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I Forge Iron

Ridgewayforge

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Everything posted by Ridgewayforge

  1. Srwimmer, no problem! I got that book as a gift- its really fascinating to me. That is a nice set up! Hammer away!
  2. If this is a rant, may I add Antique stores to the rant. >.< Why is it collectable? It should be merely usable! (In an antique store, I was quoted $200 for a small leg vice. Saw one twice as large for $80 at a gun show.)
  3. That looks a lot like the small farming forges mentioned in an old textbook, "Farm Blacksmithing" by John F. Friese. Great score!
  4. I suppose this all depends though on how we veiw glowing red. I mean on the upper end, like a mostly ripe tomato. But you are right, my mistake.
  5. I've only used fresh wood and charcoal in my forge, which is a lot like the 55 design. It does take an hour or more to get the fire going well, this is normal. Perhaps switch to hardwoods and use a mixture of fresh wood and charcoal to get the fire hot enough. Glowing red is hot enough, but orange I've found works better for me. To get that you might need to either use better seasoned hardwood, construct your fire a bit differently, use charcoal or increase airflow. I've always put a log on top of my fire, supported by some fire bricks to make a chamber of sorts for the fire. It burns a lot hotter, I've found. ~RidgewayForge
  6. I'd follow the directions on the forge. It appears to say "clay forge before use"
  7. You're starting the right way! I like the set up, and those hooks look great! I'm glad to see someone did their homework before hammering out hot metal! Great analogy, too. You couldn't have said it any better! Great job!
  8. You know, I'll bet once your done you can sell it for scrap metal and make over $20. Go for it!
  9. I do have to agree with you. Before I even began to hit hot metal, I read. And read. And read. I feel like I left no stone unturned on the internet, (although there are some other books I should still read). Then, I tried. And failed. Right now, I've gotten to the point where I am able to make some things, but I am no expert. I'm still a Newbie. I haven't been hitting metal for even a year. You post makes perfect sense. Try, fail, try again and THEN ask the questions.
  10. I also recommend just looking at various pictures of tongs on the internet. It really helps with getting an idea of what to make. Sketching out the designs are also good practice, with planning each heat's work.
  11. Zeberdy, You're right in assessing that the hook was worked a lot. I lost it in the fire when I originally made it ( at that time it was a drive hook). Then I decided on this plan. By the time I was done with it it was a mess! But, I ended up giving to the man who gave me 60 pounds of coal. Although I know I could always reforge the fork and straighten out and make even the tines, but I'm keeping that piece as a memento to look back on. I'll keep doing more and more, and hopefully I'll get better at it!
  12. That looks great! Nice job! I find the only downside to blacksmithing is looking at all the "china" made tools I always think "I could make that better!"
  13. I learned first by reading. There are a lot of good books and websites out there. That is a good resource for tongs and other tools. Definately get and read all the books you can. But more important than reading is doing. I like to say I used to know how to blacksmith in theory, but now I know how to do it in practice.
  14. For hammers I would either get some tool steel or weld up some pieces of rebar with a carbon steel plate welded on the front. In hammers the hardness does matter, so it really needs a carbon steel or tool steel face. Definately post pictures of your tongs once you've made them!
  15. Well, as to the thickness, it depends on your work. If you'll be using them for some really heavy work (tool making and such) I'd go with at least 1/2 inch thickness. For some small work tongs, I see no reason why 5/16 inch or 1/4 inch shouldn't work. Carbon content doesn't matter a whole lot in tongs, as long as they don't get very brittle when quenching.
  16. My hammers aren't named..... Yet. Although A few years ago I ran across someone with an anvil named Amy. Go figure.
  17. I think nails will do fine. You can bend some long nails over the feet to secure it, or just leave them straight if you want to move the anvil easily. Happy hammering!
  18. That is a mighty fine looking set up! That log would be a good one to put the anvil on! This is definately a good one!
  19. Rebar will be fine for tongs. In fact, once I get around to it I'll be making tongs out of rebar too. I've got a bunch laying around. Well, you may have to adjust the fire and make small changes, but I think it should work. It sounds like you've got a good forge! I had never worked with metal until I started smithing a about half a year ago. I use a campfire and railroad track anvil, it works for me to learn on. As to putting pictures up, you need to add them as an attachment on the post. If you want to put them on a reply, click the "more reply options" button right next to the "post" button at the bottom of the post. Then scroll down and it'll say "add attachments" You can upload them and then add them to the post. I hope that makes sense!
  20. Rebar is pretty much a mystery metal, but it works for good practice metal. There can be a considerable amount of fluctuation in the actual carbon content of the piece, but I say go for it as a start. You'll always be able to find a way to use it! A blacksmith is resourceful!
  21. There certainly are ways to date them, I'll let more experienced folks tackle that. The holes are for carrying the anvil.
  22. That should work fine, so long as the smoke can get out. I'd love to see a picture of how you got it all set up!
  23. The problem with a concrete plate as a roof is that it would choke the fire. The wood allows for smoke to filter around it while it burns air holes in it.
  24. I wouldn't advise a concrete plate, just go with the coal fire then. It'll still work very well. I am personally a big fan of using a coal/charcoal mixture. I find the heat output is better. That anvil sounds like a good one! It'll serve you well for years to come!
  25. Well, the stump (or even just a log or several) will definately make the fire hotter, but they also will help maintain the fire if you need to walk away for a moment or two. It really has helped me, I use basically the same set up, only mine is less fancy than yours. I use some bricks and a pair of cheap fireplace bellows. It really does make a difference having the log there. It prevents the fire from going out and it periodically drops new charcoal onto the hearth. As to the anvil, Definately go with the bigger one if it is a good anvil with a steel face that is mostly unmarked. I'm glad I can be of some help!
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