Tagg

Great, thanks!

Yeah, I would have done that to save work, but I do not have a chop-saw. aDoing the way you suggested would hve forced me to cut the beams perfectly square which was really difficult with my handsaw. So this was the best option for me.

Thank you!

Zachary

Hey Phil, a lot of the links you posted in this topic are broken. Could you fix them?

Thanks,
Zachary

Here's mine I just created for my RR track anvil.







Zachary

Thanks.

Zachary

I would suggest you don't use the Mapp gas (If you haven't already ordered it) just because you'll go through the canisters very fast if you're doing a lot of forging. propane would be the less expensive route in the long term.

Okay, thank you. And what is the end piece of the burner you have in the 12th picture? Is it the flare?

For the gas tube, I bought 5/16" OD brass (not copper) tubing. This is basically the same diameter of a MIG tip. drilled and tapped the tubing to accept the tip and used a compression fitting to connect it my ball shut-off valve. Instead of just drilling and tapping Tee for fitting I drilled and welded a slug of 9/16" OD X 5/16 ID X 1" heavy wall pipe so my gas tube can be slid in and out and I can also use the same tube in my forced air forge. I have a HF mini lathe which made the proccess easier but the same could be done with care in a drill press. The Tee in the picture is 1.25" reduced to 1" pipe as I thought I wasn't getting enough air when I bench tested, but I changed to a 1" Tee and and it seems to work fine.