I hope this is not a dumb question but I want to get it right. Thanks to HWooldridge's excellent explanation on hammer dressing somewhere else in the Forum I understand what a radius on a hammer face, pein and sides mean, but, is it the same for fullers? I mean, you can have a 1/2 inch radius on a 1/4 inch, on a 1/2 or a 1 inch piece of iron and they are all a 1/2 inch fullers? If I use a 1/2 inch round bar as a fuller it is really a 1/4 inch fuller? To have a 1/2 inch fuller I should use a 1 inch round bar for a fuller? I just want to be sure what does it mean to have a 1/2 inch fuller in term of radius. Thanks all Rub

Thank you for your answers. First of all, I think they are used in the UK, at least every picture I found was of one located there except the homemade one that was in a newsletter (ABANZ) in New Zealand, but then again, English influence It's not that I want to build one, both the japanese box bellows or the first type of bellows I draw or Inversin

Hi. This is my first thread and believe me, I've searched everywhere for an answer before asking this. I know some of you have this type of bellows. What are they called? Drum bellows usually refers to the African pot bellows, so I usually call them round bellows. Does any one have a diagram or plans for how are they made? I've found that it seems to be 2 types of them. I attached some pictures and my own mspaint drawings to try to explain what I think and make myself clear. The first type has the same mechanism as the common teardrop shaped bellows. The lower chambers both fills the upper one and blows air to the forge and when it goes down it fills again and the upper one blows air to the fire. The homemade one in the Selby's picture and the Inversin inner tube bellows, my first drawing and the portable forge seems to use this system. The other one is the one I can't figure out. In the 2 pictures of the same bellows one in up and the other in down position it seems that the center part is the one moving; a tube goes from the lower chamber to the top and I think that is the chamber where air goes out as in my second drawing I tried to represent but, where is the air inlet for the upper working chamber? Does anyone have a real diagram? I know I don