Ridgewayforge

Truth! I can buy an "antique I-beam Sawmakers anvil" for only 3 or 4 USD$/lbs. There are deals all over the place! 

First thing, that fire has no depth to it, which may be why you think its cold. You ought to pile a few bricks around the hole do get a deeper fire that will be more efficient. Look at the sticky at the top of the 'solid fuel forge' section, about forges and fires, and then you can see that its not JUST a table with a hole in it, but usually there is a pit or pot of some sorts holding the fire in. 

Though it would be more work, you could nix the swans neck, leaving the steer's head pointing straight up and put a small ring through the nose- might make for a neat showpiece, anyways. 

Nothing wrong with the anvil. Its a tool, and it can hold more tools (hardy hole). Make a block with clean, rounded corners and use that in place of the jagged bit you highlighted. 

That PW is in fine condition. I work regularly on a 75lb anvil with edges like your PW; don't think that by mashing hot steel against the face you will somehow damagae it- that PW probably saw much heavier stock than you will be working for a while, so treat her nice and she'll treat you nice. And, with nearly all anvils, NO grinding or welding! Just pure and simple forging! 

In way of any comment, you might see how it feels both with the offset to the right and to the left. I find that I flip my coal rake over in my hand to rake the coal up on the left and the right side of my forge; yours looks a little hard for that operation. 

So its essentially the same as the square horn on a german anvil, only this is smaller and a protrusion from the side? 

Also, did they steel the tops of these? 

Certainly will, Tyrolea is the merging of the two best worlds: Austrian culture and Italian culture! 

I think that I've decided to store them. All these points are great, but there are a few factors that pushed me to store rather than sell. 

The price factor is important to me, and I know that I won't be able to get the same tools for the same price I paid initially. The most important factor for me is time to re-equip. when I come home after a few years' hiatus, I don't want to have to wait for those sweet deals to come along. As of now, my tools have been patiently waited for. I started with a railroad tie plate, then a rail, then finally to my current small anvil. That took about 4 years to finally afford and find a cheaper anvil. True, its not as valuable as a top of the line pristine anvil, but it took a while to find a good price. 

That being said, I know that when I returned, I will want to start getting into the craft again immediately, which, if I sold my tools, would either mean going back to rock and smaller rock on a stick forging, or alternatively buying everything for the price that convenience buys. 

If its legally abandoned as JHCC says, then why cut it? Far more profitable to dig it out and use the piece whole. Get a buddy or two, maybe a six pack of a resfreshing beverage to entice some help, and dig it, lift it out and carry it home! 

Heat some oil to 150 F and dunk your metal in? That might do it. 

60,000,000 Squtles. 

It very much depends on place, how many there are locally, going rate, condition, how hot the market is, etc. 100lb british anvil in Frederick Maryland will be listed at 3-400 USD$, but I bought my 75lber for $2/lb from Baltimore. 

Like I say, context is key. 

I'm studying for a masters in Theology. 

I think I will store them, in that case. I really didn't want to part with my gear and tackle, but I wasn't sure what would have served me best. Its a good little kit, especially the anvil-pre-pritchell hole english no name. Good big sweet spot; little bit of face worn down on the far side horn left, but otherwise in pretty good condition. 

As to keeping it fresh while stored, what is the advice -  Oiled? Gently rusted? A good thin coat of paint to keep it fresh for 5 or 6 years? 

I named my hobby shop after the street where I grew up. Ridgeway Forge. It sounded nice to me, so I chose it. 

Hi all, 

For the next 5 or 6 years I will be living in Rome, inside the city for further schooling; I have a small shop, just two leg vices, a 75lb anvil, champion 400 forge blower & firepot and some other miscellaneous tools which I cannot take with me. My parents have generously offered to store these things for me until I return, but I wanted some opinions as to what I should do. 

My options, as I see it, are to keep the things in storage in their garage for the time that I will be living in italy, or I could sell the pieces and save the money, adding to it little by little so that when I come back I can re-outfit my shop. Which would you do? 

Regards,

Ridgewayforge 

Ah, I think I understand the principles, now. Although, is it due to the switching of ladles, or can a single ladle produce both high carbon and low carbon steel? I suppose I am asking more about the dissemination of carbon within a certain melt. For example, if half the metal is places in the ladle first, and this all beinglow carbon, and then high corbon is placed into it on top before being melted, do the different carbon steels remain separate like oil and water, or do they mix together to form a homogenous molten soup? 

3 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said:

File hard as quenched; what did you draw it to when tempering?  (the thing about rebar is that the lower grades have great variability and the higher grades are harder to source as they are used for bridges, skyscrapers, nuclear power plants, etc.)

Does Rebar differ in composition even within the same stick? 

I suppose I ask, because if they are from a single pour, shouldn't the composition be the same for the length of a bar? or is it some factor I am not thinking of? Perhaps we ought to have a dedicated sticky talking about rebar use, composition and use in blacksmithing? 

Nah, spring steel isn't necessary for this application. All you need is something that will tension a little bit when its closed so that it opens with ease. 

That looks like the older brother of my 75lb anvil; If you're in the DC/MD/VA area, PM me, if you're looking to sell... 

Regards, 

RF

If the wind is at a certain direction, my fire is hard to light. Same if it is rainy, humid or if a pressure system is moving in, it seems. 

I just go for a different starting method; mostly I add some dry pine lumber bits and more shavings and newspaper.

I imagine that the slotted ones break the surface tension on the hot, molten clinker. Thats just a wild guess, though. 

6 hours ago, Harlow said:

Would a992 steel make a good Anvil? I was looking at a piece of I-Beam that is 710lbs. The measurements are:  Face is 5" thick and the web is 3" thick.

Thank you for any information you have.....

 

If the web is 3" across and the face is already 5" thick, then you could cut the flanges off, and have5 anvils of differen sizes; look at Brian Brazeal  anvils; they are used with the narrow end up and have diferent radii ground into the top face to use as a fuller. If its 710 lbs and a good shape, go for it. if you want more input, post a picture so we can see what you're talking about, Harlow. 

I know the ad you're talking about, that will work fine for an anvil, but its a little pricey including shipping; although, at 710lbs, it might be a keeper. 

Steaks do best if they are heated to critical and then quenched in a bath of A1- draw the temper of the middle to a red, and the outside to a dark brown and it should be forged perfectly. 

On the flat bar, did you draw out the reins by hand or with a powerhammer? 

Forge on it. Iron sharpens iron, rignt? So hammer some glowing steel on the face 'till she shines up and evens out, 

Wow, that is truly a serendipitous find!