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Well...

Got the forge up! Someone kindly gave me a few insulating fire bricks. Right now the flame is too rich (It's green, but you can't really see it from the pictures). I need to trim the MIG tip a bit. How much, exactly should I trim?







Zachary

I suggest you put a "wanted" ad in craiglist for an anvil / piece of RR track. I did that, and someone gave me a piece of RR track for free. He also gave me some HC wire rope and a piece of leaf spring to get my started in bladesmithing. Of course, I did say I was 16, and that probably helped a bit, but you never know who will shoot you an email. Make sure to tell people your situation like that fact that you just don't want to drop down $300 on an anvil and you still want to get started in the hobby.

Zachary

Is the flashback suppressor required?

Then again, the pitting might look really rustic after you're done. If you do decide to make the blade, polish it so it's relatively smooth and then put a patina on it or blue the steel. The pitting might look kind of neat.

Common knife steels include

leaf springs
nicolson files
safe edge horse rasps
any kind of saw blade (Bandsaw, circular saw, hacksaw, etc..)

BEFORE forging the knife, do a quench test on the material: Heat to critical, quench in oil. See if it breaks off in your vice when hitting it with a hammer (Wear saftey glasses!). If it bends, then it's either mild steel, or has to be quenched faster. If so, then you might want to try a water quench. If it still bends, you could go to a "super quench" of soap, salt, and water (I believe, could be wrong) and then check that way, but I would stick with easy quenching steels that are high carbon and quench in oil.

Zachary

I know this kind of defeats the purpose of an all-rebar knife, but the handle grip looks so cool that you may want to consider making another knife by forge welding a piece of high carbon round bar to the rebar and then forge the knife out. Not sure if it's more trouble than it's worth though.

Zachary

Congrats! Awesome. Can't wait to see your future knives.

What is that coil? A spring? It look a little like a truck or car leaf spring to me. It's that's what it is, then it's high carbon steel which means water quenching is a no-go. Quenching in oil just letting it cool should prevent fractures.

Zachary

Good. Didn't want to have to send the regulator back.

Thanks,
Zachary

Got the regulator and hose in a couple days ago. The regulator packaging says NOT to use it for gas grills and turkey fryers. Is this because gas grills have very low PSI burners? The regulator is 0-30PSI.

I finished that same burner design just last week and got the regulator and hose in a couple days ago. Now I have to get to work on my forge also. I'm building my forge out of firebrick. you?

Howdy from North Dallas!

Good point. Ha ha..

I live in Allen and I'm making knives too. Welcome!

90%?

If you do not feel like answering, Steve, don't feel like you have to answer them. Somone else will probably come along and answer their question anyway. I have to admit, this forum was a little hard to navigate when I first got on here. There are SO MANY different forum sections, it can get a little overwealming.

No worries! Forgive and forget.

Zachary

That sounds about right. Thanks!

How hot do the ouside of the insulating firebricks get? Warm or too hot to touch?

Thanks,
Zachary

I got the "T" tapped and got the copper tubing. Now I'm just waiting for my regulator and hose to come in. And I'm looking around for insulating firebrick. Almost done!

Why do you use .025 MIG tips? Frosty says .035.

What would you call the "Metal table" that you have the forge on? I'm trying to know what to say I need on freecycle, etc.


Thanks,
Zachary

Awesome. :)

Incredible! You must get a lot of work done on that anvil. What is the rebound on that anvil? 99% efficient or something? :o

Thanks for the tutorial! This really helps a lot.

That shop vac is way to strong. Use a hairdryer on low or medium and it should give you plenty of air flow.