David Dix
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Posts posted by David Dix
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I also get 7 free rotations after letting go of the handle from about 30 rpm.
Lucky! -
What's your total gear ratio on that?
It's about 25:1 final ratio -
if you want to see the device in action, i have videos posted of it on facebook. Add me as a friend if interested: www.facebook.com/davidbdix
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That's some frankenblower! I would think it'd produce way more air than you need for a fire that size. If it seems like too much work right now, you might be able to get away with simplifying it a little and not gearing it up quite so far.
hahahaha frankenblower. That's hilarious. When you said "not gearing it up quite so far", were you referring to the length of the chains? What I meant by too much work is that I'm still turning the pedal drive too many times. If I added more to the whole gear train, the torque required to turn one revolution would be WAY too much. It's pretty okay now the way it is. I suppose if I made some type of worm gear, I could get the same crazy RPM's as a "real" blower. That may be fun to experiment with. That's all this was - an experiment. Fortunately it worked out with positive results. -
Thanks for the great replies. I appreciate and welcome all comments, both negative and positive.
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thanks for all the great replies everyone!
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I think you're right about losing a lot of heat in that street rail. Until I start my new job I can't afford a blacksmith's anvil. Hopefully soon.
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What about where I should be ordering. So far, I haven't really found a location in St. Louis. (I live in Collinsville, Illinois). That makes me think I need to order online. Recommended sites?
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what about thickness?
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I FINALLY took off the old hand pump operating mechanism to my forge and made a new mechanism. Since I'm out of work at the moment, I decided to use a bunch of old bicycle parts (gears and chains) to make my own hand-crank mechanism. It works like a champ! The mechanism is split into 3 main sections: gear train under the forge, middle gear train, and the pedal drive gear. The gear ratios from the driver to the blower are: 3.42:1, 2:1, 2:1, 2.33:1. I think the final ratio is about 25:1 or somewhere in there. It really flies, but I feel like I am still doing too much work. When I get something worth trading, or enough money, I'd like to buy a nice used buffalo blower. Then again, this forge is a small rivet forge. I might just hold on tight until I can find a good deal on a forge and blower. We'll see. Here's some photos:
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I'm having a hard time finding scrap that holds heat. All I have to work with is a bunch of rebar and railroad spikes. The rebar can't hold heat at all, and the spikes aren't going to be able to do what I want them to do. My purpose is to make some decorative things (some for my blaket chest I am building), as well as some candleholders, quite a few pairs of tongs, some wall hooks, and a few other things. Since I have not worked with steel bars, I could really use some information on what type I should order, thickness, and length. Also, I am just about to start working a new job, so my wallet is not loaded at the moment. I'm looking for good material to work with with decent prices. Should I also buy rivets for the tongs I wish to make? I don't have any rivets yet. Thanks!
David Dix -
So! This is going to be your FIRST fire in your new forge !! That is a sacred moment, without fire, we smiths could do very little. Light up reverently, idealy with a magnifying glass focus the suns eays at high noon, stare straight up till the sun moves into position, take note of the light it is welding heat, with clouds of insence, brass finger chimes wielded by a belly dancer apprentice. Focus the spot of heat onto tinder blow it into flame symbolically blowing LIFE! into the fire. go from wood to coal and when you have a roaring fire, making lots of coke. Rake out a measure of your first fire's coke and use a lump to help start any subsequent fires you might wish to light. Actually always save coke from every fire to light up again. Hum um.
Rofl, I wish the first moment was that grand and exciting. It was more like this: Standing out in 80% humidity, clothes completely soaked with sweat, getting eaten alive my mosquitos, back aching from pulling a muscle due to carrying the forge, arms are getting tired from pumping +300 times to just get the coals to stay lit, and FINALLY getting a forge heat, the brand new leather belt starts slipping because it had stretched out. that's about how it went. Fortunately, I went back later for a second go. I was able to get some rebar up to a forge heat and banged the heck out of it. lol. That made me SO happy. -
Thanks guys.
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Greetings! I like the prayer list.
Could you please remember my cousin Jim Zimmer in Texas. He's going through the ends of a divorce, and his wife is moving out this week. Please pray that his new life brings faith and hope.
Could you also please pray for our ex-pastor Jim Brinkman in Collinsville, Illinois who just stepped down yesterday at church because a few people complained about him. He was just ordained as a minister, and now feels down in the dumps. It's sometimes hard to stay in good spirits when a few people disagree with what you believe in. Please pray for some guidance and comfort in his life.
Thank you!
David Dix -
what are you waiting for? get to forging, young man!
haha stewart....the "ring" i made with the cement/sand mixture was kinda thick. I was asking because I don't know if it had cured long enough. If you think it's ready im going to fire up then! WOOHOO! -
So it's been 24 hours since I made the cement/sand mixture and set it. Is that long enough where I can do the first fire? Or should I wait another 24 hours? I get a little anxious to get going sometimes.....
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I have a rivet forge exactly like that. Every piece on mine that is cast, has a diffrent part number cast into it but I've never found a name. The wind break is missing on mine, and I have made a new twyere for it. I made the drive belt out of a piece of conveyor belting. Cut it to width and length, and sew it together with heavy waxed thread. Look at at the shaft that goes through the big wheele. The brackets at each end will slide up and down the leg. Put them in the highest position possible before you measure the length of the belt. Exspecially if you use leather. As the belt stretches you can slide the shaft down to keep it tight. I don't use it very often but it is handy and portable.
THanks! I went to St Louis today at Tandy Leather Shop and bought a 3/4 in. strip. They didn't have 7/8. Jerks! haha. I'll use your advice on the wheel. I didn't catch that when I was admiring the look of a free forge. ...really lucked out with that one. I'm hoping the same happens with an anvil, but I doubt it. -
I'm glad to see you are so committed. (some of us need to be committed)
Nice job David.
Mark <><
Yes sir! I should have been committed a LONG time ago. I have so many different hobbies and interests, I can't sit still for very long, resulting in "they" (not them, but they) not being able to catch me yet. Bwahahaha! -
Thanks guys. appreciate it.
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That will do just fine. I would have not made the ring, but sloped it evenly to the edge.
well, i just ran outside to see if i could take out the ring. It's already getting pretty tough, so I'm gonna keep it the way it is. Down the road if it turns out to be a really bad idea, I'll just hammer it out and do it over. -
I'm gonna try something else too. My first photos I had downloaded to my computer, then downloaded onto my post. They were fine. It seems that only when I download straight from the camera they come out big.
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I'm downloading my photos directly from my digital camera, and they are coming out HUGE!! how can i avoid it?
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What steel bars should I order?
in Blacksmithing, General Discussion
Posted
Concerning the rebar no holding heat: what I meant was the rebar cools WAY too fast. I also learned not to put a hammer to it when it's black heat. I also found that yes, quenching rebar leads to cracking and/or shattering. I was told about that, but had forgotten. It doesn't matter because I was just practicing anyway.