Hayden H

Is this thing even an anvil? It looks like an old bridge anvil, but is it? And from what I can tell from the pictures its got 2 hardie holes

http://tulsa.craigslist.org/grd/2754106848.html

What'd be the maximum price you'd pay for the anvil from what you can see here? I probably won't bid if it doesn't weigh over 100 pounds

Huh, I figure I'll put it in the auction. Last lures to go went from $5.00 to $20.00 apeice. I'd rather get my money up front and not mess with ebay. Sell it as individual choice, then as a whole. Maximum money that way usually

What alls in the fishing collection? All kinds of stuff. I have 7 tackle boxes full of gear, from new unopened Rapala to antique hand carved. I just bought stuff whenever I found it cheap. I have a few rods I've never senn of. nor find any information on. Old cane poles (screw together late 50's) to a few bamboo fly rods, and a few Ocean City Reels (Fly and spin cast) both in original box with instructions and pouch

Haha. Got a few 16 and 18 inch files down to micro-pin files. From a 10 gram brass jewelers hammer to a 20 pound sledge.

I'm considering selling my fishing collection, but be sure it goes up before the anvil so I know if I can afford it. All its doing now is sitting in my room leaned in a corner. I'd rather have an anvil that isn't necessarily breakable or taking up massive amounts of floor space, than a collection of old poles

The last 2 anvils to go went for $250+. I bought a Fulton 75 with heavily built stand for $250. I love it, good rebound, long thick horn, and long heel. (I belive its an early farrier type). The othe went for $400. 150 Acme that wasn't even anchor worthy. But it was on a 24 by 24 oak post that's probably worth that to the man that bough it. (Art deco furniture maker)

http://www.garnettauctions.com/images/DSC_0211_640x426_.jpg

http://www.garnettauctions.com/images/DSC_0212_426x640_.jpg

I got this email. Goes on the block the 21st. I'll go take a peak at what else'll be there later in the week.

http://www.garnettauctions.com/

More time at the forge, and to start doing work for the public

I could use a grinder to make more sophisticated knives. Both grinding and forging end up with a knife, but I personally see more variation in ground blades. Both end up with a beautiful final product, and both are knives. I've never heard of someone forging a folding knife. Which is what I will end up making eventually. Plus it'll never hurt to have a grinder, when I get into forging large blades I can use it to flatten the tang and grind scale etc.

The 440 I'm used to is mass produced junk. When one of my buddies wants me to sharpen his knife, I sharpen it on the spot with the cutting edge of my Case Trapper. I honestly just don't like stainless.

When I order these blades, they'll have my gauruntee in defect against handle material. and it'll be specifically labeled that the blade isn't of my creation. It was purchased pre-manufactured to high standards

I've forged blades, but I need a grinder, and at the moment forging doesn't seem to be the way to go. My forged knive hold up well unless you use them as pry bars. I've ground file knives of all sorts. Burn some brush and put 5 or 6 files into the fire to de-temper the steel. Grind it to suit my tastes, bring to un-magnetic edge quench. Grind scale off to be sure it didn't crack, temper. Vwola

As the abov title states, I'm planning on ordering a few blade blanks from Jantz. (Damascus blades not junk 440 Stainless)

I'll order 3 of these http://www.knifemaking.com/product-p/ad046.htm?CartID=1

and 1 of these http://www.knifemaking.com/product-p/ad053.htm?CartID=2
I'll use green Micarta, Mesquite, and a Stabilized wood for handles. I figure I could possibly sell them for $300 a peice to cover the cost of buying a KMG. (They'll come with a sheath Kydex or leather.)

I know its Sacrilege, but but twhats yalls opinions?

How much does this stuff cost?

One of my friends brought me a round ball. I thought it was a bearing when he handed it to me, but bearing don't have serial numbers, nor do they have 2 distinct holes above the serial numbers, or rattle when shaked.... I'm very leary to beat on it in fear its an artillery shell momento from a war. No Pics, but the its got 2 holes of slightly different sizes, and the holes appear to be on somehting that treaded into the ball. NUmbers that I could find, are 726K and 128MM with the numbers and holes having a yellow residue in tehm. (Paint not sulfur best I can tell). It appears to also possibly been turned on a lathe to make it more sperical. Any help here?

I have Wayne Goddards $50 Knife Shop, Blades Guide to Making Knives, and a Blacksmithing Book with 25 pages on hardening and tempering. I've made knives by hand using old files and saw blades, but I can't hold anything in my hand with good grip for long periods of time. (Thats what happens when you play peg soccer with a tennis ball and get kicked straight in the end of your pointer and ring fingers. Broke the joint and pushed it back so I can't grasp ridgidly to hold files) I own two 1 by 30 sanders. (They don't work very well, unless your using it to sand excess handle material away) And an ancient 4 by 36 Craftsman. I;ve used the 1 by 30's alot to do blades, its just very slow going

I am from Texas, I take no offense to any analogy or comment. (As long as its English). I gotta make $2,000 before Summer starts. ($1,000 as a debt, and $1,000 for a KMG)

XXXXXXXXX ! I'm not spennding $300-$500 on something to alter belt speed. I'll go with 4 speed pulley setup

I put pen to paper, and which would end up being cheaper? The KMG comes with a flat platen and completely assembled other than a motor. The No-Weld you have to build, probably $300-$400 in wheels, $75 in metal, $200 for a motor and $50 for other parts, plus labor. So... It'd be close to $700 to build a No-Weld. The KMG comes completely ready to go out of the box other than the motor at $750.

Which one is quieter?
Which tracks better?
Which in the long runs more cost effective?

How much to VFD's cost?

Didn't think of that. I just wonder why everythings outa stock. PArdon my ignorance, whats the XXXXXXXXXXX grinder?


Mod note: As I am sure you remember from when you read the Terms of Service located at http://www.iforgeiro...revised-9-2011/ when you joined, that we run a G rated forum. So foul language is edited out and replaced with XXX, We do have minors as members and more than one member can not see well enough to read comfortably so has grandchildren read the forum to him. One does not wish to explain to a small child some of the words that were behind the X's in some posts.

I noticed that about the Wilmont site also. I also read that "Our superior anodized aluminium wheels wear better and the anodization lasts longer". The last time I checked anodization jus tmeant to color the aluminum, it shouldn't effect its wear or use

I wonder if he'd let someone apprentice him?

For now I'll go with the No-Weld. But after I get me input out, I'll start saving for a different grinder, or maybe a better shop? My shop teacher and I discussed the 4 we could find, he told me the no-weld, because thats something "You can make as many of as you want, without using a plasma cutter or torch". He also pointed out that I, at the moment (Its starting into winter, so I have no job to make $ until I have a grinder to make knives) do not have the money to invest in a naked grinder frame, but instead into tubing to make atleast 3 whole grinder frames or buy wheels for one. Also that I had access to a full shop and my classmates "assistance".

Wow, we had a talk about something along these lines today in ag after a kids truck rolled into the wood shops brick wall.... Glad he didn't have a Ranch Hand bumper, there'da been no wall left

Yeah, the EERF is one I'm trying to talk my teacher into cutting out of the peice of plate steel. We talked about which would be cheaper to build and he said the no-weld because its build completely from stuff you have around, and then you can make more with the plans or make parts quickly. (He said make more with a sly smile, which means if I build one, there'll be atleast 3 in the works)