ChrisB

awesome find!

Looks great m brothers!

2 psi - has to be blown

I did exactly what Peyton is suggesting. Arrange to have a EuroAnvil at the VA meeting. Shipping is very expensive.

You'll need to email the euroanvil guy. I never got a hold of him on the phone but he answers his emails within a day.

Very nice. A general question...What does the advantages does castable have over ceramic blanket?

I'm just glad I bought a whole kaowool roll when I built this forge. I wasnt happy with the performance anyway so a little redesign may be in order.

It was a great idea. Set the gasser on the coal rivet forge for a nice safe fire proof stand. saved me a few bucks and life is good. Well it was until I wanted to move the propane bottle further away from the forge while setting up for the day and had just connected the bottle and forge. So I pull the forge off the "stand" and Plistex lining cracks and chunks are now falling off the Kaowool lining.

So I'm thinking I could pull the kaowool from the tube body and swap the inner 1" of wool for the outer 1" then recoat the "new interior". It looks like trying to patch or repair the mess would just be a exercise in aggravation.

Opinions on my repair plan?

How much was the shipping for the block?

"If it doesnt move force it. If it breaks it needed replacing anyway" - Unknown

"Every job we get done just creates two more" - Me 13yrs old working on the family farm.

The one I had borrowed was a HF special. By the second abrasive blade the bearings were going south in the machine. It had no guts either, cutting steel studs was about all it could do.

If your going the HF route make sure you have a store near you and buy it in person with the warranty. You'll be taking it back for a replacement.

I just got the Milwaukee Dry cut saw. It cut thru 4"x 1/2 plate in less than 20 seconds. 1" bar of 1045 even less. I was cutting some 1" x 3/16 flat bar this morning. I swear the saw laughed at me. Its a heavy duty machine. The carry handle couldn't be placed in a better spot its very easy to carry.

The blade did come with a warning about what you could and should not cut.

You can sharpen the blades. HF has a saw blade sharpener setup for $69. A guy on the Hobart weldtalk forum did a nice write up on sharpening the blade. If I end up having to get that tool to sharpen the blade so be it then. I have several dull wood chop saw blades to practice on plus I usually chew thru a "skil" saw blade when I go to ASP every year. The money I can save on wood cutting blades alone pays for the HF tool. Not to mention it pays for itself with on dry cut blade sharpening.

I beat myself up for a few weeks over the subject. And went with the dry cut over abrasive or band saw. I'm glad I bought the dry cut. I had a borrowed abrasive for a while. Very noisy and messy and a fire hazard from the sparks. band saws in the same price range are made in China and need tuning out of the box. I don't have time to fiddle fart with a new tool to make it work right.

You can "gang" two 20's together to stop the icing problem. I was given a 100lb tank but it was the wrong valve after having to man handle it a few times I am thinking those 40lb tanks at TSC are looking really nice.

I'm sure there is a load of interest. Post the pix!

I got one of the Bob Haverstock videos about a week ago. It arrived in two days! That UMBA video deal is a good one!

The 110v Lincolns are made in Italy. The Hobart and Millers are made in the US. I bought a hobart about 4 mos ago and had a setup question within 30 seconds of me dialing their number I was speaking to real person and had my answer 30 seconds after that.

Hobart has an excellent forum that is watched by the factory. You can find it on the front page of the hobart website.

Support after the purchase is a big thing to consider. Stop in the local welding shop and figure whose repair parts they stock. I'm in Miller/Hobart land here buying a Lincoln would mean a 3hr round trip if something broke vs. 5 miles to the local weld shop that stocks Miller and Hobart common failure parts.

Esab makes a nice unit too. They are assembled in South Carolina. I dont know if they make a 110 unit.

I would think hard about getting your shop wired for 220v.

I took a 16ft 2x12 and cut it into 18" pieces then glued/nailed them together offsetting them by 2". I've seen pics of it posted around here.

It's a bit low for me so I'm thinking of building a 4" sand box to set it on then I can vary the height of the anvil.

great another project...

Too late flypress is on the shop and has done some very interesting things.

Go buy a ASO and some Mums and Panseys and a couple of bags of mulch. Ask to swap them out.

I meet one of those collectors once. He had a real nice place with anvils everywhere. I realized then that searching for an affordable used anvil was a waste of time when there are "collectors" willing to drop serious coin to get "old tools".

Try emailing them.

Some nice looking "kit" you have there.

Was the wood seasoned?

Around here its all by word of mouth. I'm not a local so I'm mostly out of luck. Plus they are smart enough to check ebay before telling you how much they want. Last item I looked at was a destroyed anvil and the sweet little ole lady wanted $6 lb and told me that is was 150lbs. Cause she couldnt sell it for any less because of the memories attached to the anvil. Everybody has their price I suppose...

Please be very careful in cutting open used barrels. I personally know a man that blew himself up cutting open a 55 gal motor oil drum with a plasma cutter. He survived but lost body parts.

That show got me interested. Actually it revived my childhood interest.