Kenny O

I have been trying to find the answer to your question as well. I have built a few Porter burners, very labor intensive I was going to build a frosty "T" burner because of its ease but I don't know the specs on consumption.

Frosty;   Do you happen to know the difference in cunsumption of fuel between the "T" burner and the Porter burner? I have built a few porter burner's and it is rather laborious. I used no s.s. flare(12:1) on my last burner because it will be in a confined space just a straight iron pipe.

 

I tried to upload a video but it wont let me

what a joke calling that any form of blade steel :( MAYBE as a layer for a pattern weld for looks if desperate,  not for a real blades edge tho. basic physics can not be changed.   sorry.  We covered carbon levels in the knife section, and most real blade makers suggest over 0.50 carbon. 

Yes I was under the impression that 4340 was for impact tools, referring to Mr Brazeal's tool topic. I will take my questions to the appropriate thread:) thank you all for the heads up!!

 

And thank you John for the hammer history!

Kenny O

I would forge weld up a piece of the cable and water quench and see if it cracks that will give you some good info. I have made a lot of cable knives. I like at least 5/8 diameter so I don't have to fold it for more mass. If you fold it a lot of the time the pattern gets too fine for what I like, I have had some 3/4 cable that wouldn't harden much in oil but got hard in water so to me that makes it medium carbon at best.

I admit I have been intimidated about trying to weld cable, Thank you for this. By "crack" do you mean from bending, or from just submerging in the water?

Gergely,

Thank you for the link, it is a valuable site, It did not show in my search.       

 

              Nice found with that 4340. 

                http://www.zknives.c...rt.php?snm=4340

                says: "low alloy tool steel, relatively high toughness, suitable for large knives"

 

                 C: 0.38-0.43, Cr: 0.70-0.90, Mo: 0.20-0.30, Ni: 1.65-2.00, Mn 0.60-0.80, Si: 0.15-0.30

 

 

And the odd hammer

" you can't tell carbon content by looking..."

I am aware of that, but thanks for pointing it out, assuming the wire rope steps are not under more than 500 lbs. of tension, compression, or sheer I was questioning their quality :)

 

"What did the spark test or heat and quench test tell you about the cable..." 

  Havent gone there yet, tomorrow I will figure it out.

 

Just makin conversation :)

4340 ffrom the scrap yard for 50cents/lb. about 50 ft of it, 1'x 3 ft sections.The research I have done mentions it is used for landing gear, and these have holes drilled in each end. kind of looks like an axle. What could be made of these?

And the cable I think was intended for steps on heavy equipment?

Would the cable be worthy of a knife?

 

I also picked up an odd looking hammer, not for iron I'm sure

I saw a video where the gentleman converted an old drill-press like the one you have Alan, into a twister,

My twister was made from a 50 to one gear reducer that weghs 250-300lbs. I can't tell for sure what the reduction  is on yours or how big it is but it needs to be big  for twisting. The output shaft on yours I'd guess is 2-21/2'' which is about right. Mine will twist 1.25 square cold and much larger hot. I just use 90wt gear lube in mine and it works well.

My guess is it weighs near 300.. My wife could barely lift it off the trailer...

What size motor do you use to drive your twister and how is it attached, would a rubber coupling direct drive work? should I move this interigation to another place/topic? don't want to monopolize the space

 

Cool finds. Almost looks like Railroad initials on the hook.

I found it not to far from a BNSF scrap yard.

 

My guess is that the two speeds refers to input and out put, I may be confusing speed with ratio.

 

Actually the gear reducer is a 2 speed, 50 rpm and believe it or not 1 rpm. That is some crazy torque though, interestingly it makes no mention of the input speed, which in reality would determine the actual output speed. 

 

Good score. "600" weight oil (140 w Gear Lube) is still available. 

Since in addition to a bronze worm it likely has plain bronze bearings definitely use the 600 w (140 w gear lube) NOT 80-90 w gear lube. 

 

Too bad the hp was left blank but with such a high numerical ratio, 1 hp max would twist anything and not risk the gear box integrity too much. 

Good find, replacement value today would be thousands. 

Thanks for the correct oil datum, I will open it up and see what it looks like inside, or maybe not...

Thousands? my goodness...

I rescued this from the the trash, I think this would work for twisting stock cold. I just need to figure a way to secure the metal at both ends. and make a table for it.

It reccomends to use gargoyle oil, I dont think there are any 'round here? I haven't started looking for 600 w oil yet, any suggestions

 

The hook I found in the desert near Seligman AZ, I think it was forged, but I am not sure. There was/is many mines in the area.

Hello... I have a Riland cut60 with less than 2 hours of usage. It was in storage for 2 years.

Now it it does not work, the fan doesnt spin etc. any one know of a source for troubleshooting steps.

I have some electronics experience, of the 101 variety.

 

Thanks to all

Great buy--- You might find the following site helpful.. http://web.archive.org/web/20070519172426/http://home.woh.rr.com/rcbattelle/bandsaw.shtml

 

 They are still in business ( http://doallsawing.com/pages.aspx?idpage=1 ) and parts can be had from other sources as well... BTW you stole that saw...LOL...ENJOY it !

Sweet restoration that guy did, he claimed the table alone weighed near 200lbs., maybe I should start a new thread somewhere. I was called and they said they found the blade welder... for 20 more dollars I could have it. 

I was mistaken on the weight, the gentlemen on the reoration web site caimed it was 1000 to 1200 #s

Picked this up at an auction for.........Wait for it.....$40. The motor works, it alone is worth the 40 dollars. It was so cheap cuz someone took the Job-Selector. I wonder if they are still available.

Airforce property, Model ML, I have no idea how old it is. My wife was so happy to get it off the trailer without tearing the trusses down, that thing must weigh 500#s

What about fire retardence? that stuff looks like it would burn fast.

 

 

Nevermind, I read your earlier post about putting up tin in certain areas.

Thanks for the tips, @VaughnT... I have not yet made a stand for that anvil the present stand was formed to fit the bottom of that Trenton anvil. The other anvil has a thinner face and fatter bick/horn. Made in Sweden. I do plan to have both working .  I will sure post progress. I must decide where to put the chimney, most likely out the side. turning the forge is a good observation, then I would need to move it more centrally, and exhaust out the roof?  The hood will be a fun project.

I have been drawn away from the shop to get ready for the irrigation season, they will be opening the canal monday.

 This dirt space is for my stuff ,10'X24'. The walls will be framed, and insulated...at some point.

I guess I will have to have a hood, and exhaust. I have a gas forge I slapped together. That will be used til I get some ventalation.

This coal forge needs some work as well, lined with sheet, and insulated?

I have not done much coal forging, and I have about 300 lbs of fines. They have turned out hard for me to keep burning.

 

Advise is gladly accepted.

What did you do about the glare from the corregated metal?

My shop has  on the inside walls with paperless insulation behind it. My forge (coal) and my wood stove sit about two feet away from the wall, but I have also placed cement board between the stovve/forge and the wall.

Is this a forge, Looks like something out of ben Hur???
it's about 14 in. across the top, about 8 in. tall, and the base is about 7 in. across.
Made in England

I snatched up this hammer up at the local St. Vincent 2nd hand store for $1.50, it is huge, It's a 14 lb. straight pein. It's stamped with "Comstock Warranted Cast Steel"

I am going to teach my wife to swing it, she'll be my striker.

I cant find any data via Google. I usually try to find historical relevance when I pick up older tools ( pre...use safety goggles, Taiwan, Japan, Hecho in China etc...)

I will take a photo later if any one wants a visual.
Thanks

Kenny O

Nice, clean, pleasing to look at, good amount of texture on the feet, any more would have thrown it off, of course this is only opinion not fact.

Thank you for sharing.

Very nice, so is it a mare or a gelding, doesn't matter? I showed my wife , she is the equine fanatic, and now she wants one, but a Quarter Horse. Thanks again for posting the process!

Thanks for the kind words, you help motivate me!

Kenny O

Not a fish plant, hanger... but a fish, plant hanger. This was fun, drifting the hole was a challenge, but it's close enough.

The first machine class I endeavored upon, our eyes were directed to a hole in the wall where the sun shone through;

"That's where the chuck key went through the wall, if any one is seen with there hand off the key while the key is in the chuck, you are done for the day"



That hole was about 50' from its launch point, it was a sheet metal building, but it still was impressive. So much can go wrong, so fast.

Eternal vigilance is my friend.

"Farrier Lance Corporal of the Horse Chris McCabe fashions a horse shoe during a media event at the Household Cavalry Mounted Regiment'sHyde Park barracks in London, Friday, April, 15, 2011. The mounted regiment will provide close the escort for the major members of the British Royal family during the upcoming Royal Wedding of Prince William and Kate Middleton. (APPhoto/Alastair Grant) #"http://gizmodo.com/#...y-royal-wedding