Kenny O

Don't forget to weld a "button" for your hammer to hit, think a 2 inch cube or cylinder or whatever shape you have in your scrap bin. This will prevent the struck end of the die from deforming as much and as quick.

Phil

Thanks Phil, that wasn't on my agenda.

Case hardening will give a harder, wear resistant working surface where it is treated

One more question... are these( carborizing compounds) made for friction or impact? I'm sure it would help either way, Just beating this horse some more

Thanks

Yes... case hardening. Is there a better, and best, or are they all pretty similar?
I have heard Kasenit mentioned more. I was given a bunch of cold rolled, made this blacksmith helper out of it.
What is its specific usage?

Thanks

I have made some dies from CRS cuz it's all I had, Can it be tempered to function. I have taken it to non magnetic and quenched it in water. would it be senseless to continue?

Here are the dies in place before hardening

Thanks for the help

Of course you now have to buy drinks for everyone here!

KOOL-AID for the house!
(except for your avatar, it looks like she had to much already)

WAY TO GO KENNY!

Now I'm thinking it must've been a 4,000% profit generator! Man oh MAN I've gotta keep my eyes open for one!
Good for you, seriously.

Frosty the Lucky

Now my wife is not so concerned about my auction, yard sale obsession.


"...what the heck are you going to do with that thing, it weighs a ton?"

It really only weighed 70#s.

(What is an Autocollimator anyway?)

Thanks Frosty


ps
My daughter lives in Anchorage, I am going up for a visit soon. My first visit to Alaska.
She manages a water-park. A strange place for a H20-park.

I sent a picture to Nikon and the identified it as a...

" ...Type 3 stand for Nikon Autocollimator "

Fallow-up:
The only certified dealer of these things in the U.S. is in So, Ca., they offered me $400.00 unseen. Needless to say, I shipped it, and they paid for shipping!
Not a bad return on my investment.

"The check is in the mail"

2dogs; of course they can be forged! Or how about a hardy tool from them where a short heavy piece is forged to fit the hardy and the other end forged to fit the eye of one of the hammers with say 4 inches of shaft between them.

This is easiest if you have a substantial anvil so not so much forging to do with a large hardy hole.

Sort of like a stake anvil?.
I was thinking of cutting one right in half through the eye and end up with two half round bottom swedge, then fit em to the hardy.

And don't forget that a hardy hole may not be a perfect square!

Yes, I discovered that, but thanks for that bit of datum that I have heard no where else. I have two anvils one Hardy hole is 7/8
one is 15/16, when I formed a hardy in each, I looked at the shapes, one looked more like a parallelogram.
Maybe I'm just gullible, I assumed the holes would be equilateral.

Wow what a great haul of RR stuff! Are you thinking of making a stake anvil from a RR spike hammer? I did and like it a lot! Some great anvils in that lot too---I used a busted knuckle for an anvil in my "under $25" smithy.

Good idea for one of the hammers, I am going to cut the rough edge off of the broken coupler and put it on end, for an eleven inch square anvil. The other end of the coupler rings like a bell, I probably wont hit that much with a hammer. The 200 pounder with the 12'' through hole I am not sure what purpose it would best serve, maybe cut it in half, and the sheeps foot, well I guess I could make a sculpture of a three legged sheep.Of the slices of rail I have seen hardys made.
I have been making more tools lately than anything else. Any suggestions would be nice, what else can be made of those hammers? could they be forged?

2Dogs, I know it can take 11 hours to drive across So. Orygun, but if you're within 3 hrs from Klamath Falls, Get aholt of me a few days in advance, I'll get the local boys in a bunch and we can do an afternoon of bottom tool whacking. I've got blocks in 1 inch, 15/16, 7/8, and 3/4 if I remember right. It's actually a fair bit of a good time, we all got pretty good at it when we did the CBA conference workshop 3yrs back or so. Bring a pile of beer, the rest is on me. 541-892-2208
mike h

Thanks for the generous offer, I haven't found anyone around Medford to hammer with. There was someone in Central Point but I don't remember his name. I would enjoy hookin up for some forging.

I had to have this. It looks as if it might be for use with a power hammer. Is it incomplete?

An acquaintance at BNSF let me go through the scrap box. Some of it is from a three engine collission. The pry bars are called a "sheep's foot ", or a "dromedary toe" by some.
In my area of Az., they are Navajo named, thus the sheep origin.

I just Googled Timberlock screws, I haven't heard of them. So, they are stronger than a lag screw of the same diameter?

putting it on a stump would be good if the screws wont break .

I have taken on a project from Mark Asperys book Vol l, I needed to make some bottom tools, but I 'm sure I would end up crackin my anvil if I tried to do any heavy smooshing, it's only a 125# Trenton. Anyhow here are the steps I took and where I am today


What I am unsure about is the stand, should It be a stump, or should I fab up a tripod of sorts. do I drill holes to mount it, or have it fasten without putting holes in it? If I make the stand of steel do I weld it to the stand?
Too many options.

In case anyone wants to know the plate is 6" x 7" x 1.50" thick , the Hardy hole is 0.9375" (15/16").

2 dogs,
I been a smithin four 4+ years now, and for some reason, I haven't gotten around to one of those yet, you just motivated me to give it a go, well done, and the ideas of quenching the corners for different sounds??? cooooool, gotta get er done now!!

Thanks for the feedback. It is good incentive, I have been thinkin about what kind of hanger to make for it.
What I have learned , in the short time I have been smithing, is that I spend more time making tools
than actually producing the product. I guess as I progress, I will accumulate the basics.

Just an observation.

The height of the tuyere and the floor of the pan are incongruous, in the original version, what would fill the space, refractory, bricks?
I am going to put some S.S. sheet in the bottom, where it has rusted through, and some new hardware here & there.

Nice looking bell! How does it sound?
As far as the stricker, If 3/4s what you got, then use it Or make it smaller? Tapered with a handle in wood?

Thanks! It actually sounds way better than expected for mild steel. The wood mixed media thing sounds like a deal!
I made many feet of bar joist for a bowling alley in Snowflake AZ, I have about 50 foot of 3/4 round (remnant) that is paid for.
Forging it (3/4) in my forge is harder than I guessed. I have a coal forge , but it needs work, that's another topic.

Always do drawings and engineering before any job, it saves time, $ ,and lots of cuss words that could be used for injuries. Take this cart for instance, can you notice the discrepancy?

Without the forge on the cart the bottle tips it over, the solution ; I will put a wheel under it, the bottle rack.

I am not done yet . Painting is a drag, but necessary in Oregon.
Brush is better than spray , for myself.

more design suggestions welcome.

I was looking for the "Correct formula" for the proper Triangle bell, well I just winged it. I would not recommend using 3/4 round.
I used major propane. I have yet to make the clanger.or the decorative hanger. Should the hanger be made of 3/4 as well?
maybe I will make it out of barbed wire that's easy to bend.Thanks for checkin' it out

I don't think I have seen one go that high before, the camera man lost track of it!!!
LOL

Unfortunately there's a commercial first...

http://youtu.be/2KIqOmeHCU4

It works fine for now. I will continue to seek out parts, that's my hobby: seeking.

M & S had lots of picks and shovels, no Left Hand anything. McMaster Carr had the heavy duty nut, but I had to buy 6. So.. I am using a standard .625 nut, and I found a two collars from an angle grinder.
The two sides have different weighted hardware, that was not my goal, but It will work fine, it might wobble a little goin' down the road though


Thanks for all the input.

Mcmaster-Carr has no flanges, and I am not done searching the online catalogue for the nut, I got side tracked. I have not yet earned a hard copy catalogue of my own.
I will search out a repair shop, good idea.

Thank you for the help

Hello All,
I found a free bench grinder...(yea right, free)..But the left side needs the flanged collars and spindle nut 0.625 LH, 11tpi.
The spindle nut is a beefier unit than a standard nut.
What is a good resource for parts, I have been unsuccessful at locating them?
thanks for your help.