jkmas

Thanks  to everyone for the input.  I did some searching and found " Anvil International" . Big website with lots of stuff (probably expensive).  They have a bunch of products manufactured in the USA.  I am  roughing in the gas valve for a new masonry fireplace that I built for a good customer of mine.  He has the means to pay for USA products in his large addition to his existing home.  I wish all my customers had his frame of mind. (At least I know that all my masonry products usually come from America.)

Thanks again,

Joe Kowalski

Does any Great American out there know where I can purchase gas pipe and fittings (1/2" , 3/4" rigid black etc.) that are made in America?   Any input much appreciated.

I have a restored 50lb moloch.

it is a hot patch clamp indeed. I used to watch my dad fix flats with one. (I  still have it hanging in the shop.)

Years ago I had a Estwing brick hammer.  Most of the masons I worked with never cared for them much.  They could not hold an edge on the chisel end nor on the square head compared to the brick hammers made by Vaughn or plumb (or the local blacksmith, Ralph Frieze, Chgo.).  We were cutting brick and block with them only and not any stone.  Their mash hammers were not too bad though.  The rubber handles tended to slide off with extended use.

I'm still learning up her in the Libertyville Illinois area.  Ive been busy with the masonry work (my Job) latlely but My buddy and me get the forge and power hammer going on the weekends and make all kinds of noise. Maybe we can have you over sometime.

He could be one of the 3 stooges re-incarnated.

Trip, and fall into that hammer . Ouch!

My 2cents worth: Make sure that there is not any heating tubes under the slate.

I have been to a bunch of art shows in the Chicago area. Many times I cant help notice that the "artist" does a better job in explaining their work with fancy words than the effort that he or she has put into the finished piece. I wish my words were that eloquent but they are not . So I will continue to display my work at home. Kudos to the person that has the nerve to show their work in shows. Im glad you represent yourselves. You have got guts and integrity and please do not stop showing your work. If one could touch someones fancy with their work and don't get the acclimades from the jury, the mission was still accomplished.

I have a 50lb moloch. I put a nylon strap on for a brake. I only have a tension spring (with bolt for adjustment) on the right and left side with no treadle connection.
It has just enough tension to stop the motion. The clutch lining (rear open wheel type) is new and would make the hammer free wheel too much without the brake. It work fine now.

I also forgot to add that the chimney height rule of thumb: 2' higher than 10' level away from where touching roof or 3 ' higher when intersecting roof ridge does not guarantee a successful chimney draw. this rule of thumb is to satisfy the building codes. For instance many people have a one story addition added to a two story structure. Then the new fireplace chimney is constructed according to code. The next problem is a smoking fireplace. Everything was built according to the plans and the building code However, they did not take into condsideration the the hieght of the existing 2 story chimney as well as large open staircases that can effect the dinamics of air flow.

Kendall I have over 30 years of experience with the construction of chimneys. However 99% of these chimneys are of masonry construction. I have a home built forge table with a centaur forge firepot. My side draft hood is constructed from a dissambled water tank and re-shaped into a cone with a 8 " round stove pipe. I do rarely get some light puffs of smoke when starting a coal fire but most of the time i have no problem with a good strong draft. For the size of my forge the 8 " will suffice. It does not hurt to have a larger diameter pipe. However cost and availlability at the time was an issue. My garage is kept at a minimum 62 degrees (northern Illiniois winter). Even very strong winds hardly have and effect on the draft.
Some questions? Is the spark screen that terminates on top of the flue too low to the top of the last pipe? In other words is there too much restriction at the top. Make sure that the termination is at least the same diameter of the pipe (It can be wider but never narrower never reduce diameteter below what you start with.). Is there a high efficient furnace nearby in the same structure as your forge? On some of my fireplace jobs over the years, I made a point to install a wider pipe or at least a higher pipe than the architects planned called for because of the "stack effect" of existing taller chimneys and the negative pressure created by cold air returns , tight insulated walls and new windows. In other words, some of these factors can pull air down form the smaller or lower flue.
It is Ok to have slight bends in the flue as long as they are not tighter than 45degrees. I have approx. 14 lin, feet of 8" pipe . with two 45degree fittings. The only other question I have for you is if the side blast tuyer is to strong. It may be blowing the smoke out beyond the hoods capability.

Maybe I missed something? Where was the screw on valve cover? Was the tank on its side (raw acetone)? My supplier won't put in an enclosed vehicle and will not let you leave the yard with the tank unsecured.

must be rough on the bedsheets.

what would happen if a stack of coins where clamped together and sat into a swage of matching circumference and smacked on stop?

I have used just about all the familiar brands (mostly for the masonry industry). I like metabo the best.
The variable speed is handy as well.

Future great Americans. We need more and more. My wife is a school teacher. She knows it can be tough to get a childs participation. Congradualations to You.

In my line of trade / business (brick, stone mason, stone carver,32yrs) I have been accused of being an artist although I've never called my self and artist. But, I like to use the word "ARTISAN". It covers a hole lot of things and does not sound to big headed.

It almost passes for art.

What would be a reasonble price for that machine?

Same goes her in Chicago northern suburbs. The scrap yard down the road from me will buy your scrap for cash. But, they will not let you take anything out. They get plenty of beat up pickup truck fulls all day from guys that solely drive around and pick up scrap from curbsides and dumpsters. (I lost some old wrought from a railing job in a very exclusive nighborhood that way.) If i put anything that I cant use at the curb on the night before garbage day (Sunday night) it is gone in no time. Usually two or three trucks driving around looking for scrap.

I have been using a plastic tank that holds salt for a water softener. It is tall and narrow enough to not take up too much room, but it holds plenty of water and is great for long objects. It sits on a small dolly with wheels if I need to roll it out of the way for whatever reason. It dose not look very authentic but was free and practical.

WOW! Never enough tools and never enough garage space. That's what I tell my wife and friends.

I use McNichols.
They are a little cheeper than McMaster Carr.

Their homepage

The stuff I use

They have live internet chat that is very helpful for figureing out exactly what you need, they'll give you a price quote via email, shipping is good, you can get cut to size, and when I ordered they gave me about 6 inches extra! I'd definately recommend them!

Dave