Ten Hammers

" but the wonder bra ?? only Wonderful to look at, Not to wear! as all things - subjectively wonderful :) "

Yes M'am, since I don't wear one I'll rely on the experienced that do. :D

Perhaps I have missed something. Please correct me if I have.

Anvil height and tooling table height alone make a major part of any issues I may have with sore elbows or fatigue. The wrong hammer yes can be a part of the problem. I prefer hammers with longer thinner springy handles. I have used several styles of heads on hammers and prefer straight piens simply because when you draw over the horn and loop, the natural flop of the head results in the straight pien wanting to assist in moving the loop while keeping the same posture. The same can be said on the far side of the anvil. The near corner of the face of the hammer is used in the same technique but a pien helps me to more aggressively move stock. My preference. A cross pien of course gets used as well (like dishing a leaf on the step and then curling it a bit on the far side of the horn where the step meets it).

Frank pretty much covered my opinions on ergonomics. He makes an excellent statement about hammers when he does a demo. His experience re-affirms my thoughts and experience (meaning that what I have learned is right for me). Of course continuing education is the key and continued work gains us experience.

Dixie, she is on the list.

Wonder hammers, wonder bras, wonder bread, it's all good.

The small 4 bolt rotors make a great base for stock stands. Light enough to pick up one handed.

I notice a few tapered large drums ( like from a duece and a half or the like). Those make good cones to true larger rings. You also have access to 4,5,6 and more hole hubs. This works well for geometry layouts in making stand tooling for weld up or for arms on a piece that has multi pieces. Yes scrapyards make you sad to see stuff headed out (like the lathe).

GADZOOKS !!!!!!

" it was mainly there to check for a pulse."

Perhaps this tells you something. The school indeed must know if their applicants have the sense to answer basic knowledge questions. Welding is more than just mating metal. The " I care " factor must come into play. Peoples lives depend on welding (and I am not speaking of your livelihood in the trade after training ). Wasting time training people that don't care in the first place would be a problem. Aptitude. Ethic.

Glad you got the test over and hope you do well in the course. Here we might say " break a leg ". Learning to live in the puddle can be a bit frustrating but so can learning the right forging temperature for different materials in different environments. Carry on my friend.

What Jeremy said.

Reading a tape measure will I think be one of the math needs along with adding and subtracting fractions (or metrics/conversions). I'm guessing they want to know what you know already.

What Thomas Dean said.

Joint prep, tack, root, grind, cover pass, grind, cap pass. Perhaps grind backside of the root and same game on that side. Pass a bend test then 100% exray. Perhaps mild and stainless. Hard to say what their needs are.

What John said.

Print reading and math in your head perhaps.

Good Luck.

" Micheal Angelo once said David was in there i just brought him out . i forge and bring out what i think is ok i dont have name tags to put on. "

Maybe what Thomas is saying would be compared to having 2 handkerchiefs. One in the top pocket of the jacket, one in the back pants pocket. One for showin, one for blowin. I tend to go more towards the utility but I do indeed like your work (as it was made for a customer of yours, it suits the need).

Sometimes I just say that an item was in my head, I just turned it loose.

Beth, if I were to describe your gate in one word it would be " tasteful ". The three corkscrews balance it but the handlebar mustache is the trick ! Building around the centerpiece flower, your work shines.

Consider this. Free is good. When you forge over the horn, you are forging on wrought iron (same wrought that is in the body of the anvil). I would just use the anvil as acquired. Many of the OLD anvils had no top plate ( not meaning Hay Budden). The mass of the body of this anvil will stand a good amount of forging over the waist. I might take a sharp file and lightly drawfile the place where it is obvious that someone has left a few marks on it. Might dress a radius on the far edge on the front corner, then use it ! Hardy tools will still fit the hole. Your skill in hammer control will make the difference in any future molestations of the wrought face. The way I see it, you have an extended cutting table face but still have the step. Absolutely usable anvil. YES there will be issues with not having a full flat surface. Good luck. You'll find another and use them both.

If you wish to repair ( or have it repaired ) there are links posted.

Very nice work Tim, thanks. Tough joint to make, never mind the file work !

Moving forward is good. Nice to see you again.

Good find Timothy. Would love have it, idiot marks and all. Weight ?

Former employer had a couple tumblers. Thousands of parts ran through them (eh, loud ? ). This process takes time. Lot of time. Light er up and forget about it for at least an hour.

My own shop does a fair bit of production work. Depending on the need, care in forging (unless gas which is another case in itself) and good brush takes care of most issues. I have small tumbler for light work (mostly polishing rather than de-scale). Hot vinegar will indeed remove forge scale but it takes a bit of time as well. Care in fire control and placement of forgings IN the fire will make a difference. Butcher brush along with a standard brush will do most of the time.

Yes, large orders can be done in tumblers. Depends on your own needs, floor space and what YOU need. I would not discourage building one or accessing an old mixer (I have one).

Listening to your Dad is good advice.

The United States Navy has what I think would be an outstanding program to train you in welding (actually more than one program). This said, you should talk to your Dad yes. Machine tech training and as mentioned electronics training to repair machines are both outstanding. You appear to have your head on your shoulders and this is good. We all were young (believe it or not) once. You have the world at your fingertips. I salute your seeking knowledge here. Good luck.

i have forged for years with cowboy and royal oak. Rendezvous choice for me. You can buy Stremph brand in Missouri (might be spelt wrong). It is outstanding stuff too. I have yet to see charcoal that DIDN'T have fleas from the fire.

I don't spend much time in this section either. Mate, you have indeed set new standards. I forge hawks to throw (which is fine). Your work is indeed exceptional. Thank you.

May the road rise to meet you and your shop be warm in the winter. Good luck my friend.

Go buy a junk crosspien or ballpien. Find a hammer in a box from a sale that already has a face that is soft. Handle the tool and use it to train. The junk hammer will be good later for striking handled tools. As Brian says, properly dressed face will make a difference as well. Holler me up on PM. I don't live too far from you and may have a hammer to fit your needs.

Timothy, outstanding analogy.

Stevieboy, indeed glad you didn't take a direct hit. Very glad. 'Nadoes is scary stuff. We roll the dice every year. No power stinks yes but glad no loss of life or limb on your part.

The problem with that is, the eye ain't tapered and have no real way to hold it in other than with a shouldered handle (like a maul handle). I agree, 1/4 would work. Wrought froes split a lot of stuff over the centuries simply because they had the right wedge angle.

Character marks look nice. Good job.

Got a friend over on the river that collects old outboards. Would make a good ja-koozi. Have seen pictures of this type of setup. One of my daughters has a stock tank in the yard for the kids. Macbruce, you got the right idea.

Another solution. I have I think 6 of these pouches and need to have another one or 2 made. Local carriage builders do upholstery work. They do very nice job on these pouches for me among other things.

Gives me a place to stow several sets of sizes and varieties, some seldom used but indeed nice to have when you need them.

Yes ALL of these files were in a box from a sale. Poor conditon. They now are sharp and ready to use (and have been used). I think I started with 45 or more.